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  2. What are you feeding? You may need to move put a higher mineral content food into rotation, that can sometimes help with coloration like this.
  3. Today
  4. Hi @bruce7267ad! Both cherries and blue velvets are neocaridina shrimp, so they have the same parameter requirements. Neocaridina are generally pretty hardy and tolerant of a wide range of water parameters, but they tend to like harder/more alkaline water. I keep my neocaridina in water with GH about 10 and KH about 3-4. I don't use a heater or anything like that in their tanks so my water temperature fluctuates based on room temp, but I'd guess it's probably between 68-75 depending on the weather and time of year. The only thing I measure is GH and KH as I've found those are the most important parameters aside from ammonia, nitrate and nitrite. Above all I find shrimps in general like consistency, so as long as you give them time to adapt to your water using a gradual acclimation process (I always drip acclimate my shrimp) and keep water parameters relatively consistent with water changes they should do fine 👍 Hope that helps!
  5. Hi @NSinvert! Just to clarify, when you say you're changing your water once a week with RO water, are you changing the water with pure RO water or are you remineralizing first before changing? If so, how long have you had the shrimp? Just like with people and other pets like dogs and cats, as animals age they tend to show visible signs of these changes. If you were to look at an older dog vs. a young adult dog the younger dog, if healthy, would have a nicer hair coat, much more vibrant coat colors, and healthier looking skin, compared to an older dog who may have more dull coat colors, more skin problems, etc. They may both be healthy but due to the aging process they look visibly different. Shrimp can be like this as well. The nicest shrimps are usually the ones that have just reached mature size, so they're in their breeding prime and generally show their best colors. Your parameters seem fine and it sounds like you've had this schedule (feeding, water changes, etc.) going on for a while, so if you've been consistent I don't think they'd suddenly start becoming stressed unless you added/changed something recently. It also seems like you have experience keeping shrimps, so my guess is that they're just aging and losing color because of that. But if you can think of anything that changed recently that might be helpful to identify why it may be happening. Hope this helps!
  6. Ive noticed that some of my crystals are losing color. My ph6 gh5 no ammonia0 nitrates0 nitrites0 I feed 1x a day only because I feel like my snails eat way more then my shrimp.....not because my shrimp don’t try to eat. I do water changes 1x a week with ro water about 15%
  7. Yesterday
  8. So I'm looking for the water parameters for both of these species and also their water temps. Thanks guys
  9. Last week
  10. @FaelynK yup! Prime has sodium thiosulfate in it which deactivates both chlorines and chloramines so I'd definitely suggest using that if possible. Aeration only gets rid of chlorine but not chloramine so that's a good point that you brought up. Yea the neos these days, especially cherries, are way more durable and adaptable than they were several years ago with the recent popularity and rise of the shrimp hobby and with cherries being the most available and well-known of the dwarf shrimps. If you're able to, I suggest finding a local or USA breeder as they're generally more healthy and can adapt best to the changes of being introduced to a different tank. RO water with remineralizers definitely aren't necessary for neos, but generally highly recommended.
  11. @JSakThanks. I use bottled DI for my turtle tank (with ghosts in it) as of now but I was hoping I could switch to tap for the shrimp and skip remineralizing. Not sure if my county uses chlorine or chlorimide, I heard Prime takes care of both? I know of a couple other people in the same county that keep neo tanks, but they use RO water as they have other large aquariums and are on well water that is massively out of parameter. I'm one of the "lucky" ones hooked up to city water. Checked tracking and looks like the test kits are slated to be here around Wednesday. I'm chomping the bit to get started, I know I've got a long cycle and grow in ahead of me before I even see a shrimpie!
  12. @FaelynK Welcome to this wonderfully addicting hobby! In my personal experience, I don't think I've measured the pH of the water in my shrimp tanks since I first started in the hobby about 5 years or so ago. For me, the most important parameters I measure are GH and KH, but I see that you're waiting for them to come in the mail so once those come in you can test your water. The only concern I have with tap water is chlorine, which is shrimps don't tolerate very well. To avoid any possible issues with chlorine you can either buy a dechlorinator (I use Prime) or you can let your water sit and aerate for a day or so (oxygenation slowly gets rid of any chlorine in the water). I'll always recommend RO water with shrimp remineralizer because you don't have to worry about what the water treatment plant puts in the tap water and because you get to know exactly what you're putting into the water and you get to keep water parameters relatively consistent. I go to the lengths of going to Walmart once a month to fill up 4 or 5 of the five gallon water jugs with their RO water since I live in an apartment complex so I can't use a RO unit. It's a lot of work to move the jugs but I feel like it's worth the effort. That being said, neos are generally pretty hardy and can adapt fairly well to a range of parameters. If you can post your GH and KH once you get your test kit I think that'd tell a lot more about if your water's suitable for shrimp. Glad you're taking the time to do research! I find patience one of the most important and difficult aspects of a successful shrimp keeper.
  13. Hey all, Just getting started in the shrimpie adventure and figured I'd start right. Tested the parameters of my tap water and got a fairly surprising result. 0ppm (from what I can tell) of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate but a whopping 8.6 pH! I don't have a GH or KH test kit yet (they're in the mail) or a TDS pen, so I have no idea for those numbers. Can I keep neos in that pH range though or am I gonna need to invest in RO water? Or could I perhaps use substrate to temper the pH?
  14. FaelynK

