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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Packing is important, your boxes need to be well insulated to keep the temp fluctuations to a minimum. I also like to line mine with polystyrene foam to insulate and provide some crush resistance. Breather bags, an appropriate amount of water, purigen and something for the shrimp to hang on to during transit. Shipping is usually done via USPS Priority Mail. They will give you 7x7x6 boxes for free, you simply need to tape them together and add your label. Speaking of labels, you can print labels directly from Paypal, or use USPS Click N Ship. As for pricing, charge what you think is fair for the shrimp and shipping. You're a hobbyist so your pricing is going to be far less than what you'll see at a retail shop, but quality will likely be much higher. Communication is important! - Clearly communicate with your customers and let them know when you're shipping, what your DOA Policy is, what their tracking number is, what type of shrimp are being shipped. Let me know if you want a test subject when you're ready to ship, I'm more than willing to help with packaging (you've received shrimp from me before so you know how I package) or willing to be your first shipment. This way I can provide constructive feedback if needed.
  2. 2 points
    Hello all! I wanted to start a journal showcasing my newest tank. A 10 gallon "all-in-one" deal by Innovative Marine. Low iron, high clarity! So far, my only mod is the poret foam back wall, purchased from Swiss Tropicals (thanks, Stephan!).
  3. 2 points
    EverStuff

    Ghost Bee x Aura Blues

    Ghost Bee x Aura Blue babies. I definitely see some white striping coming in. Now just to wait to see if they get a blue body from the Auras, or stay clear like the Ghosts. I'm also dreaming of the start of a zebra Ghost pattern if they stay clear. I have another berried female that I'm seeing eyes in the eggs. Should be hatching soon. Same cross.
  4. 2 points
    Shrimp Life

    winter breeding

    I just wanted to update on my shrimp room breeding this winter, since I last posted we have since had some severe cold weather in late January and many of my tanks have slowed down or completely stopped breeding for the last month. Prior to January I did not experience severe cold weather as we have in the last 5-6 weeks. I suspect the sudden swing in temps has something to do with it. My normally prolific tanks are slow. Since it is already March I am anticipating that they should get going again by April (fingers crossed) Will update when they get going again!
  5. 2 points
    zenster

    winter breeding

    One of my CRS got berried a couple of weeks ago in the middle of a huge snowstorm here in Ontario Canada. Not sure what the barometric pressure was but the water temp is at a constant 20C all year round.
  6. 2 points
    Shrimpbynight

    Blue tibees

  7. 2 points
    madcrafted

    winter breeding

    There are very few published papers on neo/caridina breeding. One of the ones that I've ran across mentions the affects of temperature and very little on photo period, being it was at a constant 12/12 schedule throughout the entire study. This was for the RCS too, btw. Crystals and other bee shrimp have even fewer studies and ALOT of speculation printed on the web. We do know that metabolism and growth slow down in cooler waters as does reproduction. So temperature is a big one. Not so sure about light myself being as I keep a shorter photo period than most at 7-8 hours of light. I have shrimp berried right now but these are hybrids (tibees and galaxy pintos). My PRL's aren't doing anything in these unheated tanks. Temps are between 62-65° F for the last month or so. I'm chalking it up to temperature. What these temperature thresholds are for each given species/sub-species is hard to say but I'd be willing to guess at 68°, my PRLs will be getting busy. It may very well be speculation to say the sex ratio of offspring is also affected by temperature for these particular species. From a logical standpoint, it makes sense that there will be higher percentages of female offspring in cooler water where food sources are abundant in early Spring but this is with wild shrimp, not ornamental shrimp that have been selectively bred for many generations. However, there are reports on the internet of breeders seeing a higher percentage of female offspring during winter breedings. Hardly concrete evidence but worth observing in our own tanks.
  8. 1 point
    EverStuff

    Ghost Bee x Aura Blues

    So happy to see a hint of blue and a few white stripes on these little tiny peewees.
  9. 1 point
    Jcstomp

    Uncycled Tank.

    Sure thing. Just remember youre trying to keep that temp water clean as poss, so use baster and suck out any pellet not eaten after an hour or so. Sitting food will toxify water fast but the powder is ok if very light.
  10. 1 point
    ImDisclose

    Uncycled Tank.

    Thanks for the advice! I’ll look for one as soon as I get home.
  11. 1 point
    Jcstomp

    Uncycled Tank.

