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AquaticShrimpNoob last won the day on March 9

AquaticShrimpNoob had the most liked content!

About AquaticShrimpNoob

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Interests
    Any rare shrimps
  • Inverts You Keep
    OE Royal Blue Tiger Shrimp,
    Caridina Rubropunctata,
    Caridina Babaulti sp. Zebra Stripped,
    Chocolate Rabbit Snail,
    Nerite Snail,
    Dwarf Crayfish

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  1. Hi Everyone, I would like to give an update about my Caridina Rubropunctata that were acclimated in high pH. After my last update, most of the females became berried. This indication is a proof of the possibility for them to thrive in hard water. Reminder that I started working with them as juveniles. They grew and acclimated well as adults. Today, I saw this sub-juvenile, which indicates that the acclimation experiment is successful. We can conclude that Caridina Rubropunctata can thrive in hard water. Again, this might be the first case, at least, to be recorded. For my next experiment, I would like to try to work on zero-generation wild-type shrimp. This means wild-caught version of a shrimp type that is available already in the market. I will give an update on this. As usual, if you have any question, please let me know. Thanks, AquaticShrimpNoob
  2. Hi Everyone, It seems like I will be able to sell homebred Caridina Babaulti Stripped/Zebra in few months (don't know exactly, but definitely before near the end of this year). Anyways, I just want to know some rule of thumb you have or advice when you sell your shrimps. This is a general and a broad question. I want to be prepared when the time comes. Any input is very appreciated. Here are some sample topics that I can think of: packaging (ways to properly pack shrimps, materials to purchase), shipping (options and cost), shrimp price (market vs. personal evaluation), number of shrimp per order, DOA policy, etc.
  3. Hi @Riaan S, I like to share my experience with Bacter AE. I have Babaulti sp. Zebra shrimps in my tank, which is 20 gallon. The shrimplets have very slow growth compare to regular dwarf shrimps. I remembered that I used to feed lots (e.g. half scoop) of Bacter AE as well. Survival rate increased but I noticed hydras. Good news that the hydras were not all over my tank. They were growing on a specific area in my tank, which is weird in my opinion. Anyways, after eliminating the hydras, I constructed a feeding schedule. I feed my shrimps once a day, five to six times a week. Of course, I vary the food type for nutritional purposes and to complement my rabbit snails as well. The hydras never came back and shrimplets survival rate is higher than before. There are combination of two keys to these great results: Despite supplementing food, I make sure that the food that I give is enough to be eaten in at most 1 hour. Some people would say that you don't need food supplementation if you have good biofilm in your tank. I do agree to this to some extent. In my case, I supplement food in my tank to prevent the adults from competing with the shrimplets in biofilm. So far, this has been a success for me. Shrimplets are everywhere. There are so much (a bit exaggeration) that they are visible, which was something that I have not observed in the past. I use feeding dish to control food. Most people believe that feeding dish is garbage (i.e. waste of money, scam, etc.) because food never stay in the dish anyways. Well, this is not true for all food types. I have powders and crumbling pellets. So, the shrimps are sharing equally with the food (e.g. a pellet being stolen away). In addition, food don't just disintegrate and fall in every nook and cranny of the substrate or fall in the very bottom of the substrate to become food for the bacteria. This is especially true for substrates that are granular such as gravels or marvel chips. In fact, food still diffuse through sand. The food that decompose in the substrate turns back in water and become nutrients for hydras for example. Adult shrimps and even shrimplets don't even have a chance to eat the food. Such a waste. I thought some of these reasons are common sense. I would not do something if there are no logical and/or technical incentive(s). Anyways, this is just my personal experience. I am fully aware that these may not work for you. We have different type of shrimps, take environment, water parameters, etc. Your call. But I do hope that this response give you some idea(s) at least. Sincerely, AquaticShrimpNoob
