wego21

that is a red rili shrimp. Its a Neocaridina species, not like the Crystal red that is behind it, that is a caridina species, they will not crossbreed so don't worry.

Hello, My 10G tank for Neos has following parameters and the shrimp are fine, no molting issues what so ever, breeding like crazy PH: 7.2 Temp: 26C TDS: 250 GH: 6 KH: 2 Ammonia, Nitrate,Nitrite: 0 I also have few types of additives that put into the tank during setup - Borneowild balance, Mosura BT9. I put additional minerals into the water - I have a big Mironecton block which slowly dissolves and about 30 pieces of Lian breeder stones. Do you have something similar in your tank and other tanks? This could be the difference thats causing the molting issues as well. What product do you use to raise GH, KH and TDS from RO water during water change?

Hello NotKelly, I am new to the hobby myself, and I am using Glass Garten Shrimp Baby and Bacteria bee max to increase the survival rate of my baby shrimp. From what I have researched on the net, these products are more of a use when you take care of caridina shrimp. Some of the blogs I have come upon say that new born baby shrimp of neocaridina species are more active and look for food themselves so they crawl around the tank. On the other hand the baby shrimp of the caridina species do not crawl to much and prefer to stay on one spot sometimes several days at a time mostly when they are new born up until a week or so. Please more experienced shrimp keepers shed some light on this and correct me if I am wrong. I have Neos as well as Caridinas (I have Orange Rilis, Fire reds, Blue dreams, Crystal reds and Crystal blacks). I put the bacteria products in few times a week mostly when I see that berried shrimps dont carry the eggs anymore and I see the babies hiding. When you put the product into the tank, it is powder like so it looks like its snowing inside the tank, it gets everywhere so the baby shrimp have enough food to go around. Together with any algae that you have in the tank it should be enough to keep them fed. The downside that I see is that when the shrimp do not eat all of the small particles, they sink to the bottom of the tank and are sucked into the gravel as I have also under-gravel filter (together with external canister filter and foam filters for the shrimp to graze on). From what I see up until now, the survival rate of Neocaridina is much higher than the survival rate of Caridina shrimp, the time that they carry the eggs is similar and also the time it takes them to get berried is similar (nearly 1 month from the hatching, and about 30 or so days from berried to hatching) My water params for Caridina GH: 5 KH: 0 PH: 6.5 TDS: 150 Temp: 24 - 25C (Chiller takes care of stable water temp) Neocaridina tank GH: 6 KH: 2 PH: 7.2 TDS: 200 - 250 Temp: 26 - 27C, they also breed in 29C but die soon (no chiller so the temp sometimes climbs up)

if you have an egg tumbler you can take the eggs off the shrimp, put them into the egg tumbler and if you are lucky and they do not get spoiled you can hatch them. have a look at the egg tumblers for shrimp, you can make one yourself as well.

Hello fellow shrimp keepers, I am creating this topic to find some sellers or shrimp keepers that are situated in EU or live near my location and are willing to trade, buy / sell shrimp, meet and talk about our hobby I live in Slovakia near the border of 2 countries. I live near Vienna (Austria), Bratislava (Slovakia) and Hodonin (Czech). If you are living near or you live somewhere in EU and are willing to trade, sell, buy shrimp, could you please write down your city, country and what shrimp you are willing to trade for the mapping purposes. I would like to buy some SS, SSS grade Crystal red, crystal black and PRL shrimp. From my point of view its better to hand pick and buy directly from a shrimp keeper than to buy from a local fish store (If I can find one selling shrimp with this grade)

I started my 10G tank with about 15 shrimp, and ratio of 11 or 12 female and rest are males. Now I have full tank of juvenile shrimp, nearly half of the females were berried and gave birth at the same time. Depending on the price and the type of the shrimp you want to keep if they are not expensive buy more.

I would be careful with the ammonia. Ammonia should be 0 all the time in a well established tank, the bacteria colony should take care of it quite fast. The best thing is to keep Ammonia, nitrates and nitrites at 0 or nitrates as low as possible. My nitrates were about max 5 and in order to get them to 0, I purchased a 100 ml bag of Seachem Purigen (40L tank). I put it into the canister filter and next day after testing everything was at 0. The shrimps were OK also before and were breeding normally, but for the peace of mind I put the Purigen bag into the filter :). Before that I made some research on the purigen on youtube and the guys there were happy with the results so I gave it a go and now I have it in both of my shrimp tanks. For the PH problem. I had the same issue. PH of the tap water here is quite high around 7.8 to 8 and for my CRS I needed to keep it down to 6.7 or so. During the cycling of the tank I was trying different products and see how stable that PH drop was. The liquid PH ups and PH downs are rubbish, it is very easy to get the dosing wrong which can drop the PH very fast and that can kill the shrimp. From what the instructions say you should not drop more than 0.5 PH per day. I tried it out and put the dose according to the instructions. What happened was that it dropped way down from 8 to 4. That would definitely kill everything in there from the shock. Few days later it was back to 8 again. Then I changed to the RO water and BeeSHrimp to remineralize. After the ADA amazonia substrate and the tank were cycled, with the use of RO water the PH dropped to 6.5 - 6.7. So my advise as other guys have written as well would be to use the active substrate together with RO water. + Almond leaves and alder cones, peat moss, ... - the natural stuff. the Liquids and other chemicals are not safe from my point of view.

