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fujiija

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About fujiija

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  1. I would like to move a planted spiderwood from one tank to another. The old tank had scuds and planaria so I did an alum soak at 2 T/gallon of water for one day. I have been soaking the wood for another few days now in clean water. Is it safe to put the wood back into a new shrimp tank? I know it's safe to use plants that have been soaked but what about spiderwood? Thanks.
  2. I just did some measurements using my API test kits. My substrate is Controsoil that was new in January of this year. Ammonia = 0 Nitrite = 0 Nitrate = 5ppm pH = 6.4 KH = 0 GH = 8 TDS = 160 temp = 76 degrees I remineralize RO water using Salty Shrimp GH+. In order for me to get to TDS 100 (which everyone says I should not go below), I need to get the GH to about 7. I know this is a little high but the shrimp were doing well. Now my tank is at TDS 160 and when I do a water change, I keep changing it with KH=0 GH=7 water. Not sure why my TDS in the tank is now GH 8 as I try to be careful and top off with RO water. The temp in my basement is 74 degrees but I have a Fluval C2 HOB and that raises the temp to 76 degrees. It's been at 76 for most of the summer. I am contemplating switching to a sponge filter so my temp will be lower at 74 degrees without that HOB heating up the water a bit. Thanks in advance for any help.
  3. I have a 8 gal tank that started with maybe a total of 20 CRS, CBS, and Fancy Tigers in January. They bred like crazy and I have given away or separated out well over 100 shrimp. I still have another 100 left in the original 8 gal tank. The tank is heavily planted and I have cholla wood, mosses, and leaf litter in addition to spider wood, java fern, anubias, and rotala in the tank. There are a lot of plants. In the past two months, I had no babies. The 100 or so shrimp are all adults and I see many, many berried females. But no babies. Is my tank overcrowded? Are the babies not surviving because of lack of biofilm? I have been overfeeding with Repashy Soilent Green, snowflake, and other assortment of foods to hopefully keep the adults from cleaning out the biofilm but I am actually not sure what I should be doing. I have Bacter AE and started dosing a small amount maybe two or three times a week. I have to clean my HOB filter each week because it filters out so much gunk which I suspect is uneaten food. My shrimp are active and look like they start to swarm if I don't feed them every day. I have set up a new 10 gallon tank and will move my colony there in addition to continuing to give some culls away to my friends to reduce the colony size. Is there anything else I should be doing other than decreasing the colony size and putting them in a bigger tank? Is dosing Bacter AE the right thing to do assuming I don't have enough biofilm for baby survival?
  4. I use a paint pen from the crafts store. I write the name of the moss or plant on the front glass of the tank (or at the bottom of the tank). This is the same pen they use as the fish store - a friend of mine who owns a store uses that instead of a waxed pencil marker. You use a razor to scrape it off. Works really well.
  5. I converted a 6 gal planted tank from a fish/betta tank to a neo shrimp tank. I used to vaccum the gravel each week and do a water change at the same time when I had fish in there. Since I converted to remineralized RO and put shrimp in the tank (took the fish out), I added leaf litter, one cholla wood, and and two alder cones. It's heavily planted from the fish days and I only do about a 15% water change each week and don't vacuum the gravel anymore as it sounds like the shrimp don't need or like big water changes. I have a lot of orange shrimp babies in there now. I just removed a big catappa leaf that was all eaten up and realized there was a pile of brown mulm underneath. Should I be sucking all that mulm up? All the photos I see of other tanks show spotless substrate and I am now wondering if I have been neglectful and should have been sucking up some mulm with the water changes. How clean is the tank suppose to be? I have lots of moss, subwassertang, anubias, and crypts in the tank that has been up and running for two years.