  4. Thank you for pointing that out. Here is a more comprehensive step-by-step calculations.
  5. Hi Everyone, I believe that I have to do some updates. Bad news first. I still could not get my OERBT to breed. I do not know how many I still have left, but I won't be adding any more. I have raised my white flag on them long time ago. But I will still be mindful of them. Now for some good news. My Caridina Babaulti sp. Zebra Stripped colony is growing very strong. Babies from different sizes and multiple berried females are everywhere. I am very happy and proud of them. That said, I won't be selling until I met my ultimate goal. I am happy to share my experience to anyone who wants to try them. PM me please. Another good news. My first batch of Caridina Rubropunctata are all fully grown now. All of them seemed to survive in higher pH. They are all healthy (molting fine and no physical deformation or abnormal) and all have saddles. Unfortunately (could be fortunate), my first batch turned out to be all female. Therefore, I had to request for another batch that is all male. Fast forward, now one of the female is berried. I think that this is a good indication that they could definitely survive at high pH. For the record, this would be first. As I have mentioned, I have not found a single record online that indicated that someone has done it. I could be wrong on this claim. Anyways, I will be happy to help someone who wants to go through this (e.g. pH change or try Caridina Rubropunctata). Thanks
  6. @nicpapa This is indeed very interesting topic. I have seen many people talk about slow breeding or no breeding in winter or cold season. Most people hypothesized that this is caused by atmospheric pressure change in cold season. I do read publish papers too (high five!!). In fact, most of my info about shrimps are from these. I stopped inquiring from other shrimpers due to inconsistency and lack of fundamentals. Most of the things that catch my attention, I do take with a grain of salt and then inquire principles and understanding first before I take them seriously. My advice, however, is be careful on interpreting publish papers. As you have mentioned, you got these information from se shrimps and culture in ponds. See here that volume and depth are not identical to regular aquariums. But I am aware that these small change in atmospheric pressure can affect dwarf shrimps due to their biology and size. To be fair, I only have one shrimp tank besides my other freshwater aquarium (for now, I really want to focus on just one shrimp tank). I don't have much observations as most of you with multiple tanks do so I can't speculate more than this. However, I am very thankful for these observations because I can use them on my own personal shrimp care. I am also happy @nicpapa and @Shrimp Life for producing such speculations using combinations of observations and principles/fundamentals.
  7. @aotf Sorry for late response. Yes, the assumption is that the LED light is only 80% efficient, which means that 20% of the energy (i.e. electricity) is being converted to heat. I am not really sure if this is true for my LED. Keep in mind that not all LED light have the same quality. And not all companies provide some information about efficiency of their product. I kind of see where the confusion is coming from. If you have an LED light, you have probably felt the backside to be a bit warm because of the heatsink. We are dealing with three different type of heat transfer: convection, conduction, and radiation. Indirectly: LED light release heat through their heatsink (i.e. conduction) and transfer to the air (i.e. convection). Ideally, you want this heat to dissipate through the air. But life is not that simple. If you don't have good air flow in that room or if your LED is inside a canopy, you can imagine that the energy from the stagnant air will transfer to the water (BTW, water has high heat capacity). This is an engineering problem that you can solve and optimize. Directly: light energy transforms to heat energy (i.e. radiation) as light wave excites matter, which is pretty much everything under the light source. I won't explain the science behind this here. You can look this up. You can't really do anything about this. I hope that helps.
  8. It seems like I was able to remove my water pump as possible source of heat waste. I just submerge the pump in a container with water and my aquarium water barely change temperature through the course of the day. We will see how effective this is in the summer. For now, I think my biggest challenge is my freaking LED light. I need to engineer it to enhance heat transfer. BTW, yes, I was able to observe the LED light effect on my aquarium temperature.
