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wyzazz last won the day on March 21

wyzazz had the most liked content!


About wyzazz

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    Danny Robert
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    Tiger Shrimp Addict!!!

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  1. Reduce feeding and the population of seed shrimp and detritus worms will lessen over time. For snails, you can drop in a piece of lettuce and give it a couple of hours, then pull it back out. Lather, rinse, repeat until the population is under control.
  2. When you want to strengthen traits that the parents share, that is when you breed back to the parents, or at least that is what I do.
  3. You're welcome! I don't have any more links, but I can say that if you don't have room for a lot more tanks then you can always start using HOB Breeder Boxes. Take the two shrimp you want to breed together and toss them in a box off of the main tank. Once the female is berried then move her back to the main tank. Take your babies, selectively move them to new tanks, and keep track of the generations that way. If you want to breed a particular shrimp back with it's parent's then you can easily do it that way.
  4. This is a good read for those interested in breeding out specific lines of shrimp. https://singaporeshrimps.wordpress.com/2019/12/23/all-about-breeding-tanks/?fbclid=IwAR04CFZFoHqKBOIkzRr5i9q_S-aO5FxzhqX11wXmA8l_zdmE27oPnUtpJm0
  5. Gotta do it! I typically reset my tanks every 1-2 years.
  6. Your pH isn't staying stable because you don't have enough kH to keep it stable (otherwise it would be right around 7) and you don't have active substrate. siphon 50-75% of your water into buckets remove all decorations and plants remove all shrimp scoop up substrate and drain the rest of the water add new substrate add old water add new water to level desired in tank add back decorations and plants drip shrimp back in to tank
  7. I'm looking more closely at your substrate in the pics, it doesn't look like it's an active substrate. The shrimp you're keeping need a lower pH environment. You will want to swap substrate to something like Landen or Brightwell to keep things stable.
  8. You're adding kH to a tank with Active Substrate, you shouldn't be doing that. You want kH for inert substrate and neutral to above neutral water, and Active Substrate for 0kH water to keep the pH buffered low. Your shrimp are stressed because of this. I recommend that you stop using the gH/kH+ and ensure your active substrate is still working. If it isn't, you need to replace the substrate and stick to just using the Bee Shrimp gH+.
  9. What are you feeding? You may need to move put a higher mineral content food into rotation, that can sometimes help with coloration like this.
  10. Crashes? Why would it crash? You need to keep feeding the tank (give it an ammonia source) once it's cycled. I like to put snails in my shrimp tanks to keep the bioload up, shrimp quite honestly have little to no bioload so having something in there with them helps to keep things stable.
  11. I've found that one of the best ways to create biofilm quickly is with a bacteria/enzyme bag while you're cycling the tank. Within a week you've got a healthy amount of biofilm in the tank, but this can't be done if there are inhabitants in the tank. (And if you're cycling, you shouldn't have any inhabitants in the tank anyway.) Aside from that, any bacterial supplement (Dead Shrimp Powder, Aqualex Enzyme, etc...) or powdered food will help to build biofilm. And finally, time... ...given time your tank will age and biofilm will naturally be created.
  12. It's a fine powder, but has some larger granules in it as well. I have their nutridust and utilize it weekly. IME worms and seed shrimp generally come from overfeeding or appear in a new tank as part of the natural cycle of things, they hang out for a while and then the population decreases. I've never had them stay or persist in a tank for very long.
  13. What are the good things in the bacter ae. - There are multiple Lactobacillus and other bacterial strains in Bacter AE, these help to contribute to biofilm growth in a tank. Bacillus Subtilis is the main culprit in the O2 scavenging. Lacto does the same to an extent, but not as much as Subtilis. The fact that it's a powder makes it available to the entire tank, this is a huge benefit IMHO and why I developed a "complete" powdered food to feed to my tanks. What other foods provide them? - Other Biofilm Building foods that are commercially available are Pure Nordic Nutridust, SL Aqua Magic Powder/Aqualex Enzyme, Dead Shrimp Powder (if you want this I can pass along Po's information), Lowkeys Double Speed and Bacteria Bacter. Most of these can be found via a quick google search. Do the other bacteria foods you mentioned lack O2 loving bacteria? - They do, which makes them safer overall. Do they have other bacteria, or no live bacteria? - Bacteria isn't really live, it's just inactive or in stasis. It becomes active under the right conditions and begins replicating. Most of these foods contain some sort of inactive bacteria or enzymes that promote biofilm growth in your tanks. Do they promote biofilm, or is that what the bacteria does? - Yes and Yes. Anything in powder form will be consumable by the bacteria in your tank, so it promotes biofilm in that way even if it doesn't contain bacteria. Is it necessary or do established tanks have enough biofilm anyway? - It's not necessary, but can certainly help if a tank has a large population of shrimp or your want to boost baby survival. Every tank is a separate ecosystem and will act differently, so one established tank may be completely different than the one next to it. What should I be looking for in other powdered foods? - I like to look at reviews and see what experienced breeders utilize. I did this a lot when I first started and even more so when I started making my own food. I wanted a "complete" food, so I have everything from Calcium sources, to betaglucans, enzymes, bacteria strains & yeast to animal and plant based proteins. It really depends on what you think you're lacking in a tank. If your shrimp are having trouble molting and your parameters are good, then you may want to consider something with lower protein (especially animal/insect) and higher concentrations of calcium. Do these replace the need for bio film enchancers? - It really depends. When I cycle a tank I use a Barley and Enzyme Bag that promotes a ton of biofilm growth. It ages a tank very quickly and negates need for tons of additional time and other enhancers. Again, none of this stuff is necessary... ...it just allows you to create a suitable environment more quickly. Which specifically are best, and where can I buy them? - See the list above. If you would like to try out anything I have, feel free to shoot me a message. If you are looking specifically for a bacterial supplement, Dead Shrimp Powder is one of the best I've used and is readily available. SL Aqua/Aqualex has been going through some radical changes and has been really hard to come by, while I really loved their products I'll no longer support their brand due to some of the business decisions they made.
  14. @T0adman - Elaborate how? BacterAE isn't worth the risk IMHO, it's too easy to overdose. Having a bacteria in the mix that loves to scavenge O2 isn't a great move IMHO, so I no longer use the stuff. As I mentioned above, it's full of all kinds of great stuff, but the good doesn't outweigh the bad for me. As for feeding powders, I feed powdered foods 2-3X per week and run HMF's. I have to pull the HMF's and squeeze them out every 3-6moz depending on the tank.
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