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Mikolas

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  1. That's hilarious you mentioned that. I'm actually trying to get rid of her batch for the reasons you mentioned. I purchased my "blue dreams" a few months ago, with pretty bad cull rates, and finding out from some shrimpers that the culls suggest they are blue diamonds, so I was very disappointed in the stock and her knowledge regarding what she's even selling. The ones that are blue, look great, but it's maybe 50% or less that comes out that way. The others are brown/black/clear. Sadly, doesn't seem like they do, just checked their website. Thanks though.
  2. Hi, I am looking for deep blue diamonds with low culling rates and are consistent in color or Super Tigers that are used to 7.0 + ph / neo parameters. Please recommend any potential sellers if you know of any.
  3. It depends on the snail. "Pest" snails might outcompete as per the other poster, but they will also help ensure you don't have to clean-up your food since they will clear up whatever excess there is. Ornamental snails, some are great algae cleaners (nerite), some are great for getting rid of other snails (assassin), some do turn over the substrate (assassin and I think mystery/apple?) They all have their various cons as well, so it's hard to say. I find most snails to be pests as I don't find them attractive AND multiple too much, assassin snails are my favorite since their shell is nice and they get rid of the former, they breed slowly (their eggs take forever to hatch), turn over the substrate, and eat excess foods. There are some reported cases of them occasionally eating shrimp though, I have not seen this. Nerites clear algae insanely effectively, but they keep crawling out of my tanks (no covers) and had a few deaths as a result of not seeing them on the floor somewhere, and they poop like crazy (don't get these if you have white sand) -_-.
  4. Hey all, I purchased a batch of cherries about 2 months ago for my 40 gallon and I quickly got bored of them. I'm looking to sell off my colony to make room for a more exotic neo and thus can't keep them around. These shrimp range from a minority being Sakura grade/High Grade Fire Reds, with majority being considered Mid Grade Fire Reds. The Sakura's are usually/only males. I'm not too familiar with selling cherries but googling seems to sell these for around $3.50 to $5.00 per but I will sell for less. Information and pictures below. Mid Grade Cherries (mostly) Age: Juveniles Price: $2.50 to $2.00 depending on how many you buy. Shipping Location: U.S. Only Shipping Price: $10 to $15 depending on small/medium priority box. (Heat pack included) Payment Method: Paypal / Facebook Pay / If Local you can pick up with cash on hand (NYC) History: Purchased from another U.S. breeder 2 months ago Water Parameters: 7.4 pH, 7 gH, 3 kH Subwassertang Moss Description: Possibly the most voluminous of mosses, creates a hedge/bush if tied, excellent hiding spaces for fry/shrimplets. I have a bucket worth from old tanks that I want to clear out. Googling for this seems to sell for $5 to $15 for a golfball portion, which is less than a third of my portion size. Does not require CO2. Size: Refer to picture of my hand, portion is sold in fist/tennis ball size. Price: $12 Shipping Location: U.S. Only Shipping: $8 to $15 depending on amount/if combined with other items Warning: Small chance of pond snails, small chance of random strands of java/christmas moss, very small chance of algae. I will be doing what I can to remove this before shipping. Frogbit Description: Among easiest floaters to keep. Excellent for sucking up Nitrates. Very easy to grow so will be giving out a lot for this. Does not require CO2. Size: Half of standard ziplock bag stuffed Price: $5 Shipping Location: U.S. Only Shipping: $8 to $15 depending on amount/if combined with other items Thanks! If post is un-updated, there is still stuff available!
  5. Hydra - That sounds right. Planaria - Has a triangular/arrow shaped/phallic shaped head. Buy Fenbendazole today, found in walmart, local pet stores. It's a dog dewormer so will be best to go to a dog pet store if you can't find it elsewhere. Refer to the link below for the instructions and a picture of the brand/box. I got the exact same one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBVyuNseT90 For hydra, I did .1 (note the decimal in case it's too tiny to see) grams for my 20 gallon. The instructions say to do .1 per 10 gallon, but it wasn't necessary (followed this from another shrimp keeper), and I'd rather underdose than over. It comes with 3 packets, take one (it's 1 gram), and like a drug addict (you'll see what I mean), split them out into roughly 10 equal parts to get your .1 gram. You don't need to OCD and try to be exact, remember you're already underdosing. For your 30 gallon, I guess going .15 to .2 will be sufficient. If you've any snails, remove them from the tank or they will die. You'll see the hydra lose it's appendages within hours (I stared at them with glee), and just finishing up my water change today (dosed it last friday) to remove the chemical. The planaria did not seem affected with my dosage, so you may have to do the .1 per 10 gallon to see it's effects, but I've also read some situations that fenbendazole didn't work at all. They aren't as immediately dangerous as the others, so I'm purchasing either "No Planaria", or SL-Aqua Z1 Bio Protector, which are both apparently natural products to get rid of these guys. As per the advice I was given, get the Fenbendazole asap for immediate treatment, and consider one of those two (I did a poll on facebook shrimp group and those two are coming out as most popular) for future prevention. Fish tanks deal with issues like fin rot, ick, so on, shrimp tanks deal with hydra/planaria. Fish will usually eat these guys so that's why you don't see them in fish tanks, but I can't say all fish will eat them so it's hard to say whether pygmy cories will. But you should expect to lose some shrimplets to any carnivorous fish, though with enough plants/mosses, losses will be minimal. If you want to try subwassertang for cover, I have some for cheap to clear up aquascaping my tanks. Good luck.
