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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    Water parameters for cycling

    Depends on what remineralizer, for what kind of shrimp, and it is not related to cycling, it should be the same, before and after cycling. You will me mixing water for water changes or for the first filling the tank, all the same. Role of TDS in shrimp keeping. 1. Salty Shrimp makes for neocaridina and shrimp, living in above pH 7 water Shrimp Mineral GH/KH+. When mixed with RO water, it makes a healthy replacement for tap water. You could aim for 180-200 ppm TDS, but I would make it to 6 dGH. Worked for my neos well. Cherry and velvets are neos. 2. They also make Bee Mineral GH+, for soft water caridina (crystals, bees), for use with pH lowering substrate. It could be mixed anywhere from 80 to 150 ppm TDS, but I would aim for 5 dGH, also works well for my Taiwan bees. See Role of GH in shrimp keeping. But I am not an expert, started few years ago. TDS meter should be calibrated, and, when reading label, pay attention to units of measurements on it, it is in microsiemens (for EC pens) instead of ppm for TDS meters.
  2. 1 point

    The Journals of ThegardenofEder

    So back in Feburary I applied flea meds to my dogs just like I've done for the past 6 years of keeping shrimp. At roughly 1 pm. Only thing I did differently was I applied two doses to my big boy 140 lbs and i just happend to get my 72 inch lights in and thought there was no issue with the kids using the boxes for a sword fight just like we have done before. Around 4 or 5. Well after dinner and I got the kids to bed I sat down to play some call of duty and looked up and saw my fancy tigers zipping a zinging around the tank around 9 pm. Got my ladder out to take a closer look and saw the next tank also doing the same thing. Basically dog hair with the flea meds had gotten into all the open tanks in my living room where we had been sword fighting. Fancy tigers, dragons blood, pro, green tigers, tigers, tangtai, and tbs all took a hit. At one point I thought I was going to lose every shrimp in all 22 tanks that were contaminated. Shelby was in Atlanta and I had no idea what to do except jump into 50% water changes. I messaged a few shrimp friends and everyone just said damn sorry bro. Except Chaz Hing who told me to throw in some carbon. The only carbon I had or anything close to it was Aquachar that I just happend to have a few free sample from my buddy Brian Covey and quickly threw it into all the tanks. Within minutes I quickly saw my shrimp calming down and some flipped back over. Now I did lose some shrimp the tanks in the pic where the boxes are leaning on got hit the hardest. I really thought I was going to have to junk those tanks and restart from scratch on a few projects. However 2 months later and I'm happy to say all of the tanks are on the rebound. I even have babys in most of the tanks that were hit. Now really it took me so long to make this post because I wanted to see the long term effects I wasn't sure if the shrimp were going to breed or if it was going to effect the ph ect. Now I should of had lids on all the tanks that is on me and that has been taken care of now. However with out the Aquachar I should of easily been another horror story like I've seen many times in the past where pesticides have wiped out someone's colony or even their whole collection. I had a buddy who's mom bug bombed the house when they went to Disneyland. He put a bag around the tank and air pump and figured he was good. When he got home there was one dead shrimp in the tank. He used a net sitting on the counter that wasn't covered and it wiped out his whole colony of high grade fancy tigers. If he had just a bag of aquachar on him he could of prevented the whole massacre. Last but not least I need to thank Shelby Kaye Brown and Brandon Birdwell the two of them helped me keep it together and work through the night to save my shrimp.
  3. 1 point

    Beginning Nano Projects

    Here’s some Orange for yah! Some Tangerines that aren’t doing so well, and some Sakura in the White Tub. I was doing A water change, well dumping out some water back into the tank so I could restart the drip process. When I see little bright translucent specs zipping through the water lol, I almost dumped A whole bunch of baby fry out without even knowing!
  4. 1 point


    Week 3 Week 4
  5. 1 point


    Week 2 Look at that a black zebra pinto baby
  6. 1 point


    Danky808, not atm... but I do plan to set up separate tank for the fishbone breed out. I didn't notice during the first week but surprise I also have some black zebra babies. Must be from the fishbone male. Will try to post more pics later, things have been little busy.
  7. 1 point

    Beginning Nano Projects

    I’m ecstatic right now! Finally someone who actually stuck to his Guarantee! Everything packaged very carefully, and ALL shrimp alive and healthy!
  8. 1 point

    Waldo's in Trouble!

