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Shrimp rack plans


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Yup, it's another shrimp rack thread. I'll be asking you guys for advice/critique with regards to my plans for this rack.

I have a 6-shelf 48"Wx18"Dx72"H wire rack that I will be assembling without the included wheels. I will only be using 5 of the 6 shelves, otherwise I wouldn't have enough clearance to do maintenance on the tanks.

 

I currently have four tanks running:

  1. Mr. Aqua MA-720 (17.4 gallons, 24"Wx12"Dx14"H) [Eheim 2213 + dual sponge + Large 0.5g marina breeder box ]
  2. 10g (20"Wx11"Dx13"H) [Fluval 106 + 2x dual sponge] I know, it's overkill.
  3. Aquamaxx 12" Cube (7.5 gallons) [AC20 + dual sponge] Again, overkill.
  4. Aquamaxx 12" Cube (7.5 gallons) [AC20 + dual sponge] Ditto.

 

I want to add two 20l tanks with HMF for a total of 6 tanks. All of these tanks will end up on the rack.

 

Here's the setup I'm going for (1 being the top shelf, 5 being the bottom shelf):

  1. Drip tubs
  2. 20l + 12" cube [27.5 gallons total]
  3. 20l + 12" cube [27.5 gallons total]
  4. Mr. Aqua MA-720 + 10g [28.1 gallons total]
  5. Fluval 106 + Eheim 2213 / storage

 

I'm going to build the rack and use empty tanks to test if I get enough clearance for maintenance. After doing the math, if I space out each shelf evenly, I will only have 16.5" height per shelf, leaving me with 2.5 inches of clearance (for the MA-720) at worst, and 4.5 inches of clearance (for the 12" cubes) at best. If that wasn't already a bad figure, I planned on placing a piece of plywood on each shelf for extra support, leaving me with even less clearance. However, I do plan on making the bottom canister shelf shorter than the other shelves to hopefully compensate. If worse comes to worst, I will not place the canisters on the rack unit at all (seeing as the Eheim 2213 is 14" tall) and I will set the bottom shelf's height to 8~10" allowing me to give the other shelves an extra 2~3" of clearance per.

 

Moving on-- since I'll be adding 2 HMF to the rack setup, then totaling 7 air-driven filters, I want to make things simpler by using 1 central air-pump unit. I heard good things about Alita air-pumps and was thinking about getting the Alita 6 LPM.

 

As for lighting, I think I will be picking up two 48" Finnex Stingray units and hanging them underneath the wire shelving. I'm only housing moss/ferns/buces in my tanks so I think the Stingray should suffice. For the other tank shelf, I will be using existing lights.

 

My main questions to you guys are:

  1. Is the setup feasible/safe given the wire rack I have?
  2. Is the Alita 6 LPM appropriate for my setup?
  3. Are there better lighting solutions (as opposed to my plan) for the rack?
  4. Are there any general rack tips that could help my setup? Electrical/wire management/stabilization etc

 

Thanks for reading, and I am grateful for any feedback you guys can offer.

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My biggest concern for you is clearance above the tanks. You'll want at least 4 to 5 inches as a bare minimum. The first time I set up my rack, I left 4 inches of clearance above the tank, and performing maintenance was hard. Reaching the bottom of the tank, adding or removing plants, decorations or equipment, or catching inhabitants with a net is a lot harder and messier. I actually took the tanks down so I could move the shelves to different heights. You will be much happier with 7 or 8 inches. I'm moving my rack this weekend to a new house, and I plan on keeping the clearance at a minimum of 7 inches. I use rigid foam insulation to line the shelves. They add thickness to the shelves, better distribute the weight of the tanks, and help insulate upper tanks from the lights below.

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I agree with seaj. You will not be able to get your hands in, nets etc remove or add any hardscape with only 2.5 inches of clearance. YOu will need about 6 inches atleast and you will be much happier if you even give yourself 8 inches or more.... When  I have less then 6-8 inches, it is very difficult to do anything and you will wish you planned differently.

 

You will also need to use plywood cut to size to keep this rack from bowing and just to make it more sturdy....

 

Tank Rack plans are always exciting, and its a great idea that you are getting insight from others who have experience so you don't have to learn the hard way . Good luck!!!

 

PS. if you are only growing buce and moss you can get away with using leds or these lights. This is what I use for all my plant (moss ferns etc) growing needs, and the price is right! There are different sizes as well. I find these to be the best bang for the buck, and they work great for me.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-T5-Dual-36-6500K-Aquarium-Light-Freshwater-Plant-Discus-Tetra-2x-39W-630-/291882935593?hash=item43f5942529

 

As for your air pump, you only have plans for 6 tanks so I would just get 2 Fusion airpumps and run it that way. They are affordable , quiet and that is what I use in my mini fish room. (the reviews are great, and accurate to what I have experienced)

 

http://www.kensfish.com/aquarium-supplies/air-pumps/fusion-700-air-pump.html

 

 

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15 minutes ago, seaj said:

My biggest concern for you is clearance above the tanks. You'll want at least 4 to 5 inches as a bare minimum. The first time I set up my rack, I left 4 inches of clearance above the tank, and performing maintenance was hard. Reaching the bottom of the tank, adding or removing plants, decorations or equipment, or catching inhabitants with a net is a lot harder and messier. I actually took the tanks down so I could move the shelves to different heights. You will be much happier with 7 or 8 inches. I'm moving my rack this weekend to a new house, and I plan on keeping the clearance at a minimum of 7 inches. I use rigid foam insulation to line the shelves. They add thickness to the shelves, better distribute the weight of the tanks, and help insulate upper tanks from the lights below.

