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Axelrodi202

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  1. These are all grown in my medium light, CO2-supplemented tank, but take low light quite well and do not require CO2. They will all grow well in a shrimp tank. I recently pulled quite a few for a rescape so am letting these go at low prices. Reach out if you are looking for a large quantity and we can work something out. Fontinalis antipyretica 'large form' - $8 for 2" x 2", or 4" x 4" for $20 Cryptocoryne affinis 'metallic red' - $8 each, or 3 for $18, or 5 for $25 Bacopa colorata - $2 per stem
  2. They do in fact lay eggs. In fact there are scientific papers documenting hatch times at various temperatures, which is where I got the 3 weeks (at 68 F) from. I believe the betal nut extract products aren't ovicidal. In the past I asked about SLAqua's and they said a 2 week treatment is required for thorough extermination of any that were eggs. 2 weeks is the hatch time in the low 70s F.
  3. I have quite a few copepods and ostracods in my tank with tangerine tigers and amano shrimp. It's a 120 gallon with only 30 tigers, so perhaps there aren't enough of them to make a dent on the copepod population.
  4. I got 30 tangerine tigers in February. In the past 2 weeks I have went from never seeing a berried one to seeing three. And this is despite a three-week planaria treatment back in April.
  5. Are there any planaria treatments that are also ovicidal? I'd rather not wait 3 weeks in plant qt for any eggs to hatch...
  6. How long does a tank need to be treated with fenbendazole to ensure all planaria, and their eggs, are extinct?
  7. Very true! Unfortunately even close monitoring can be tough. The only reason I know I have them is because I saw the aftermath of an attack recently. Staring at the tank (during lights out) for quite a while after the fact failed to yield any sightings. So if there are survivors and I can draw out even one that will be good enough for my purposes to know treatment needs to be continued. If anyone has further info on the egg issue it would be much appreciated.
  8. Theoretically there should be none left, but I want a way to be 100% sure. The tank is a 120 so I fear there's a higher chance there could be some survivors. I only feed once a week so overfeeding is not the issue; their presence in the tank is. I'm starting to hear about usage of multiple treatments to ensure that the ones that are eggs during the first treatment are also killed. Does anyone have experience with this?
  9. What is the best way to draw out planaria? I have a few in my tank. Not enough to see them crawling all over the tank at night, but enough that I've had a few shrimp attacks and deaths so far. I will be treating the tank with drugs but want to make sure there are no survivors by the end of the treatment, to help me decide if further treatment is needed. Thus I want a good way to draw out any potential survivors.
  10. I recently found some white flatworms in my tank. I initially panicked because I thought they were planaria (I've lost whole tanks of shrimp to planaria before). I was beating myself up for possibly underdosing anti-planaria drugs when quarantining a new batch of recently added plants. But then I realized they asides from being flat and white they don't resemble the predatory planaria I've seen in the past. They are no longer than 2-3 mm. They curl up into a ball when disturbed, but instead of sinking end up carried by the water current. Though one end seems a bit larger than the other they don't have the triangle/diamond shaped head, or the obvious dark eyespots. They can move somewhat fast but generally move along pretty slowly. They mainly stick to the substrate, though I did initially notice them by seeing one on the lower glass. Further research makes me think they're Rhabdocoela worms. Does this description fit the bill? This tank was previously successfully treated for planaria with drugs, and all new plants since then have been quarantined with drugs as well. Do anti-planaria drugs not affect these? Most importantly, do these affect shrimp in any way? I'm fine with leaving them in (I always like microfaunal diversity) if they won't decimate my colony.
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