Looks like blue dreams that I have. If its head is blueish color should be blue dreams, if its more of a black color then its carbon rili. When I was buying the blue dreams I was choosing both really dark blue ones but also some of brighter ones like the one you have. After brought home and putting them into the tank, few weeks later the really dark blue ones got brighter. When I bought them I bought also one chocolate shrimp by mistake. They were keeping chocolates and blue dreams together and since their color was so dark, it was difficult to see whether it was chocolate or blue dream at that time. After few weeks that chocolate which was really dark brown nearly black got kind of brownish and transparent color. It may be because of the color of the substrate that their color changed so much, maybe some more experienced shrimp keepers could shed some light on the reason. I am using dark ADA amazonia substrate. BTW I keep them with CRS and CBS, so I also put the water params that I keep mine just in case for comparison (they are thriving, I have berried shrimp all the time, and also CRS are starting to get berried): Shrimp tank is about 2 months old. PH: 6.7 GH: 6 KH: 0 TDS: 170 Temperature: 24-25C Below are some images, note that brown chocolate shrimp, when I bought it it was nearly black. The other blue dream shrimps, when bought were very dark blue.

hello, the RO unit is not so expensive, and it is a must if you want to keep higher grade and harder to keep shrimp (Taiwan bees, etc.) . My tap water has params that are ok for neocaridina, (TDS 150, GH6, KH2, PH 7.5) but I still bought the RO unit, the main reason is because you dont really know whats inside of the tap water (what is the TDS composed off, what metals are in water, chlorine, etc. ) and you also will not know when the params suddenly change, which may cause unexpected shrimp deaths. When you have RO unit you start from scratch, therefore you know what you put into the water, you know how much and what are the params. The params will be exactly the same each time if you stick to your routine. I started with rili shrimp mainly because my PH was to high and now I keep also CRS. Since I started to use RO watter, I was able to get the PH low enough to fit to the parameters. I use ADA Amazonia and a lot of it, and it had hard time to pull the PH down. Later however I want to keep the more expensive shrimp and there the RO unit is a must. All depends on you and your goal. Since I bought RO unit for our home usage (8 stage filtering) I use this as well for the shrimp. I think that you can get just a basic 3stage filter on amazon or ebay quite cheap (maybe 100$) and if you want to go for harder to keep shrimp in the future, just invest a bit. Also when you use tap watter, make sure to get rid of chlorine, I used Seachem Prime, Chlorine can also stress and kill shrimp.

Hello, I am quite new to shrimp keeping myself, but from what I see and the parameters for Crystal Red Shrimp that are online, your KH looks quite high. I am keeping CRS as well and my KH is 0 - 1, your PH is also a bit high for Crystal Red shrimp. Use this as refference for the parameters. If you want to keep Crystal Red Shrimp I would strongly advise you to get RO unit as they are more sensitive to the water parameters than Neocaridina type (like Red Cherry, rili and so on). You should also check your GH. If the colors are suddenly fading, it may be an indication of stress, if the shrimp is also racing around the tank like crazy then its definitely a sign that something is not good. for sharing info, my params for CRS are PH: 6.7 KH: 0 - 1 GH: 6 TDS: 175 temp: 23-24C

hello, I am using Hailea HC-150A, my tank is just a 10g (I know its overkill :D) , but I will make 3 x 20g and use that chiller to cool the watter. Works great, keeps temperature stable and is not making to much noise

Hello, this is also what I would like to know. I would like to add additional questions: - Do you guys keep the saddled shrimp together with the male in the separate tank until the female molds and is fertilized or until it is berried? - What do you put into the breeding isolation box (for example in tank acrylic box)? (probably some moss, anything else?) - When do you scoop the saddled female into the breeding box? - What if you can't see the saddle for example in CRS or CBS where the color makes it difficult to see the saddle? To answer question of emaratilicious about the water chemistry, I would keep it the same as in your main tank as if the shrimp are breeding there it means the parameters are acceptable for them. The food as well, I would stick to the original diet that you put into the tank.

Hello fellow shrimp keepers, Today in the morning I came to my tank to find a dead berried shrimp. I am trying to save the eggs by removing them from the under carriage and putting them to a glass tumbler. This is my second time trying this. First time I failed because of fungus sticking to the eggs. The air flow makes the eggs slightly wave in the current so I know they have enough air circulating. On the forum I am reading about success stories hatching the eggs, so I wanted to ask whether you guys have any way how to prevent fungus growing on the eggs? Any kind of medication or how do you remove the eggs and clean them to keep them healthy?

Hello fellow shrimp keepers, I have a bit problems with my water, I use RO water and I use Bee Shrimp Gh to raise the GH of the water to about 6. Problem is that the TDS at that time is only about 120 and I need it to raise to about 200 for my Neos. At the moment I use Mosura TDS-UP, but I would like to ask you for an alternative how to raise the TDS easily and/or maybe naturally somehow. After I put the BeeShrimp GH I still have KH of 0 and I use bits of corals that are in the tank to raise the KH to about 2. Is there a similar way to raise the TDS as with the KH?

I have the same issue, my females are saddled with a lot of eggs in the saddle but did not want to get berried. It took about a week as they can get berried after they mold. I started to see molds and few days after that berried females. Wait a bit longer and you should see berried females.