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  1. 11 likes
    I know us shrimpers use this word all the time without really understanding what it is or how it's produced. Here is a small snippet from an article which was put together by Byron in 2011 which explains it well. I hope he doesn't mind me sharring it here. Afterall we can all benefit from each other. Or, as Soothing always says " We all need to help each other my friend." "Heterotrophic bacteria cannot synthesize their own food so they need organic material such as fish waste, dead bacteria, fish and plant matter, etc., and while some are aerobic, many are facultative anaerobes, meaning that they can survive in either the presence or absence of free oxygen. Anaerobes are organisms that do not require free oxygen for growth. This has significant consequences in aquaria." "The nitrogen cycle bacteria in aquaria are lithotrophic; the word comes from the Greek lithos [= rock] and troph [= consumer], so literally it means “rock eater.” Realistically, it means these bacteria colonize surfaces. The scientific processes that cause this may most simply be described as the bacteria being pulled from the water by several actions occurring on the surfaces. Bacteria are sticky; they exude protein coatings that allow them to build up into a slimy film that we term a biofilm. These also attract and bind fungi and algae. Snails, shrimp and fish seen grazing these mats are feeding on the countless microscopic creatures and algae that live there. But this is not their most important function; these biofilms are absolutely essential to a healthy aquarium because of the bacteria they contain."
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    Hello. I've been frequenting this forum for almost a year now, but haven't posted much, so I'd like to use this opportunity to introduce myself along with my newest tank. Keeping RCS and befriending a fellow shrimp hobbyist was my gateway into this rewarding hobby. Shrimp-keeping was an extension of my planted-tank hobby, and it quickly became my new focus. In the past I had kept RCS in my high-tech scapes and didn't really cater to their care, so I was still fairly new to shrimp-keeping when I finally decided to get some CRS. I was very, and still am, set on keeping only caridinas. From perfecting the water chemistry to figuring out all the little quirks in maintenance, learning how to care for caridinas was very challenging. Shortly after getting down the basics of caridina care, I put together a shrimp rack. I put together the rack roughly half a year ago. More recently, I got my hands on a Dennerle Scaper's tank and decided to turn it into a display tank with red TBs. I've generally been keeping my shrimp tanks fairly simple so that maintenance and netting shrimp would be easier, but with this new tank, I wanted to do something different. Which brings me to the... Display Tank Project Specifications: Hardware Dennerle Scaper’s Tank Complete 35L LED (~9 gallons) Nano Power LED 5.0 (included with the tank) Eheim 2213 Canister CHOICE Bubbler Substrate Brightwell FlorinVolcanit Planted Substrate Extra-Fine (Rio Escuro) CaribSea Super Naturals Hardscape Lava Rock Spiderwood Flora Java fern Needle-leaf Java Fern Anubias nana petite Bolbitis Bolbitis mini/micro Buce 'Silver Powder Thai moss Weeping moss Water RO+DI Bee Shrimp Mineral GH+ This is the 'Day 3' (14 March 2017) photo of the tank. Water parameters: pH: 6.8 TDS: 149 GH: 7 KH: 2 Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate: 0ppm You can't see it in the picture, but the Brightwell soil is underneath and behind the hardscape. I figured I may need to add some more in order to achieve the desired pH of >6.5, since the pH has been hovering around 6.6~6.8 the past few days. As for the GH/KH, I'm trying to figure out why it is so high. I did use seiryu stone (which I believe is not inert) to weigh down the spiderwood until it would stay submerged, so that might be why the TDS and GH/KH are higher than I'd like. Hopefully it will just be a matter of a few water changes to fix those parameters. Also, the 2213 I am using was running on another tank that was already cycled, so in theory the filter should be able to take whatever shrimp bioload I throw at it. Will test it after I figure out the water hardness issues. Although I will be focusing on the display tank in this thread, I may make some posts featuring photos of my shrimp rack from time to time. Thanks for checking out the thread!
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    I have 3-4 packages RKK/Ruby Red culls available for sale Every package will include 10+1 shrimps. They are coming from my extreme/one bar RKK tanks. Price $95 shipped. Here is the video of the tank they come from.
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    Hey all, We just got done with some PAR meter testing on the setups we have that contain bucephalandra. So for all those of you who have always wanted to keep some of these beautiful plants along with your shrimp tanks but worried about lighting, have no fear! Check the link here for our findings.