    You might have to keep them in remineralized R/O water in a smaller one gallon container or whatever for a week or two with some moss and change water every 2-3 days. Just know theres no algea film to feed on so light pellets and mabye very light amount of powder food.
  12. 1 point
    Update. I have had the shrimp in the tank for a little over a week. Water: ended up going with RO water and Seachem Equilibrium, but am changing it to Sera Shrimp Mineral. Too much potassium in the Seachem product. Can't run a reasonable Gh-Kh balance below the 230s TDS. Food: right now, I am just feeding a few granules of Sera Shrimps Natural each day, but have Bacter AE (from what I've read, an essential food) and the sampler of Shrimp King foods from Dennerle Solution to the filter chamber problem in the Fluval Flex 9 is pictured here. I put plastic knitting mesh behind the intake, with coarse foam holding it tightly against the wall of the chamber. Hopefully, it'll be enough to keep the babies out. Other than one odd shrimp death, all seems well. We shall see how week two goes. More pictures to come. The floaters have covered the entire top of the tank and I have to prune regularly. Hopefully, I manage to shake loose all of the shrimp that hang out there when I move plants.
  13. 1 point
    Well, this is my first dedicated shrimp tank. It is finally cycled (also my first fishless cycle). Other than nailing down my water specs (planning to run with tap water, not RO), which I will be working on over the next week, do any of you see anything regarding setup that I should alter to make it more shrimp friendly? Any advice appreciated. The plan is for some colorful Neocaridina. I am not decided on the color. Thanks.
  14. 1 point
    Jcstomp

    Red galaxy pinto X Deep blue bolt

    Thank you EverStuff. I am excited for this project to work out and have a strong blue galaxy pinto strain. Ill make sure you get first dibs👍. It looks like my new deep bb might be female so once shes berried and has her fry, I will be auctioning off a few of the fry. Id say prob in about 4 months. Also will start auctioning the other fry from main tank soon.
  15. 1 point
    EverStuff

    Red galaxy pinto X Deep blue bolt

    Wow, these are beautiful. Keep going with this so I can buy some ❤️
  16. 1 point
    Jcstomp

    Red galaxy pinto X Deep blue bolt

    Just wanted to give an update on a few selected gen1 I have in a seperate setup. I have 3 generations now in my main from my red galaxy pinto x Deep blue bolt project to make blue galaxy pintos. So far gen1 about 60% turned dark almost black like but still blue tint and the other 40% are really nice blue which are the one I have selected. I got a new deep blue bolt to breed with the ones I selected to try and strengthen the blue.
  17. 1 point
    Hi All! Today only, $70 shipped (Limited) 10 Mixed Black Pintos, Homebred by me, peewee-juvie sized (mixed patterns like spotted head, multistripe, zebra, belly etc) Plus 2x 1.25" Moss ledges, 30g. Snowflake food, NL Moss & Cameroon Moss Portions USPS Priority Mail
  18. 1 point
    Feed Snowflake, Mulberry Leaves and with that many shrimp there should not be leftovers. Sell shrimp to minimize your colony number. Do more frequent small water changes, they are hardy and should do well. If you don't feed enough they will start eating other shrimp and attacking molting shrimp. I find that the attacking of molting shrimp occurs when there is a high population of shrimp and not enough space or food
  19. 1 point
    craycrayphish

    Shrimp Shelf

    Hey, I've been using this forum to guide my journey with shrimp. Thank you all for sharing your experiences! I have a 12g, 7g, 6g, and 3g. The 6g and 3g are a few days old and I have ordered some shrimps for them (Aura Tiger plus extras of what I have). I am currently trying to breed them and started in November 2018. I've had 3 successful batches with 50% survival rate but they stopped since December. My Neos have started berrying but the Caridina haven't. The parameters are are within: 6.0-6.4 pH 135ppm-160ppm TDS 5-6 GH 65F-68F The 12g has fish but I'm trading them so I can add my RKKs into it. It will probably remain heavily planted, just trimmed more often. The 7g has all my Caridina and Blue Dreams. I plan on keeping my Blue Bolts, Shadow Pandas, and BKKs here. The 6g will house my Aura Blue Tigers and OEBT/(Royal Blue). I plan on removing the lid off my fluval and add an egg crate barrier to keep adults separated. I need to add some more substrate, then plants The 3g will house my ~15 Thai Spider Crabs and my Tangerine Tigers. I need some more substrate and then add some trimmings in. Sent from my VS835 using Tapatalk
  20. 1 point
    Snailer

    1 DAY SALE BLACK PINTOS MOSS FOOD

    Awesome deal from great seller!
  21. 1 point
    OblongShrimp

    Is this shrimp berried?