 

3 minutes ago, dazalea said:

I agree with seaj. You will not be able to get your hands in, nets etc remove or add any hardscape with only 2.5 inches of clearance. YOu will need about 6 inches atleast and you will be much happier if you even give yourself 8 inches or more.... When  I have less then 6-8 inches, it is very difficult to do anything and you will wish you planned differently.

 

You will also need to use plywood cut to size to keep this rack from bowing and just to make it more sturdy....

 

Tank Rack plans are always exciting, and its a great idea that you are getting insight from others who have experience so you don't have to learn the hard way . Good luck!!!

 

PS. if you are only growing buce and moss you can get away with using leds or these lights. This is what I use for all my plant (moss ferns etc) growing needs, and the price is right! There are different sizes as well. I find these to be the best bang for the buck, and they work great for me.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-T5-Dual-36-6500K-Aquarium-Light-Freshwater-Plant-Discus-Tetra-2x-39W-630-/291882935593?hash=item43f5942529

 

As for your air pump, you only have plans for 6 tanks so I would just get 2 Fusion airpumps and run it that way. They are affordable , quiet and that is what I use in my mini fish room. (the reviews are great, and accurate to what I have experienced)

 

http://www.kensfish.com/aquarium-supplies/air-pumps/fusion-700-air-pump.html

 

 

 

Thank you, seaj and dazalea for the feedback! You both make excellent points.

 

I will forego one of the shelves and instead use only 4 shelves. That way I should have 8~12" of clearance per shelf. Wow, what a difference!

 

I will definitely be adding plywood for extra support and will probably also be adding drying mats on top of the plywood. 

 

As for the light and air pump suggestions, I will certainly look into the products you suggested.

 

I'm really excited to set up this rack and really appreciate that I can skip 'learning the hard way' thanks to your guys' advice.

 

Cheers!

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The clearance is important! with Chi 5g I only have 4.5" and it's not very easy! In other places it's 5.5" and is still not easy but much better than 4.5". You really can feel that inch!

 

Also I bought Alita-6 and right now it's running 4 air tubes it's noisy!!! I was expecting I wouldn't hear it but it's not true. The first thing when I get into the house it's the pump!

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Hey all, thanks for the responses! I'm looking into plywood and was wondering if I should get 1/4" or 1/2". My rack has a length-wise rail down the center for extra support so it's rather sturdy.
It's $35-40 for a 4'x8' 1/2" sheet vs $20 for a 4'x8' 1/4" sheet (I guess that makes sense, since it is half the product, ha!)
I was going to have them cut the sheet to get one 18"x48" piece to go underneath the stand itself, because the room is carpeted, and four 15"x48" pieces to fit onto the shelves, (leaving me with one extra ~17"x48" sheet from the blade thickness).







Edit: ah, it seems I can get a 4'x8' 15/32" sheet for around $20. Problem solved, I suppose?


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Hi Ruuuey,

  Sounds like a well thought out project.  Here's a few suggestions based on 30+ years of residential remodel.

I myself would use 3/4" (23/32) plywood for the base to help distribute the weight better. Granted a 2'x4'project panel costs as much ($16) as a full sheet of 15/32" it has 5 layers vs. 3 layers for more rigidity.  I would also go with the 3/8" (11/32) yellow pine sheathing for the shelves.  Slightly thinner then 15/32 but more rigid at $15.  Also cutting to the full 18" width will get the added benefit of the shelf strength at the 90 degree edge.

 

   I would also consider some brackets/straps to anchor the rack to the wall. 700 pounds of water floating in the air is a lot of weight.  I have two 20g on a small rack and even with it anchored to the wall my 30 lb. grandson can cause the water to splash back and forth with a little pushing. (little Turd!)  If it was not attached I'm sure he could push it long enough to come crashing over.  Just like water moving in a tanker truck and it rolling over on the off ramp.   On that same rack I only have 4" of top space and trying to get something out of that tank without destroying the plantscape is a nightmare.

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10 hours ago, oem said:

Hi Ruuuey,

  Sounds like a well thought out project.  Here's a few suggestions based on 30+ years of residential remodel.

