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aotf last won the day on October 23 2018

aotf had the most liked content!


About aotf

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    Advanced Member

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    Bay Area, CA
  • Inverts You Keep
    1 Gal: Blue/Red Rili Skittles
    3 Gal: Mixed cards (CBS/CRS/GBs)
    7 Gal: Blue Diamonds, TTs
    9 Gal: BB, Bloody Mary, TTs

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  1. Nothing of note, I've been snapping some pictures here and there but the (few) shrimplets that survived to this point look very much like their tangtai parents so they're not particularly interesting. The really cool looking ones seem to have died off. Not sure why, my water seems like it's within range. I wonder if the ones that look more tibee-like also inherited the blue-bolt sensitivity/hatred of my tank, while the TT-phenotyped shrimplets got more of the TT hardiness, explaining why those are the ones to survive. Either way, the parents are still breeding so I'm keeping my eye out for cool-looking babies. It's slow-going with the survival rate being so low in my tank
  2. Got it. What confused me (and still does) is why you assume that all of the 20% of heat waste generated by the LEDs get transferred to the water. As you say, it's an engineering problem and I won't pretend to be able to solve it, but I would imagine that the amount of heat transferred from the LEDs to a water column 4-12" below (depending on the setup) through convection is relatively low, not 100% of the heat generated on the light fixture (air is a bad conductor, there's a lot of air in the room, and hot air tends to rise anyway so the convective transfer seems limited). Not saying it's negligible, just that it would be a fraction of the 20% you use in the calculated rate of temp increase. Radiation, on the other hand, seems like it could account for a lot. Soils absorb roughly 80% of the light that hits them, so if you had an amazonia bottomed tank with no plants, you'd be looking at a decent amount of heat generated by the LEDs. (37.533(0.8*0.8))/(0.999*62.31*2.94)= 0.13 F/hr dT = 1.05 F in 8 hours. ...so not as much as the pump, but still something! One easy way to get around it is to lower the light output (dimmer), which would also decrease the waste heat/convective transfer or go with a higher albedo bottom in the tank. Fun stuff!
  3. I’m confused by your LED heat waste calculation. I’m probably misunderstanding but are you assuming that 20% of the LEDs power draw is converted to heat in the water? Why?
  4. Yup, that’s scutariella. They grab onto what they can, sometimes head, sometimes rostrum. Google images has examples of both. Luckily it’s an easy fix!
  5. Are you monitoring nitrates while doing this? It could be that the purigen is stripping the water of nitrates (which plants need to grow) and other nutrients. If you had other junk in the water as well (or nitrates >20-30ppm), that might have explained the baby shrimp deaths. Fertilizing with Purigen in the tank seems... wasteful? I'm guessing you'll burn through both Purigen and fertilizers. That said, maybe your nitrates were low the whole time and it was something else in the water that was killing off the shrimplets. Either the source is still there (different problem you have to solve), or the Purigen took it out (problem taken care of).
  6. Ah! That is indeed pretty low, could explain lack of breeding. The "adjustment" can only go so far so if they were raised in low card parameters (which is pretty hard on most neos) they might have a really hard time breeding in something as different as neo parameters. That said, I would just raise the temperature a couple degrees every week for a couple weeks and wait a month or two. If you're still not getting breeding, then you might have something else going on.
  7. Sounds like Scutariella, a pic wouldn't hurt. Shamelessly copy-pasting @wyzazz since I'm lazy and he typed this up like last week: " Be careful not to use table salt with Iodine! Dosage: 1 teaspoon to 1 cup of clean tank water (not tap water). Duration: 30sec to 1 minute. You might need to repeat this a couple of times until the parasite disappears, so keep the infected shrimp in a breeder or hospital tank (could be another cup of tank water). "
  8. I think there's actually something odd going on with your tank. Given the parameters you posted elsewhere, they should already be breeding. You don't need to bump the temp up to "trigger" anything. Do you know what parameters they came from? It could be that your parameters look good in isolation but are actually drastically different from what they were bred in.
  9. If you're into mosses, you could try out vesicularia ferriei (weeping moss). It's not horribly demanding with the caveat that it will grow differently under different conditions. It also won't fill your tank quite as much as java, which can get out of hand.
  10. Out of curiosity, why are you breeding/keeping them?
  11. It depends what you mean by "okay". There's a strong possibility you'll have a scud explosion in your shrimp tank. Some claim they attack and kill baby shrimp, others just find them unsightly. If you don't want them in that tank, kill each one you see as soon as you see it. Once you start to see several at a time, you've lost that battle and you'll have to resort to much more extreme measures to get them out of the tank (tear-down, seltzer water, etc...).
  12. I can’t open your video but based on the description, scutariella? Not too difficult to treat, mostly annoying. Try posting a picture instead. EDIT: I was able to see the video in a different browser (no-go in FireFox) and @wyzazz is correct, that is indeed scutariella. Follow his tips and your shrimp will be fine. Keep an eye out for them in the future, you may need to do secondary dips since it's easy to miss all of them the first time (happened to me).
  13. Got it, I saw the tiger in the picture and figured I'd ask.
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