    It doesn't look like it but it is hard to tell at that angle.
  22. 1 point
    EverStuff

    Little Shrimp Rack

    I went through a hell of a learning curve over the last year. Went from not knowing anything and learning as I went, taking advice and realizing that just because it works for someone else doesn't mean it will work for me and my tanks. Now I have berried females all over the place, and babies growing to adult size and starting to reproduce another generation. I keep a journal of what works for me and what doesn't.
  23. 1 point
    cdomingo117

    Ghost Bee x Aura Blues

  24. 1 point
    Hi Everyone, It seems like I will be able to sell homebred Caridina Babaulti Stripped/Zebra in few months (don't know exactly, but definitely before near the end of this year). Anyways, I just want to know some rule of thumb you have or advice when you sell your shrimps. This is a general and a broad question. I want to be prepared when the time comes. Any input is very appreciated. Here are some sample topics that I can think of: packaging (ways to properly pack shrimps, materials to purchase), shipping (options and cost), shrimp price (market vs. personal evaluation), number of shrimp per order, DOA policy, etc.
  25. 1 point
    nicpapa

    winter breeding

    Hello there. How is your breeding routines going? it have been years now , that shirmps dont breed in winter, i keep aroud 20 tanks. Shrimps stop breeding from novemer to march. Temp no plays role, i keep tanks without heat and tanks with heat , also some tanks with more light and some wiht less. I saw crs breeding in 15c,,,, and in another tank with 22 c from 200-300 srhimps no one breeding with same light. After a lot of research the only think that it play roles in winter is barometric presure. The crazy is that a friend living here , he saw some breeding in winter. The only think its in my mind is that my shrimp room dont have a good insulation so barometric presure is the same as outside... In house with a good insulation aircodition can change the barometric presure, and keep it stable . What is your opinion about breeding in winter ?
  26. 1 point
    nicpapa

    winter breeding

    A video that confirm that temp dont playes role... cbs tanks is room temp without heat, about 16-17,c crs is with a heater at 21-22c... Both tanks start in the same time of yeart breeding.. I take a video i catch them both tank male dancing. :)
  27. 1 point
    ILikeAsianBooty

    winter breeding

    I have a heater vs non heater and both tanks are still the same. Breeding slow this winter.
  28. 1 point
    TigerBarb1017

    winter breeding

    I don't know I'm a noob but my neos are saddling and berrying. I'm expecting 2 of them to hatch within the next week. And my caridina just gave birth about 10 days ago. If I had to make a wild guess I would have thought temperature and sunlight hour change would be the trigger for spawning before barometric pressure. Then again that's just a wild guess. Forgive me but I'm not understanding how barometric pressure affects underwater pressure. Can anyone break it down for me? Also I watched your video on the topic last night @Shrimp Life 👍
  29. 1 point
    EverStuff

    Little Shrimp Rack

    YAY BABIES!!!!
  30. 1 point
    Looks cool. Lets see how you fill it up!
  31. 1 point
    9thdragon

    Chollawood

    Cholla Wood Skeletons are the remains after a cholla plant dies. It is a soft wood which provides a food source for biofilm that shrimp will feed on, similar to what leaves do. The cholla's may holes provides hiding places for shrimp after they molt or when they are feeling vulnerable. The wood will eventually break down and disppear but it will take at least a year for the thinnest pieces and much much longer for the thicker ones. 10 pcs Cholla Wood $10 plus shipping $8
  32. 1 point
    NewtoShrimp

    SHRIMP LIFE My youtube channel!