    They're holding it down so it doesn't shoot up to Waldo's behind. 😜😜
  9. 1 point

    Is my tap water any good for neos?

    I keep all of mine at room temp aside from my cardinal sulawesis that require more specific parameters. I try to keep my hobby as simple as possible for myself and for the shrimp as well. I've heard horror stories of heaters malfunctioning which could either cause it to shut off and drop the temp or constantly remain on and boil the shrimp. Even if it's not that likely, I didn't think it was worth the risk considering the shrimp would do just fine in room temp. I have about 15 or so tanks of neos, caridina and paracaridina and they all are doing very well and breeding for me just at room temp which I'm guessing can range from 68-75 F. As stated earlier, higher temps increase the shrimp's metabolism, so they grow faster, breed faster, and also die faster. I keep green jade neos with my cardinal sulawesis in a tank that's set at roughly 80-85 F and I've noticed that the neos are significantly smaller than the other neos I have that are kept at room temp. I've heard that high temps can cause the shrimps to not grow as large and at least in my experience that seems to be the case. But again, this is based on my research and personal experiences so if it's working for you I'd say stick with it. One of the mottos I try to keep with shrimp keeping is "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
  10. 1 point
    there is another option, well tried and tested in farm animal production and also in breeding dogs horses ornamental birds rodents etc the more Severe selection pressure the soon you reach your goal at the price of weakening your line due to narrowing genetic variability , and accumulation of deleterious traits. lets say this case would be breeding with the best 10 % of the population. you also reach earlier a point where there is no more improvement . another option is to apply a low selection pressure, say to remove the worst 10% of the population, your improvement is a lot slower but your population improves and you dont acumulate bad genes, also the improvement goes much further because you maintain a wide genetic diversity in your population and dont hit a dead spot where there is no more improvement
  11. 1 point

    Amano Shrimp just gave birth - HELP

    The larvae won't survive in freshwater because they require salinity to undergo metamorphosis. They will all get sucked into your filter, eaten, or eventually die.
  12. 1 point
    Thank you, will wait to see if color becomes better. Quality of pictures makes them useless, eye sees more. In general, it looks like most are wild type from solid orange female (bare bottom tank, born between 18 and 28 Jan, 70-72F), and too low quality orange rilis from the rest of females (black sand tank, born 2-3 weeks later, different ages).
  13. 1 point

    St Patty's Day Sale

    All homebred Shipping is $10 or free on orders over $50 Orange Sakura $4 each Yellow Neo $3 each Snow Ball $3 each Green Jade $5 each Emeralds $6 each Wild Neo $1 Tangerine Tigers $3 each Super Tigers $4 each Raccoon Tigers $9 each Hummel Tiger $9 each Golden Bees $3 each Ghost Bees $4 each Zebra Ghost Bees $12 each Shadow Pandas $12 each Yellow King Kongs $3 each OE YKK $10 each Yellow King Kong Rilli $11 each Tibee $2.50 each Tangtai $2.50 each Auratai $9 each Blue Steels $10 each
  14. 1 point

    March sales list

    All homebred Shipping is $10 or free on orders over $100 Orange Sakura $4 each Yellow Neo $4 each Snow Ball $3 each Green Jade $5 eacg Emeralds $7 each Wild Neo $1 Tangerine Tigers $4 each Super Tigers $5 each Raccoon Tigers $10 each Hummel Tiger $10 each Golden Bees $3 each Ghost Bees $4 each Zebra Ghost Bees $15 each Super Crystal Reds mixed patterns $8 each Shadow Pandas $15 each Yellow King Kongs $4 each OE YKK $10 each Yellow King Kong Rilli $12 each Tibee $3 each Tangtai $3 each Auratai $10 each Blue Steels $12 each
  15. 1 point
    Thank you very much! It makes more clear the practical part of this.
  16. 1 point

    Waldo's in Trouble!