    Howdy all!

    Hello everybody! Fae here and I'm new to the shrimpie scene. I've currently got a turtle tank with mystery snails and ghost shrimp exercise/snack buddies. I actually like watching the shrimp better than the turtle! Ended up getting a batch of ghost shrimp from the local chain store that looked odd and fell down the Google rabbit hole trying to find out what exactly they were. Discovered neos and poof! I now know what I want to do with the old tank the turtle outgrew. Hope I don't ask too many questions and I look forward to my shrimpie adventure!
  15. Crashes? Why would it crash? You need to keep feeding the tank (give it an ammonia source) once it's cycled. I like to put snails in my shrimp tanks to keep the bioload up, shrimp quite honestly have little to no bioload so having something in there with them helps to keep things stable.
  16. Thanks alot! So as soon as I see my tank is cycled how long do I have before it crashes to put shrimp in? Also any shrimp food can build biofilm?
  17. Hi. I bought three new shrimp today in the hope i'd get at least 1 male for my 3 existing blue shrimp. It seems I was given a blue shrimp, a black carbon rili and I'm not sure about the one in the picture attached - it has white eyes and mottled dark blue and white colouration. What kind is it? Are they all compatible when it comes to breeding? I've also attached a pic of the carbon rili and one of my blue shrimp. I should have checked the bag before leaving the shop but trusted the shopkeeper to give me three standard blue shrimp. I like what I've been given but hope they can breed. Thanks Heather
  18. I've found that one of the best ways to create biofilm quickly is with a bacteria/enzyme bag while you're cycling the tank. Within a week you've got a healthy amount of biofilm in the tank, but this can't be done if there are inhabitants in the tank. (And if you're cycling, you shouldn't have any inhabitants in the tank anyway.) Aside from that, any bacterial supplement (Dead Shrimp Powder, Aqualex Enzyme, etc...) or powdered food will help to build biofilm. And finally, time... ...given time your tank will age and biofilm will naturally be created.
  19. So I'm new to shrimp keeping and I keep hearing about bio film, and I'm curious about what products I can buy to create this. Thanks guys.
  20. Hi I'm wondering how these would breed and what the outcomes would be? I'm asking because I have a mixed Taiwan bee tank and couple months back a supplier sent me red pintos and not red wines I asked for.
  21. days

    DemShrimps

    Sad to say but this morning one of my shrimps went kamikaze, must of jumped out the tank over night. I do have a lid on this tank but there's a gab for the lily pipe. Oh well, circle of life as new life begins the old ones fade away. Week 1 babies, looks like most of them were in hiding. Also second female was still holding until the next day, so about 20+ babies.
  22. Earlier
  23. Got ahold of Po Nguyen a few weeks ago asking about sulawesi food. Nice guy that a lot of people have good things to say about shrimp/products of his. Thanks for the recommendation on the powdered food. Hopefully it will be here soon. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  24. It's a fine powder, but has some larger granules in it as well. I have their nutridust and utilize it weekly. IME worms and seed shrimp generally come from overfeeding or appear in a new tank as part of the natural cycle of things, they hang out for a while and then the population decreases. I've never had them stay or persist in a tank for very long.
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