    I found your site before I found this forum. Very helpful for someone completely new to shrimp keeping. Thank you.
  33. 1 point
    afeather

    shrimp Tanks

    Wow!! Your tanks are quite nice. So many crystals! Thanks for sharing; looking good.
  34. 1 point
    Zoe13

    winter breeding

    My fire red shrimp (neos) had slowed down (but not stopped) their breeding in winter. I have had success in speeding it up again by doing a tiny water change almost every day. I change 1 gallon on my 20 gallon. I aim for every day but realistically it ends up being 5 days per week that I do the tiny water change.
  35. 1 point
    AquaticShrimpNoob

    winter breeding

    @nicpapa This is indeed very interesting topic. I have seen many people talk about slow breeding or no breeding in winter or cold season. Most people hypothesized that this is caused by atmospheric pressure change in cold season. I do read publish papers too (high five!!). In fact, most of my info about shrimps are from these. I stopped inquiring from other shrimpers due to inconsistency and lack of fundamentals. Most of the things that catch my attention, I do take with a grain of salt and then inquire principles and understanding first before I take them seriously. My advice, however, is be careful on interpreting publish papers. As you have mentioned, you got these information from se shrimps and culture in ponds. See here that volume and depth are not identical to regular aquariums. But I am aware that these small change in atmospheric pressure can affect dwarf shrimps due to their biology and size. To be fair, I only have one shrimp tank besides my other freshwater aquarium (for now, I really want to focus on just one shrimp tank). I don't have much observations as most of you with multiple tanks do so I can't speculate more than this. However, I am very thankful for these observations because I can use them on my own personal shrimp care. I am also happy @nicpapa and @Shrimp Life for producing such speculations using combinations of observations and principles/fundamentals.
  36. 1 point
    Shrimp Life

    winter breeding

    I have 1 window but I think its helping that I am leaving the lights on longer, mimicking the long daylight of spring and summer. Normally our sun rises at 8am and sets at 430pm in winter. I have the lights on from 8am-8pm . The barometric pressure today is 1016.2 in my town
  37. 1 point
    Shrimp Life

    winter breeding

    Its a very interesting topic. I normally experience only a slow down in breeding and not a complete stop. Last year only 1 tank out of 12 stopped breeding completely. The others still bred but just not at the same rate as they do in spring and summer, but its not a huge breeding decline. This winter we have much milder temps then last year. out of 12 tanks, everyone is breeding except for 1 tank. I keep my home at 70 degrees and lights are on for 12 hours a day. I think light cycle may play a part because I intentionally leave my lights on longer to try to mimic spring/summer daylight hours and I do notice a difference. There is nothing scientific to substantiate any of this but I am happy with my winter breeding, I have as many berried females right now as I do in spring (Neos and Caridina).
  38. 1 point
    nicpapa

    winter breeding

    I dont know if barometric pressure plays role but its play for some fish, and i read it lot in the forums, also in a paper for sea shrimps , culture in ponds , i read they measure for 6 months all the data , also have data for barometric pressure. Oxygen is beter in cold water than hot water that is true. Temps affect shrimp grow slower and leave more. Yes that i was thinking , temp fluctuation is more in summer . Maybe they dont like stable temp? haha 😀 If they dont breed in winter why to use heaters? I never loose a shrimp from cold water, i made a test in the previous year with crs. Now also have tanks without heater and temp goes 13-14c in the waters. Snowballs and neos breed in those temps not a lot but you can see pregrants srhimps. Plants still grow but slower. I made a small video to see activity in 14 c vs 22c . Srhimps looks fine . Cbs is without a heat, then crs tank have a heat to22c and the other tanks crs dont have a heat, and in this tank i saw pregrand , also in tanks without heaters had babies. Sorry for the quality of the video its from mine phone.
  39. 1 point
    nicpapa

    winter breeding

    I change my lights to 13 hours from 8 hours i had them I know about the plants how react to temp and lights. If we talk about heat at March April when they became to breed , temp dont play a role, its the same temp when you use heater.. I will try to make a comparison with day lights when they stop breed and when they breed. Your temp is fine with shrimps, my shrimp room , because i dont leave there goes to 13-14c ~ 55F I cant heat all the tanks, its 20 tanks , i use heaters to 10 tanks keeping temp 21-22c and sullawesi 26c.
  40. 1 point
    AquaticShrimpNoob