  9. @nicpapa Interesting observation. However, to state something like this, there has to be some connection/speculation (e.g. why does barometric pressure affect shrimp breeding?). But an observation is an observation. You are not making up something. So this might be something indeed. Theoretically speaking, oxygen solubility is better in cold water compare to warm water. However, shrimps activity are lower in cold water than warm water. Taking temperature out of the screen (assuming that temperature is indeed CONSTANT = does not change EVER), there might be some outside factor that affects shrimps' breeding in winter. That factor, I do not know. However, I have not seen any papers that explains this phenomena. @TheGlassBox I have seen papers that supports the effect of photoperiod. I would be very interested in learning form the results of your experiment. BTW, please perform a control sample so that you can compare your results. There are other parameters that affects shrimp breeding. And I believe that everyone is doing what they can to achieve optimum breeding. Constant temperature is difficult to achieve but not complicated. If you have a temperature controlled room, this is very easy (e.g. basement, etc). But for most of us, air conditioning is the closest thing that we got. But year around, house temperature varies depending on the temperature outside. One can get a chiller, but this does not mean that your temperature will be constant due to temperature fluctuations. However, you can minimize the fluctuation by insulation. That said, there will be less temperature fluctuation in winter compare to summer. There are other factors that also affects temperature such as lighting and filtration.
  10. Hi @nicpapa That humidity is indeed high. I do think that moisture-absorber will not help much in this case. Heating the salts is the only way to remove the water in this case. BTW, there are other ways to remove the water, but they are beyond our capability and beyond accessible (e.g. industrial processes). By heating up the salts, you will evaporate out the water molecules bonded with the salts. If you heat up the salts >100 Celsius, you should be able to evaporate the water (water's boiling point is 100 Celsius). However, remember that Salty Bee is a mixture of different salts. Some of these salts may have melting point below 100 Celsius. If that is the case, you will form big chucks of salts that maybe problematic and you would have to crush them. That would be inconvenient. You can continue what you have been doing if that works really well. I do, however, can offer you something if you want. You can do an experiment. Here is the process: 1.) Get a sample of your Salty Bee GH+ with known mass (e.g. 100 g) 2.) Heat that sample. 3.) Measure the mass difference (e.g. 10 g) 4.) Get the ratio of final mass to initial mass (e.g. 90/100 = 0.90) 5.) Follow the calculation below: I suggest to do this experiment multiple times at different days to see if there is a big difference. You don't have to account the moisture in your salt in the calculation above because the water amount in the salt is negligible compare to 5 gallon water. Once you know the amount of scoop you need per RO water, you will not have to spend so much time guessing until you get your desired gH. This will save your time. Let me know if it works.
  11. @Revaria I did not use any balance in this calculations. The weight of the sodium bicarbonate was based on few calculations (e.g. density of dry sodium bicarbonate, etc). You can use this reference for convenience if you want: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3770998/ The Salty Bee GH+ weight is based on the given weight on their website: http://www.saltyshrimp.de/english/beesalt_bee_shrimp_mineral_gh_plus.html @nicpapa Good point! These calculations are based on dry content basis. Oh, that's easy problem to fix. You can place moisture-absorber pack inside your container. This should solve that issue. Honestly, I do not think that you will need this unless you are exposing your salts in a humid environment. Another way to fix your salt's mass balance is to heat up your salt. Honestly, this is just salt (BTW, I am not talking about table salt. I am using science definition of salt). Heat it up, place it in a clean dry container, and put a desiccant or silica moisture-absorber. You just fix the problem.
  12. Hi Everyone, I have some calculations to get proper water chemistry in my remineralized RO water for water change. I decided to share this after finding this in my file while cleaning. Hopefully, this will be useful to someone. The kH calculation might be a bit weird. I make kH solution using a 20 fl oz soda bottle then add that to my 5 gallon RO water. Let me know if you have any questions.
