TomCruise

I'm diggin everything except for the peat. That's organic right? Gonna break down into little clouds of ammonia, which may or may not be a problem if there is good filtration. I think I'm going to try to stick with non-plant matter, which is why I use Controsoil (Brightwell in USA i found out) I like that sea shell idea. This is great stuff in this thread.

Thanks everyone. I realize I posted in the wrong place. I''k check out your thread Bubba

So I've come to the conclusion that buffered substrate is dumb. By the time the tank finally seems to get balanced the substrate becomes exhausted and i gotta start the whole process over. (I remineralize RO water). So I'm thinkin about just using a product with Humic acid in it to achieve a targeted pH? I've seen little humic balls and something called blackwater. But before i go and do something stupid, i thought I'd see if anyone here could tell me why this is a dumb plan first.

I have some tigers that are pretty clear, cept lately a couple are kinda turning white inside. looks like a bacterial infection maybe. I saw one a coulple weeks ago that was dead and he was far more white than these, but the "look" is similar to these others. Is there a good way to give these little buggers antibiotics? or any help would be appreciated. thx.

What bad news?! Things are great! You must be looking in the wrong places. The news occupies a 3 x 4 inch flat square in my reality, and i make sure it stays that way, cuz the rest of my reality is filled with so much I'm greatful for. I mean someone just living in this country as working in fast food, is already doing better than 95% of the planet, right? The sky is still blue, clouds, air... Sometimes i just really enjoy drinking a glass of water. This forum is fantastic too. I'll agree with you there.

Like deep blue with no white on the tips of the tails. Thx!

Anybody?

There is a way to file for an exemption from the inspection point of this process so that you can have them shipped directly to you. I know nothing about it, except that qualifying has to do with making a case that shows the delay would cause hardship for the animal being imported. I think if it applied to any animal, it would apply to shrimp.

Aslo ive beem letting my CO2 run at night however much it needs to keep my pH levels steady. Is this a bad idea? Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the feedback guys. Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Yea, i think I'm going to go the opposite direction as well. less CO2 and a near continual very slow water change to get my nitrate levels to zero. Its funny cuz when i had some water sprites in there i didnt have an algae problem. So have concluded that CO2 is the answer if you cant get nitrates to 0. like absolute zero. So im gonna give that a shot, because i don't think the plants need that much CO2. Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Oh, I don't know. I have a 10 gal curved tank and it's glass. That being said, if it IS glass I recklessly recommend that you get some MAPP gas and torch it. But only because I'm curious if it would work.

Ok, so I have a ten gallon with various Caridina in it and plants. Running CO2 controlled via a Milwaukee pH controller, so I can keep my pH pretty close to whatever I want. What are the problems with CO2 and Caridina? I have an algae problem and would like to increase my CO2 to get rid of it, but would like to know what people think 1st. How low can I go with my pH? Thanks in advance for any advice. -Tom

There is a water additive, Flourish Advance, i think? It's great at stimulating root growth. It essentially makes it so the plant stops growing and throws all of it's energy downward.

Nice! Yea, I'm a fan of removing anything you aren't sure of in a tank. How does the saying go? "You have achieved perfection not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away." Also, I'm pretty anti rock in a shrimp tank (except maybe slate) as they have a tendency to screw with the pH. I like your Manzanita wood. Are you running CO2? How old is this tank setup?