Jen

I've never heard of them so I just googled the name. I have to say they are pretty looking fish. Now, are they safe because they must be kept in a saltwater tank? Or did you mean bumble bee gobies which are brackish water fish but can survive in fresh water? If so, then I believe they are safe around adult shrimp but definitely not their fry. Or or did you mean Panda loaches? In which case I haven't a clue if they're shrimp safe.

Not so long ago I had a total melt down of my 12 gallon planted tank - due to my schedule at the time I didnt do enough water changes and algea took over my tank. Once I got a handle of my time I tried to combat the algea with H2O2. It did not go well and I had a plant melt down. I moved everything out to try and salvage my plants and animals. One of those animals is an ammano shrimp that currently resides in my caridina tank until the new set-up has cycled. My question is whether ammano shrimp eat dwarf shrimp fry? I recently purchased (and I feel very lucky) a high-grade berried panda and want to do everything possible to have a high fry survival rate. I also recently read that it's possible for ammano shrimp to go after and eat fry shrimp. I have seen this with ghost shrimp but never with ammanos. But if someone can confirm it's true then I'll have to move the ammano to one of my other tanks.

Good advice and basically my learning experience as well. In addition to every point you made, one additional thing I learned is that using RO water with shrimp specific reminerilzer increase survival rate. I used to use Seachem alkaline and neutral to adjust ph, but it did little to help reach optimal Gh and Kh for the kind of shrimp in each tank. Death rates decreased but so did survival rate of the fry. But since I've changed to reminerizers specific for neos or bees the survival rate is even better. It's so good in fact that I felt I was ready to purchase the more difficult shrimp like pandas and King Kong.

Thanks! That's really sad to hear mostly because that little bit was so expensive. At less than now I can take it out of my tank and plant something else in that place. I recently purchased some more and will be receiving it later this week. But I'm now a little concerned that this new purchase will die just the same. I wonder what are the optimal conditions to keep it in?

I was under the impression that they are the same shrimp with different names. When I've purchased golden bees online they always arrive a cream color. After a few days and when the water parameters are optimal, they start to turn an orange hue. I've noticed the same thing happens with my blue bolts; they lose their blue coloring when stressed like when they get shipped in the mail, or transferring from the LFS to home but regain their color a few hours after they've been acclimated to my tank and continue to darken over a few days. One thing I have noticed with both my both blue and golden bee is that when they start losing their color, even if they've been in my tank a while, is that they die. In conclusion, IMO golden bees are one and the same as red bolts. But golden bees/red bolts lose their orange tinge when stressed or water parameters are not great.

Recently I purchased and received a beautiful little portion of loose mini pellia. I attached it to a piece of stainless steel mesh using ADA moss string and put it in my high-tech 12 gal tank (ADA soil, strong lighting, CO2, ferts, etc.). Side note, the 12gal is a new set-up that is about 4 weeks old so the soil is still leaching some ammonia. The pellia had been in there no more than a week when it turned dark brown-green. I then transferred it into what I call my "miracle tank". Which is a 5gallon low tech tank where everything grows!! Everything! (Except baby tears). I'm hoping to revive it, but I'm not sure if it's to the point of no return and I should just toss it and buy more or wait a little longer and wait to see what happends. Is is it possible for mini pellia to come back to life at this stage of decomposition?

Amanos are fresh water shrimp but the larva need brackish water to survive. I also had a berried ammano that was berried for a really long time but the catchings never survived. There are instructional articles where people tried and succeeded at breeding ammano shrimp. But frankly it's a lot of work.

After many online shrimp purchases I've found that shrimp that are bred in the US are less stressed and have a higher rate of survival. I've purchased OERB , blue bolt, golden bee from different US breeders on several occasions with 100% survival rate . The only exception was one time when all the OERB died. The weather was super hot, the plastic bag expanded and popped thus leaking all of the water and practically cooking the shrimp. It was a sad sight to see. Meanwhile I've purchase golden bees, painted reds, BM from different sellers that import their shrimp. In those instances I know that at least 10% but up to 50% of the shrimp will be DOA especially when shipping takes 3 days. The one time I had next day shipping for shrimp from the same sellers I had 100% of the shrimp arrived alive.

OMG I recently discovered Bob's and it's now my favorite LFS! The owner and his sons are super helpful and knowledgeable and they carry shrimp that I can only find online. I'm been trying to breed my caradinias for some time now to no avail. Your tank looks great btw and congrats on CRS babies.

I also use a glass shrimp catcher. I think it causes less stress to the shrimp because they stay in water the entire time. What I don't like about it is that if I'm transferring my shrimp and the water from one tank is contaminated with say, BBA, spores can contaminate the new set up.

I think my parameters are the same as wego21 except for TDS and nitrite. Mine are higher than the recommended numbers but both my Painted Red and Bloody Mary are thriving. I did a 75% water change on my BM tank to try and lower TDS and N03 using the drip method that took almost 24 hours to fill my 3 gallon tank. There were no deaths as a result. When you do water changes how fast are you changing the water? If you're not using the drip method may I suggest you try that.

I've seen cherry shrimp sold at one of the many Petco stores in my area. But what they do is separate the less colorful males and call them by one name and sell them at a one price, and they have the more colorful and larger females and call them something else and sell them for about $1 more than the males. I wanted to let let workers know that they're actually the same shrimp, but them I remembered that Coporate makes the marketing decisions including the naming and prices so I instead opted to keep my opinion to myself. It's not like I would buy cherry shrimp from petco or my educating one worker there would suddenly fix the issue in petcos all over the country.

If you have plants, rock decor, wood then your shrimp can be hiding in a number of places. If you have snails then your snails can be consuming the dead shrimp. Other shrimp will also eat dead shrimp but that depends on how hungry they are. When shrimp die they fall to the ground or get stuck in plants or whatever they were standing on at the time. Also, they can decompose quickly (at least from what I've seen in my tanks) so if you don't check your tanks regularly then you may miss that process.

Thanks for your feedback. I ended up doing just that and everything is almost perfectly balance.

I want to lower my TDS without greatly affecting other parameters. Currently have 4gallon cube and will be keeping blue bolt. I currently house golden bee and CRS. my parameters are TDS 328 gH 2 kH 1 pH 6.4 no ferts i have about 1.5 inch equal part of black sand and Fluval stratum. The TDS is on the high side for all the kind of shrimp I'm keeping. A few days ago the parameters were the same except for the pH and TDS which were coming up as ph of 6 and TDS hitting around 350-370 (if I remember correctly). I did a large water change a few days ago with reminerilized RO water. I was concern that the addition of mineral would cause the TDS to raise but luckily that was not the result. Whats confusing to me is that of everything I've read I always understood that TDS normally coinsided with pH levels. High ph=high TDS and vise versa. I have an idea as to how my TDS got so high, but it's a bit confusing that my pH got so low (6). So other than doing a complete water change is there a safer way to reduce my TDS while other parameters stay about the same?