    Haha. Nice shrimp, dude! The plants look great too. Looks like a very healthy system!
  17. 1 point
    (1)Personally I’d have your Parent Breeding Tank, this one will contain the select males and females of each type you FIRST chose to breed with.. (2)Then I’d have another tank just for the very first filial offspring/selection, then the parents of this first batch of offspring will stay in their new tank until later.. (3)Now all the offspring that I cull for what ever reasons may be, will be placed in A new separate tank. So as of right now the bare minimum I’d have is three new separate tanks for my single breeding project.. If there was room and the money, I’d prefer to have 1-2 additional tanks though. So I could keep the parents of each batch of Hybrid Offspring separately in separate male and female tanks. (1) Will Contain the OG Parents, The only male(s) and female(s) that aren’t the new hybrid you made... I say to keep these in their own tank throughout this project, if you ever decide to Do A Inbred Back Cross (2) Tank will be used for all the love making the selected parents from Each offspring. This is the tank that would require the most work/attention. (3) Now this 3rd tank would contain all the Culls, Or All the new Hybrid shrimp that didn’t make the cut.. FYI- ^ ^Still I’d pay attention to this tank, A new diamond could pop up in the rough. Since there’s all different genes/traits from all the new generations of the New Cross/Hybrid that would be breeding with each other. Possibly creating jaw dropping shrimp!!
  18. 1 point

    Bamboo shrimp feeding

    Not keeping them, but kept marine filter feeders, it somewhat similar. This article about bamboo shrimp has attached video, showing the process of feeding, you can estimate size of the necessary particles. Baby shrimp and fry food or powdered food for invertebrates (NutriGorg is buoyant, some of GoldenPearls at BrineShrimpDerect too) could be useful. Or even common fish or shrimp food could be make into powder and small amounts added to the water stream. Bacter AE , if not overdose, is also a possibility. But any powders could pollute water more than pellets in a dish (they could be removed), be careful not to spoil water. I did that once when started, now watching for it.
  19. 1 point
    I haven't tried any other remineralizing salt, but I've been using Salty Shrimp GH+ for my Caridina and GH/KH+ for my neos in the 5+ years I've been in this hobby with lots of success. As uuaaayyy stated, there are different sizes of the remineralizer you can buy. I bought the 450g one for about $20 on Amazon and I still have about 1/3 of it left after buying it about 5 months ago. How often you do water changes and how much water you take out also dictates how quickly you go through it. For me, I do water changes once a month taking out about 10% each time. I use 5 gallon buckets of RO water and add about 3/4 scoop to each bucket. I have 7 10 gallon tanks and 1 20 gallon tank with caridina in them, so it can last you a while. That being said, I've also heard good things about Brightwell Caridina GH+, which is a liquid remineralizer. I've never used it, but Rob from Flip Aquatics supports it and I've learned almost everything I know about shrimp keeping from him so I take his advice/opinions with high regards. I believe he did mention that it's more dilute so although it may be easier to dose and possibly cheaper, you'll likely run out of it faster if you have large volumes of water you need to remineralize. For me, if I'm spending a lot of money on the actual shrimps, especially caridina since they're pretty pricey, I try to spend a little extra to ensure that they'll have the best chance to live and breed. I've had solid results from Salty Shrimp remineralizers, it appears to have been in the hobby for a very long time, and many hobbyists/breeders/youtubers use it, which to me shows that it's an effective product. I'm the type of person who likes to go with the consistent products that have the most support, especially when dealing with live animals. I've tried to go with cheaper alternatives for different things in my shrimp tanks and have paid the price for them. Not to say I won't jump at a cheaper product/option if it's available and shown to be effective (this is definitely an expensive hobby so I can understand trying to save) but for me, what it always comes down to is risk vs reward. Is the savings you get from one product worth the risk of going with the more expensive but consistent product? That's what I also ask myself when I see shrimps I want for a cheaper price from a site I've never ordered from before (also paid the price for that mistake). Hope this helps!
  20. 1 point
    Dwarf shrimp water parameters, matches my experience, and for identifying species and water parameters for all other shrimp could be found on shrimp selling websites like ShrimpFever. I kept mine at 78F, they reproduced a lot, and at 72F, everything is a bit slower.
  21. 1 point

    Hang on back question

    Depends on flow rate, if it is the biggest Aqua Clear, it could be too much. 3x tank volume per hour was safe with dwarf shrimp for me.
  22. 1 point

    Bacteria outbreak?