  6. 1. Tap or RO? Perhaps your tap water contains toxic (for shrimp) substances (i.e. copper). You will need to consider RO if that's the case. 2. My biggest suspicion is the following: You're mentioning a lot of microorganisms, a 29 gallon tank is a lot of room for all kinds especially if it's been well fed and you only have otocinclus (non-carnivorous meaning all the organisms stay alive and reproduce). You should check to see if you have planaria/hydra or other parasites. You can youtube/google those keywords and check your tank thoroughly to ensure they aren't there (it's a big tank though and they can be pretty small). They can kill your shrimp (explaining random separate deaths if one of them gets unlucky). 3. With the amount of shrimp you have, and the size of the tank, you probably don't even need to be feeding them that often, so it'll likely just end up as waste in your tank. \ 4. They are imports and super weak. 5. The picture of the shrimp you have looks like it's split in the middle, did it look like this while it was alive like it had a white band/severed look around the midsection? It's called the white band of death or some other similar terms, it's an indication of molting issues and usually results in death. Anyway that's all I can think of.
  7. How do you guys make your own food? Leaves...? You guys just go around picking up leaves and that works?
  8. ph/gh/kh on your bloody mary and dream blues?
  9. Hey all, Looking to start a caridina tank and would optimally breed/sell them to offset the initial/reoccurring costs of fish keeping. What would you say is the most popular that would always be in demand between ~7-20 or best bang for buck if you will? I quit for several years and OEBTs were popular then, it doesn't seem to be the case now compared to royal blues/etc for instance. Thanks!
  10. Thanks, I'll unfortunately have to hold off on the R/O for now, I have one back in storage (5 hour drive away) that I've never used before I quit the hobby. It be too wasteful for me to buy a new one so I will try to get that within 1-2 months. Hopefully it won't present too much of an issue, I noticed most of the shrimp breeders I've encountered in NYC who were successful did not use R/O, including a person breeding the rarer and expensive caridinas (king kong/blue bolt/pinto/red wine/etc). So hopefully this is a sign that the R/O won't be an immediate need. I didn't quite understand your instructions. You're saying that the default scoop will add 160 TDS per gallon. So my 5 gallon bucket will add 800 TDS into the tank? I suppose for the first time, I would need to do that given that I have virtually no TDS, but in the future it just seems like 1-2 scoops per water change is sufficient? I guess I will not be touching caridinas for the time being. Or i'll allocate a separate tank entirely with caridinas later on. Can anybody explain the relationship of gh, kh, tds? So GH is associated with calcium levels as per your statement, which naturally makes sense in needing to molt. I'm not really sure what/why TDS/KH does/is needed. Also, regarding the gh/kh supplement, won't I have potentially too high of one but need to put more to meet a minimum for another? i.e. my kh is too high with the amount I've put in, but still only have ex. 100 TDS? How would I be able to balance the salty shrimp supplement out? Also, recommended TDS meter/type? Thanks for the assists!
  11. To clarify, given the water parameters of NYC on how low it is on everything, isn't the tap water already accomplishing what the R/O unit was for? I have purchased the Salty Shrimp GH/KH, it will arrive in 4 days... Hopefully it won't be too long for the shrimp I already have. I heard the KH will increase the pH of the tank significantly, isn't this fixing one issue but creating another? How do you recommend I mineralize the water with this product? Assuming that it's 40 TDS, how much will I need to put in to reach the 200? I don't yet have a gh/kh tester and will not have it for at least 1-2 weeks, hence why I'll eyeball it based on the advice here. I'm experiencing the sulfur bubbles and it throwing up soil across my sand (really ruins my white sand tanks).
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