I myself would use 3/4" (23/32) plywood for the base to help distribute the weight better. Granted a 2'x4'project panel costs as much ($16) as a full sheet of 15/32" it has 5 layers vs. 3 layers for more rigidity.  I would also go with the 3/8" (11/32) yellow pine sheathing for the shelves.  Slightly thinner then 15/32 but more rigid at $15.  Also cutting to the full 18" width will get the added benefit of the shelf strength at the 90 degree edge.

 

   I would also consider some brackets/straps to anchor the rack to the wall. 700 pounds of water floating in the air is a lot of weight.  I have two 20g on a small rack and even with it anchored to the wall my 30 lb. grandson can cause the water to splash back and forth with a little pushing. (little Turd!)  If it was not attached I'm sure he could push it long enough to come crashing over.  Just like water moving in a tanker truck and it rolling over on the off ramp.   On that same rack I only have 4" of top space and trying to get something out of that tank without destroying the plantscape is a nightmare.

 

Hello OEM, and thank you for your suggestions! 

 

   I will follow your advice for the 3/4" plywood base. As for the sheets going on top of the shelving, I would have liked to cut the plywood to a full 18" depth, however, the poles holding up the rack are in the corners of the shelving, giving me a 15" (depth) clearance if I want to place the sheets between the poles. If I want the full 18" depth, I'd have to further trim the sheet length-wise so that the sheet measures 443/4"x18" to clear the poles. What would you suggest I do? Which option gives the most support?

 

Alternatively, I can get the plywood cut to the full 18"x48" and hacksaw the corners

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I have this shelf and I swapped out the flimsy particle board it came with, with plywood that fits perfectly in its place. Its actually a really strong shelf once you upgrade to plywood. You will need to wall anchor it though, just as with any free standing tall shelf. You won't need to hacksaw the corners... I know you said you are getting the other shelf but this is a good option for anyone following this thread, who needs a small rack and needs it to cost under $100 with all mods (swapping out the particle board for plywood)

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Edsal-72-in-H-x-48-in-W-x-24-in-D-5-Shelf-Steel-Commercial-Shelving-Unit-in-Black-UR-245WGB/202067997

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Hi all,

  Ruuuey,   If it was me I would have the full 18" width to give you the most support on the front and back 48". The extra work to cut the corners would not give much better support.  Glad you saw the actual dimension was smaller due to the size of the support pipe.  Some people miss that.

  For me, trying to cheap out a rack with $1,000 worth of equipment and animals seems silly.    I love a thread with lots of personal views and experiences. 

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21 hours ago, svetilda said:
I know, Soothing! Everyone recommended Alita pumps because they're so silent but mine is not... maybe I expected too much or maybe something is wrong with it...

Did you add an extra valve to bleed out some air so back pressure isn't built up in the air pump? I heard that it helps with the noise and prolongs the air pump's longevity.

Personally, bleeding out some of the air made my tetra whisper air pump more quiet.

Also, some people place their air pumps on some kind of mat / fabric / foam to dampen some of the vibration that causes the humming you hear

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21 hours ago, oem said:

 

  For me, trying to cheap out a rack with $1,000 worth of equipment and animals seems silly.    I love a thread with lots of personal views and experiences. 

I totally agree with you about not cheaping out, or risking a catastrophe because of cheaping out -but things can definitely be done safely on a budget. Ruuuey only has plans for 4 tanks and all are small... so his shelf choice even though its not my preference it can be made sturdy with his mentioned modifications.

 

I look forward to seeing pics of it Ruuuey! :)

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On 9/23/2016 at 8:31 PM, oem said:

Hi all,

  Ruuuey,   If it was me I would have the full 18" width to give you the most support on the front and back 48". The extra work to cut the corners would not give much better support.  Glad you saw the actual dimension was smaller due to the size of the support pipe.  Some people miss that.

  For me, trying to cheap out a rack with $1,000 worth of equipment and animals seems silly.    I love a thread with lots of personal views and experiences. 

 

    I agree OEM. It makes sense to take a few extra precautions to ensure the safety of our equipment/shrimp... (and to avoid possible damage to the house). What's a few extra dollars when compared to $1000 of livestock, as you said?

 

5 hours ago, dazalea said:

I totally agree with you about not cheaping out, or risking a catastrophe because of cheaping out -but things can definitely be done safely on a budget. Ruuuey only has plans for 4 tanks and all are small... so his shelf choice even though its not my preference it can be made sturdy with his mentioned modifications.

 

I look forward to seeing pics of it Ruuuey! :)

 

   dazalea, the rack is going to have a total of 6 tanks! (the 4 existing and I will be adding two 20L) 

So each shelf will end up with around 30 gallons of water + equipment/decor etc. The shelves are rated for 600 lbs each, so I'm hoping it will hold, especially with the extra plywood!

 

I went out and purchased the plywood today and will be working on setting up the rack in a few days. Stay tuned :)

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  • 1 month later...
On 11/20/2016 at 6:57 PM, chappy6107 said:

Hey ruuuey!  any update on the rack build?  curious to see how it came out.

Yep! It's almost completely set up. Just waiting for a few more items.

 

I'll probably make an update post sometime during the holiday weekend. :)

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