    I had it on spiderwood without Stability. It didn't go away in few months and shrimp didn't touch it much, so removed and no longer using spiderwood, switched to mopani. It also could have slight coat of this, but shrimp clean it fast.
  23. 1 point

    Help! pests in my tank

    Reduce feeding and the population of seed shrimp and detritus worms will lessen over time. For snails, you can drop in a piece of lettuce and give it a couple of hours, then pull it back out. Lather, rinse, repeat until the population is under control.
  24. 1 point

    Help! pests in my tank

    If I was you, I’d scoop all the shrimp out into A clean bucket of water. Then if there was any plants I just couldn’t live without, it purchase from the fish store again. I’d take the ones I wanted and give them A quick rinse just to get debri and some of the pest off of them. Then place them into A bucket of their own. Once those first steps are finished, it’s time to work on the rest of the tank. I’d personally set that gravel or substrate aside, to do A thorough inspection and cleaning of it to use in the future. Replace it with fresh substrate because there’s most likely pest and baby snails not visible to the naked eye mixed in with it. ^(Or clean the heck out of the substrate and use hot water if your able to, then let it dry out in the sun until everything is completely dry. You should be able to mix the substrate around and not see moisture on anything)... Basically it’s like your setting up A new tank, once the new substrate is back into the tank that you cleaned very well. It’s now time to inspect any of the plants you wanted to keep, and I mean really inspect them lol.. You need to check 100% of the stems and leaves for snail eggs, look like A thin bubble almost with A texture of jelly underneath it’s coating. Then you can rinse them A couple more times just to be safe, before you place them back into the substrate.
  25. 1 point

    Is my tap water any good for neos?

    No worries mate! Moving is always "fun". Yeah, I remember titration from science class way back when, the fact that I never got the starting color just threw me for a loop! 🙃 I did make sure to cap and invert a time or two after every drop, although I admit by the third time I was just capping and giving a half hearted shake. I'm totally on board with RO or DI water, however the transport and storage would cause me issues and I can't afford an RO setup. Perhaps I could just get some GH+ to add in at least the required minerals up to preferred levels, or I might just bite the bullet and get a ZeroWater. I've been looking at those anyways for the hoomans, plus side - shrimps! Either way, I've got a starting point. I'm slowly accumulating the equipment, I'm going to go buy substrate next week. Gonna go Walstad I think with a large grain sand/ small grain gravel cap but I can't find any stones to use for my aquascape that I like that don't cost a zillion dollars with shipping. Any way I slice it though, this tank isn't even gonna be cycling for at least a month. 😕 Chickies come first... 🐣
  26. 1 point
    So my assumption is that you're using Tap Water? You won't want to utilize that with Active Substrate. Pick up RO or Distilled Water, or better yet an RO unit, then you can remineralize to your desired gH. Here is what will happen if you use Active Substrate with your water (I'm assuming your kH is pretty high). 1. You will exhaust the buffering properties of the soil very quickly and end up with inert substrate. 2. When you do water changes, your pH will fluctuate. Say that your pH in the tank is 6.7. You remove 10% of the water and add tap water. Your pH will swing up rapidly in to the low 7s' and the substrate will try to pull it back down to that 6.7. This will happen at every water change until the substrate finally exhausts. When it does your pH will swing rapidly up to that 8.8pH you mentioned above. Most, if not all of the shrimp won't survive that. You could look in to Sulawesi Shrimp, they may be a fit for your tap as it is. They require warmer temps and dine almost exclusively on Algae and Biofilm.
  27. 1 point
    Water with no kH and no active substrate (or something to keep the pH stable) will have pH fluctuations. pH readings would change from night to day, especially in a planted tank.
  28. 1 point

    shrimp Tanks

    Going to nature... in 180lt Tanks is a ~week, its not ready yet, but you can see a small video .
  29. 1 point
    Today I came across some green babaulti and just while I was aclimating then 4 of them berried up. Also got a baby taitibee that almost looks like a red king Kong dragon. More updates soon working hard to set up as many tanks as possible.
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