Aennedry

I don't run heaters in my shrimp tanks, but my tropical tanks are heated. Been running tanks on and off since I was ten (yes, started early) and have only had them die in the off position. I will fess up and admit that I forgot to turn one off while doing a water change and cracked it when adding new water, but that one was quickly switched out.

done. =^._.^=

If I remember correctly, while red Bloody Marys are from the chocolate line and painted fire are high grade cherry. So if I remembered right...good chance of wilds. =^._.^=

Hello. After reading everything, I believe I shall agree with Shamedic's theory. Using prime is well and good, but it will not affect whatever is in the water that is giving you that high gh. And it could also be a source of the nitrates as well. My tap gave me similar kh and gh, plus 10ppm nitrates and 5ppm ammonia and a tds of around 250. While prime can take care of some of it, it is better to not put any questionable chemicals, metals or whatever mystery stuff that the city does not include in their water quality reports in your tank. Go with the distilled or RO, I get RO from my grocer for the lovely .40 a gallon and my tds meter has never given me a reading of more than 5 from it. =^._.^=

No problem. At that size of tank you could do a tear down, but unless you find out why the algae is there, it will come back. Are high nutrients/lights an issue? Is it a planted tank? Are you dosing any ferts if it is? What is your light cycle? On timers? I have read that breaking the cycle (having a dark period) during the day may disrupt the algae growth cycle. Algae is such a bother...

It is also not meant to be used on algae. Best way to take care of that is to pull out as much as you can with your hands and do regular water changes to keep the water parameters under control (nitrates under 10ppm). Doing a week long blackout also helps on some algaes. =^._.^=

I just looked at the page, and that is for salt water tanks, not fresh. I would not use it. =^._.^=

I am not sure how neocardinia endanger the opae'ula, as the neocardinia live in fresh water and the opae'ula in brackish waters. But it would be good to check their regulations. =^._.^=

Blanched green peas (minus the shell) kale and spinich work as well if you have those on hand. And check out the sponsors pages for some great shrimp foods. =^._.^=

If you know which tigers they were, breed it back to a parent. Or to siblings who might be carrying the genes, and then breed it to the offspring. That is one cool looking shrimp! =^._.^=

*sigh* Things like this never come up when I have tanks/money available... Those are very nice looking dreams. =^._.^=

I an tell you that pygmy cories are shy little creatures, but are cute as dickens. I am going to be doing a 20G with small fish as well. Going to be putting Celestial Pearl Danios, I can order them in from Petco for less tha $2 each. I have a few ottos, and was thinking of getting some chili rasbora too. There will be a couple of nerites, but I really want a few more rabbits. Though, there will still be cherry neos in there... =^._.^=

And since no one has answered this yet; yes later you can add OEBT. =^._.^=

Looks like limpets to me. Small, white, annoying. Related to snails. Sadly the best way to keep the population down that I have found are pygmy cories. =^._.^=

I have Taiwan Fire Red neos in with TTs, Now I am looking for some to put with my OEBT. They will be on white sand, as it is pretty hard to see dark blue well on black sand. So now I need something that will look good with blue and on white in the neo family. =^._.^=