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    11 Species of fissidens on this image in comparition... some are not determined now that is why i wil not write directly on the image. here the main species from left to right: Fissidens fox Fissidens idukki Fissidens osmundoides (probably) Fissidens sp Fissidens rufulus (very seldom/ new to the hobby) Fissidens rivularis Amaria Taruya (very seldom, there are very few that are keeping it) Fissidens incurvus Fissidens bhgamandala Fissidens fazal Fisidens sp (will determine it soon) Fissidens sp (also wil determine it soon, probably bryoides) i hope you like them all. simply ask if you find some of these interesting and you want to have them. Fissidens invurvus, rivularis and rufulus are really seldom. None of the above species comes from Poland, these have completely different origin.
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    It seems they are mostly looking at maturation and breeding. It's true that the higher the temperature the faster they grow, and berries hatch. The reason we choose to keep the shrimp at lower temperatures is they don't die as quickly and bacterial infections are kept to a minimum.
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    The turtle, believed to be over 100 years old, is the last known female of her species, Rafetus swinhoei, and was recently artificially inseminated. http://abcnews.go.com/International/worlds-endangered-turtle-100-years-mom/story?id=31537234
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    2+ years Bloody Mary project. Steel project pics of 2 of my females
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    DIY $7 Internal Breeder Box After dealing for 3-4 years with Marina external breeder boxes ran by Elite micro pump .I decided to switch to internal ones. Not that I don’t like Marina ones but in my narrow shrimp room they are always on my way during maintenance and catching shrimps. There are some very handy models but all of them are too large for my divided tanks. After scratching my head for a week here is what I come with. You will need: Lee's specimen container http://www.marinedepot.com/Lee_s_Aquarium_Specimen_Container_Small_Fish_Containers_Traps_for_Saltwater_Aquariums-Lee_s_Aquarium_Pet_Products-LE10515-FIMISC-vi.html Some air tubbing, air stone, acrylic tube, pvc or even hose will work. Dremel or any other cutting tool, drill bit, 2 part epoxy, SS fine net. I believe most of the people having aquariums for some time will have most of the things on hand. I bought Lees for $4.99 couple of months ago. Rest of the stuff was laying around. Because 1 picture worth 1000 words here is the design.
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    Would seem like they would since most other animals do, right? Actually dwarf shrimp mate belly to belly. After the fem molts, the male has to insert a sperm packet under her. The eggs then pass through the duct and through the packet before winding up under her swimmerettes.
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    Hi all, In celebration of our one year anniversary, we are giving away 2 free random bucephalandra (plant portions, 5-10+ leaves) with every order! We also have a new video out showing off a nice low tech setup in a 20 gallon (UNS 60U). Check it out here. Hurry, offer good until supplies last. Best,
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    I have a project I've been thinking about since I got into aquariums and no one I know cares, so I thought I would share my ideas and plans for this with other shrimp enthusiasts. I've been granted access, wife said so, to a corner near the entry way of my house to build this thing and I'm doing it! Wish me luck... My wife and kid are visiting family in China for a month this summer and to occupy myself in their absence I plan on building a big bad ass automated aquarium cabinet to replace the cheap tacky 2x4 rack I use currently. I am a cabinetmaker by trade, an electrical engineer by education and computer programmer by hobby so this shouldn't be too difficult for me (hahahahahaha), but it will take a lot of time planning/building and probably won't be cheap. I will be using cabinet grade materials for this and finishing it just like I would for a client. It will look nice, per requirements of my wife. So far I've come up with a rough layout of my design for the cabinet (pic attached) and haven't starting designing the electronic control circuits yet. I've been wanting to build an "automated" aquarium for quite a long time and have slowly acquired more than enough components to make this work. I would like to eventually plumb it into my water system and make it fully automated, but for now water changes will still be a thing. It will have two reservoirs for RODI water and waste water until I decide to tear open walls and run supply and drain lines into it. My plan is to have a touch screen LCD display water parameters, control lighting, display messages, and basically control any other function I think of building into the system. It will be connected to my wireless network, send text messages in the event of catastrophic failures (electrical, leakage, structural, etc.) and reminders to empty or fill reservoirs. The feeding of shrimp and cleaning of the front glass will be automated as will the maintenance of user set water parameters. PH will be