  6. I just started up my neo shrimp tank again after have some miserable failures in the past due to water quality. I finally went to a RO system and that is making all the difference in the world. So I am new at this too but read a lot here. Here is what I figured out in a nutshell: By far the remineralizer of choice seems to be Salty Shrimp GH+. I believe it's a combination of cost and works well. Buy the small bottle because you are using so little that it'll last forever (I bought the GH+ instead of GH and KH together just in case I decided to raise Caridina, which require KH at or near 0). For raising KH, it looked like a lot of people use Seachem Alkaline Buffer so I bought that too. So my remineralization is a two powder measuring process which is ok. I bought a TDS pen off Amazon (there are tons of them - I just went to the cheapest with the best reviews and with temp compensation) and I started adjusting with GH+ which looked like about a TDS of 100 (GH = 6) and then I add Alkaline buffer to get TDS up another 50 to 150 (KH = 5 at that point). That's how the math worked out for me starting with TDS of 4 coming out of my RO unit. I also double checked my GH and KH values using the test kits. I am trying real hard not to overthink or overcomplicate this. My orange shrimp are breeding and happy.
  7. Wow! GH of 3? Lower than I thought. Good to know. Is there any "bible" of shrimp water quality that I should read? Water quality is such an important factor and hard to set up a tank without getting into it. Remineralization was a whole academic exercise in itself and navigating all the brands is something I have barely scratched the surface. Seems all overwhelming at times and I haven't even gotten to the foods!
  8. Yes! Moved the HOB last weekend after Xmas and that will give it about 3 weeks time to adjust to the new water conditions before the shrimp show up. Since the tank set up is new (it's a 8 gal tank) I put in some hasbrosus corys just to keep something eating and pooping in there to feed the filter. I will take out the corys before I put the shrimp in as I hear they might actually eat baby shrimp. I will monitor the water parameters during the next three weeks just to make sure all is well. I also added a simple aquascape with boiled spiderwood and plants, plus I put in some cholla wood and leaves to get some biofilm started. Can't wait for the shrimp to show up!
  9. OK - I think I get it now. Seems that the TDS will depend on what product you add to increase the GH. Salty Shrimp GH+ is "less dirty" compared to other products so it'll take up the GH but the TDS will rise less than if I used other products. I will add more Salty Shrimp GH+ and take my GH up to 6 (currently 4) just to get the TDS up higher. I was not planning on adding anything else to the tank (no fertilizers of any kind) if I can get up to TDS 120 just with Salty Shrimp. If needed, I also have EI fertilizers and can carefully add some micronutrient solution just to get the TDS up a little higher. I realize that evaporation and other organics can also increase TDS over time so I'll be careful.
  10. Thank you! So every person using RO or RO/DI water must be adding something (like Mosura TDS up) in order to take their TDS level up high enough for Caridina shrimp? I read a number of threads about remineralization and I am surprised hardly anybody mentions that the TDS will end up too low at GH 4 and therefore you need to add something else to take it back up to 100-180.
  11. I am setting up a tank for CRS and CBS. The shrimp will be sent to me in two weeks. It seems everybody uses Salty Shrimp GH+ so I bought it. I also read that the water should be GH about 4, and KH = 0 for CRS and CBS. I added Salty Shrimp GH+ and got to GH 4 as measured by my API test kit. My new TDS meter reads about TDS 65. I figured this makes sense because each degree of GH is 17.9 so 17.9 x 4 = 71, which is close to the 65 that I got on my TDS meter. I looked on some other sites like Discobee and they suggest a TDS of 100-180. How do you get to a TDS of that level when KH = 0? What do I add to my water to get to a TDS that high? I must be missing something here.
  12. I seeded a HOB filter with biomedia that came from a pH 7.4, GH 10, kH 7, TDS 250 tank. I want to use it in a new CRS tank that will probably end up having a pH in low 6's, GH 4, kH 2 and I don't know what the TDS will be but something below 150 I think. Will my bacteria survive the move? Or did I do this all for nothing? I don't have the CRS yet and won't be here for another 3 weeks.
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