    winter breeding

    @nicpapa Interesting observation. However, to state something like this, there has to be some connection/speculation (e.g. why does barometric pressure affect shrimp breeding?). But an observation is an observation. You are not making up something. So this might be something indeed. Theoretically speaking, oxygen solubility is better in cold water compare to warm water. However, shrimps activity are lower in cold water than warm water. Taking temperature out of the screen (assuming that temperature is indeed CONSTANT = does not change EVER), there might be some outside factor that affects shrimps' breeding in winter. That factor, I do not know. However, I have not seen any papers that explains this phenomena. @TheGlassBox I have seen papers that supports the effect of photoperiod. I would be very interested in learning form the results of your experiment. BTW, please perform a control sample so that you can compare your results. There are other parameters that affects shrimp breeding. And I believe that everyone is doing what they can to achieve optimum breeding. Constant temperature is difficult to achieve but not complicated. If you have a temperature controlled room, this is very easy (e.g. basement, etc). But for most of us, air conditioning is the closest thing that we got. But year around, house temperature varies depending on the temperature outside. One can get a chiller, but this does not mean that your temperature will be constant due to temperature fluctuations. However, you can minimize the fluctuation by insulation. That said, there will be less temperature fluctuation in winter compare to summer. There are other factors that also affects temperature such as lighting and filtration.
  41. 1 point
    TheGlassBox

    winter breeding

    I don't think an air conditioner would do it as they pull air from inside a room, cool it and push the same air back into the same room. They don't take air from the outdoors. So there would be no net change. It would need to be something like an exhaust fan, but in reverse so it took air from outdoors and pumped it in. Well, now you've got the Science Nerd in me going LOL! I've always wanted to try the light experiment, just never got the time... It would take probably 2 months at least. If you try it, try running the lights for only say, 5 hours for a month. Then increase it to maybe 10 or 12 hours. That kind of thing will trigger plants to bloom or fruit. And if there's a window in the room, pull the shade and close the curtains to make it as dark as possible when the lights are out. If there's too much light leaking in, it might be enough to trigger a normal day cycle for them, as opposed to the artificial one you're trying to create. And it doesn't take much. Plants at least are very sensitive to that. The only other thing I could think of that might cause it would be temperature. I don't use heaters in any of my caridinia tanks, so they're always at room temperature. I live in Maine (USA) so room temperature can be around 67 in the winter, whereas in the summer it climbs to the upper 70s as I don't use air conditioning in the room that I keep the tanks. Maybe they sense the gradual temperature change? Do you use heaters in your tanks?
  42. 1 point
    nicpapa

    winter breeding

    I cant prove it.. Do you know if aircodition can change a litle the pressure? I saw breeder, use it all the winter. The only think i can do it playing wiht lights again. I add in one tank more ligh , and more hours. In the past i try and 14hours.. but nothing happens.
  43. 1 point
    TheGlassBox

    winter breeding

    Yes, but did you ever try varying the light cycle? Or is it kept constant all the time? It's the shortening of day-length that causes leaves to turn red in the autumn and many plants (like apples) to form fruit. But that's for plants. It was just a thought... The barometric pressure data looks like an interesting possibility. But how could you prove it? You'd need a room in your house that you could manipulate the pressure... I worked in a positive pressure clean room for many years when I worked in a lab. The room was sealed and air tight. Then fans blew extra air into the room to increase the pressure inside, so there was always a whoosh of air rushing out of the room when you opened the door. The idea is that dust, bacteria etc. is less likely to enter the room if air rushes out rather than is pulled into the room. Then you'd have to have something to control the pressure at a set point... It'd be a tough one to prove. And probably impractical to use it to induce breeding for most people. But it's a great hypothesis! 😊
  44. 1 point
    nicpapa

    winter breeding

    Barometric pressure must have something to do with this. i was reading a chart wiht hPa . Below is months and the average values of the months This is from my place for year 2018. 1 1015.4 2 1014.1 3 1013.4 4 1011.8 5 1011.6 6 1009.8 7 1007.0 8 1007.5 9 1011.4 10 1011.6 11 1016.4 12 1015.6 You can see that in months wth the red ,shrimps dont breed So it must have some reration with hpa. So how can we trick them to breed?
  45. 1 point
    nicpapa

    winter breeding

    The place i have them dont have lot of day light. You can try to put more lights , but i never saw somethin happens.
  46. 1 point
    TheGlassBox

    winter breeding

    Yeah, I've noticed the same thing. My Neos breed year round, but all my caridinias seem to slow down or stop during the winter. I always wondered if day length had something to do with it like it does for many plants. I have lights on some of my tanks, but they're within view of a window. Perhaps the lights don't fool them if they can see the light in the rest of the room getting brighter and dimmer with the time of year? The only way to test that theory would be to set up a tank in a room with no windows, or to cover up the windows and then put lights on a timer. Start out with shorter light intervals and then slowly increase and see if they start breeding. I've actually thought of trying it LOL!
  47. 1 point
    rwong2k