controlled automatically by a Co2 system with a custom PH feedback controller, GH and TDS will be controlled automatically by adding calculated amounts of RODI water or a concentrated solution of mineralizer, temp is controlled by inline water heaters and a DIY chiller, the doors will have electronic locks so my two year old doesn't get into my shit, and the whole thing will be connected to my wireless network and have a custom blue tooth app so I can have mood lighting with the RGB LED strips I'm not really concerned with monitoring KH, Ammonia, Nitrates, or Nitrites as those have never been an issue with a fully cycled filter, but could add it in the future when a cheap hackable sensor hits the market. The whole system will consist of three 20 gallon longs as display tanks and two "breeder drawers" I designed to maximize space in breeding projects. Tanks will be drilled and plumbed together for a single 70-80 gallon volume of water. WTF is a breeder drawer? I'm not quite sure yet, but I was staring at my wall of little storage bins I keep my electronic components in and thought, "what if I could build a similar setup to breed shrimp and separate traits, lines, and generations without having to maintain a billion tanks, that would be cool?." So, I designed a thing to house many tiny tanks in one unit all connected together with lots of tubes and valves and the breeder drawer was alive, patent pending. Each unit would house around 40 partitions in a cubic foot of space, only question is how much space does a shrimp need to chill out and breed? I'm building a smaller prototype to test this idea, if it doesn't work or is a pain I will find another use for the two spaces in my cabinet. That is all for now, I know I forgot some stuff but it's late and I've written enough to include a TLDR... TLDR Guy wants to build an over complicated aquarium setup so he can merge all his passions into one and have a glorious shrimp rack that is controlled by artificial intelligence, bought and paid for by the Chinese government. Rough cabinet design. It will look real nice, I promise. Very rough breeder drawer design. It's much cooler in my head, I swear.
  16. 3 likes
    Trying to get decent photos with my cell phone... tried to focus but this is as good as I can get for cell phone.
  17. 3 likes
    Here are my new babies... =) Black tiger pinto Super crystal reds Wine red panda
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    you get SS GH/KH+. mix to get 8 gh. you will get 4 kh. tank will be around 200 TDS. nothing else to add.
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    FISSIDENS MIROSHAKI Portion Size- Tied to black rock, 40+ strands Xsmall rock, suited to a shrimp or nano tank - perfect for those collecting moss and keen on rare mosses Healthy, easy to grow. Does not require any special treatment for success, low tech tanks are perfectly fine! However it does grow slow! $22 ea. Price includes USPS FIRST CLASS MAIL Live arrival is Guaranteed!
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    I wish I didn't read this LOL here comes the 4000 shrimp in a 40 breeder oya
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    MOSS PACKAGE - 5 TYPES for $25 FREE SHIPPING YOU WILL GET- Fissidens Fontanus (tied to 1.5x1.5 mesh) Weeping (2x3" bag) Mini Christmas (2x3" bag) Mini Taiwan (2x3" bag) Java (loose golfball) Shipping is USPS First Class Mail. Live Arrival Guaranteed All my moss is algae free, may contain small snails. All portions are a good starter amount.
  23. 3 likes
    Plamski has really great blue bolts try shoot him a message and see what he has available! You'll have to ship them but his packaging is top notch
  24. 3 likes
    My Bloody Mary colony is taking off... Tonnes of babies, berries & saddles
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    How does one tell whether a food is good or not? I agree variety is good but it's hard to weed out what is high quality and low quality without knowing exactly what goes into making it and where it's sourced, etc. Tips/suggestions? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Just a short blurb and pic. http://www.nbcphiladelphia.com/news/weird/Maine-Wholesaler-Acquires-Rare-4-Clawed-Lobster-371719201.html?_osource=SocialFlowFB_PHBrand
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    I guess this would take care of the whole "I'm going away or 2 weeks, who is going to feed my salamander" thing!
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    http://www.hanaquatics.com/ss-filter-guard/ #40
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    So this is the facies of Fissidens virudulus ssp incurvus "Edithae". Close to Miroshaki but about 2-3 mm higher. This is how the stones developed in the last 6 months being permanently submerged. This species comes from small waterfalls and lives naturally almost in complete darkness. So it is very easy to keep, has not high light requirements, it is also very darkgreen.
  30. 3 likes
    Here's some updated pics from my tb tank. I'm hoping that some of these blue ones stay blue. Evryone in this tank is doing well. I have one female mischling that is already one her third batch of eggs since March. There are also two other tb that are berried at the moment. I currently have a 20L cycling which will be there future home so that I can house more shrimp. Right now I have them in a 7g.
  31. 3 likes
    I tried some of those cheap tube extensions from evilbay and they were crap. They barely stay on the camera. Here's a few more shots of some of my critters
  32. 2 likes
    This is a video format of my dive into the shrimp keeping/breeding hobby. I've never kept shrimp outside by Ammano shrimp, so I am very new. I didn't choose this hobby, the hobby (and a very irresponsible coworker) chose me. These videos are my adventures. -------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------- 3/13/2017 Week 1 cycle update! Parameters are perfect for week 1. Ammonia high, Nitrites spiking, all's good! Power head troubles Heater sensors/thermometers not inline with each other >.< 3/11/2017 Shrimp moved to 6g fluval tank Parameters are solid! Question about food: Should I be feeding a new shrimp tank considering the large amount of biofilm? 3/6/2017 Dream Blue Velvets had shrimpets! I assume the mother dropped the eggs -- nope! Added some Crypts 3/2/2017 Last night I did the following: Unboxed (Shrimp, Cholla wood, and some wisteria) Drip acclimated the dream blue velvet shrimp Setup the HOB (.8 gallon) tank till the permanent tank is cycled Overall, it went very well! Aquatic Arts did a fantastic job on packaging (albeit it was dusty AF) and each shrimp came out great.
  33. 2 likes
    Same thing happens when using any treatment. Ammonia spikes kill shrimp if you don't do a WC not the actual products.
  34. 2 likes
    Update: after waiting a few weeks for some of the shrimplets to mature. I decided to take a few pics of them. Here's a few pics of them as of now. My guess is they are Red Bolt phenotype since they are Tangtais.
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    Something I found at a rivulet that annually becomes a little torrent with our winter rains. I'm not a Moss or Fern expert like Manticore, so I have no idea what Phylum or Species either of these two plants are, The moss and fern don't seem to mind growing in 70+ degree water, but they don't seem to like excess nutrients. They both attach to driftwood easily enough.
  36. 2 likes
    Just to verify video is from the tank the culls are taken from. Bottom 2 pictures are actual shrimps for sale.
  37. 2 likes
    Mineral balls are pretty much snake oil. They have little to no impact on the shrimp. You won't notice any difference if you add them or not.
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    Here are some pics taken today.. Limited amount available!
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    Ok paint drying now going to wait for 24 hrs for it to dry. I'm going to pull the doors off the cabinets and trim them down
  41. 2 likes
    Frame is as far as I can go have the canopy and cabinets rdy for plywood
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    When I called American Marine and discussed this subject, I left the conversation with full faith that my Pinpoint is giving correct results. The technical discussion went over my head and was long enough ago that I can't remember the specific details to pass along here. I had originally inquired because I ordered an HM Digital HM-80 to use as a comparison and on other tanks, but once received I noted drastically different results than from my Pinpoint. Additionally, I would note that the HM pen could show different results in the same tank during different tests, whereas the Pinpoint gives the SAME result every time. After my discussion with American Marine I returned the HM-80. I now feel comfortable that if my Pinpoint is dual-point calibrated (pH 4.0 and pH 7.0) that the value displayed is correct. If I pull the probe out and test in calibration solution right now, it will show pH 4 and pH 7 respectively, and when I return it to the tank, the pH goes back to the same spot. Lastly I would say that if you want more detail, call the Customer Service line for American Marine, listed on their website. The two times I've called it was answered by Lou Dell, who I believe either owns or started the company. He is well informed, well spoken, and interested in hearing about people who use his products. One of the best customer service interactions I've ever had with a company........twice. If it sounds like I've drank the kool-aid, it's because I have.
  45. 2 likes
    Cool wego21, Just a word of advise, say your Ph drops too low and you remove some of the aquasoil after cycling, keep an eye for any spike in ammonia as disturbing the substrate again might cause a mini cycle. you can also use sponges from other tanks, squize it the good bacteria from them and add too the new tank for faster cycling. then also there is Prodibio Biodigest that is also a great product, yet again, I have only heard good reviews on Mosura BT9 good luck!
  46. 2 likes
    I'll take one! Your moss is the best especially the fissidens. Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
  47. 2 likes
    Awesome list! I should never have to leave my neighborhood to feed my shrimp [emoji33]
  48. 2 likes
    Wygglz, I'm laughing because after I read the article I immediately thought the same thing!
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    Unless your home is kept at 60-70%, the humidity is most likely coming from the foam. Once it dries the humidity will go down to the levels of your home until you add moisture to the tank.
  50. 2 likes
    fissidens arrived nice and well in norway....nice picture "Fissidens rivularis just arrived. Attached to a stone from the spot the moss was located"