    winter breeding

    great topic for discussion. i notice my neos, tangerine tigers, oebt, sulawesi breed all year. my taiwan bee, pintos i notice less berried during the winter months. ive always wonder if it was the atmospheric pressure similar to wet and dry seasons for some apistos Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  48. 1 point
    Lightweight

    diy shrimp food

    Hi, I would split your ingredients not add more Focus on different batches with specific goals in mind . For example Adding soya and peas is redundant. Both high in protein Make one batch with protein as main aim Another batch with calcium in mind etc. My recipes: all powder certified organic used. Protein batch twice a week feed 1. Pea powder 3 scoops 2. Spinach 1 scoop 3. Bee pollen 1/2 scoop 4. Moringa 1/2 scoop 5. Agar agar a pinch Daily feed or when I want to ( all leaves dried and made into powder by me then made in pellet form 1. Mulberry leaves 2. Nettle leaves 3. Dandelion leaves 4. Amaranth leaves 5. Bee pollen Agar agar Equal parts on all 5 items . Molting feed: 2 x week 1. Soya hulls 2 scoops 2. montmorillonite 1/3 scoop 3. Kelp 1 scoop 4. Spinach 1/2 scoop 5. Mulberry 1/2 scoop Agar agar
  49. 1 point
    Sylvester

    Step by Step Cycling Techniques

    I thought that maybe some absolute beginners might be interested in my experience of cycling an entirely new tank. My experience was that the cycle kicked in at week-4 and by week-5 was established. I should stress that I started the tank 100% from scratch. I didn't have another tank from which I could pull any 'starter' material. The tank was 12l with a Maxi Power Head Pump (6W, 400L/hr) and a 25w heater. It also had a ceramic filter, carbon filter and 5.75w light, all of which came with the kit. My base-layer was Tropica Plant Growth Substrate covered by 'Pets At Home' Premium Black Gravel. Into this base I placed five plants; Cryptocoryne Amicorum, Cryptocoryne Nevellii, Echinodorus Parviflorus Tropica, Hygrophila Mini and Java Moss (on wood). I then added POTW (plain old tap water) treated with 'Love Fish' Tap Safe and switched everything on. After one week, I did a water test: CL2 – 0 pH – 8 KH -15-20 (d) GH – >21 (d) NO2 – 5 (mg/l) NO3 – 25 (mg/l) I was actually surprised that the nitrite and nitrate levels were relatively low, but clearly, the nitrogen cycle hadn't kicked in. At the end of the second week I did another water test before doing a 25% water change: CL2 – 0.8 (up) pH – 8 (no change) KH -15-20 (no change) GH – >21 (no change) NO2 – 5 (no change) NO3 – 50 (up) I was a little surprised by the increase in CL2, but everything else was as expected. I think that the increase in Nitrate was probably because the cryptocorynes were both suffering from 'melt' and I suspect that as the leaves decayed they were releasing nitrates into the water. At the end of the third week I did another water test before a 25%b water change: CL2 – 0.4 (down) pH – 7.6-8 (no significant change) KH -15-20 (no change) GH – >21 (no change) NO2 – 0-0.5 (down) NO3 – 10 (down) It seemed as if the nitrogen cycle was now starting to kick-in because the numbers were starting to come down. At the end of the fourth week I did another water test before a 25% water change: CL2 – 0 (steady) pH – 8-8.4 (up) KH -20 (up) GH – >21 (no change) NO2 – 0 (steady) NO3 – 0 (down) So, at that time I made the assumption that the nitrogen cycle was operating. Since then, I've continued to monitor the water quality on a weekly basis. I keep the tank at 25C and have the light on for 12h per day. I swap out ~25%-30% of the water every week using a narrow tube. It typically takes 15-20 minutes to syphon 25%-30% of the water out of the tank (during which time I do some general tank cleaning) and another 15-20 minutes to syphon fresh (tap) water back into the tank. My neocaridina seem happy with this approach, and it was roughly 2 months after adding juvenile shrimp to the tank that I spotted my first 'berried' female.
  50. 1 point
    mayphly

    Post Your Shrimp Pics

    Come on! Who wouldn't want these hanging out in their tank! Lol!
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