  13. Hi Everyone, I recently did some calculations on heat waste produce by my light and water pump and I am not impressed. See the calculations below: I did lots of assumption here. I also don't take the possibility that I have made some mistakes. But I think this is sufficient enough to convince me to do some modification. Clearly, my LED light and water pump add heat to the water, which increases my water temperature. In addition, there is no such thing as perfect insulator. That said, there is still heat transfer from surrounding to my tank. I am thinking of adding a small fan to my water pump or submerge the pump under water and let evaporative cooling cool the pump. I am also thinking of modifying my canopy so that the back surface of my LED light is exposed to the outside for convection. I may add some sort of metal plate or heat sink just to enhance the heat transfer. Anyways, I just want to report this just in case some one might ask. Sincerely, AquaticShrimpNoob
  14. Hi there, My apologies for late response. Unfortunately, someone throw away my solution sometime that week. I had to start all over again. This time, however, I did not use aquarium water. I instead used remineralized RO water. The water parameters is identical to my aquarium water. Here is my recipe: 1.) Half scoop of Bacter AE. 2.) 1/4 cup of white sugar. 3.) 2 liters of remineralized RO water (7.4 pH, 3 kH and 9 gH). 4.) 1 mL of Sachem Flourish. I made two solutions. Now, they are pressurized like soda. I need to depressurized them once in a while. I believe that this is a must because the gases are forming inside the bottles. I have not tried feeding this to my shrimp yet. I believe that this set-up is pretty successful. Biofilm are forming on the surface of the bio-bale, which is amazing. In this regard, I actually did something crazy. I made another bottle of this solution. I throw out 2 cups of solution and replace it with 2% fat milk. YES, milk. After couple of days, I created fermented solution. I have fed milk curds to my shrimps at least twice now with great feedback. Of course, I washed the curd twice with RO water. So, unknown junks soluble to water are gone. I have never seen dead shrimp. It also does not foul my water because the curds chunks were washed and sunk in the bottom of my tank (e.g. do not float around).
  15. Good news. After just three days, all the bottles were already pressurized. My house is sitting around 72F, which is fairly cold. Anyways, I had a douche move. I decided to replace half of the solution from each bottle. I changed my aquarium water. That said, I have a new broth for the solution. I did made new solution using the following: 1.) Half liter of my aquarium water a.) my water contains right/recommended dosage of Seachem Flourish for plant fertilizer. b.) at this point, the concentration in water will not be exact since the plants may have already used some of them. c.) we can speculate that the water has some reasonable trace amount of nitrate in it (my test says zero otherwise). d.) we can speculate that the water has some significant concentration of organic junk for carbon and nitrogen sources from decomposed food and organic matter. 2.) 1 tsp of table sugar I mixed the solution. This time, I added one scoop of Bacter AE to each bottle. This is not really necessary. But to increase the growth rate, I decided to add more bacteria and food in the solution. I combined this solution to my old solution. After five days, the bottles are already pressurized. You can see the solution a bit yellowish/orange color compare to the second picture above. Also, you see in the attachment how much biofilm is in the solution, which is pretty impressive. In addition, you can see that the solution is alive - meaning that there are bacteria inside creating gas(ses). My hypothesis is that this is mixture of carbon dioxide and nitrogen gas. Carbon dioxide were produce when the environment was still closed to aerobe. Nitrogen gas starts to form when the environment depleted of oxygen and the environment gets closed to anaerobe. The video does not show, but the bubbles are forming on the bio bale. I have not observe this much bubbles before. That said, I can conclude that bio bale helps biofilm production. I also changed my feeding process. After reading more papers, I realized that this solution would have lots of by-products that I definitely don't want in my tank like acetate and 2,3-butanediol. These will not decomposed unless a different type/strain of bacteria use them. I did an experiment using my old solution. I took the biofilms under the bottom of the container and transfer it to a different container (cleaned small coke bottle). After the biofilms settled down on the bottom of the container, I carefully removed the solution. I washed out the biofilms using RO water. This took time because the biofilms suspend on the water and need to settle down on the bottom. I removed the solution out. I did this again. After that, the solution must have been either free of these unwanted chemicals or at least diluted them. I fed them to my shrimps. Even with these positive results, I don't believe that I have achieve my goal. I am a bit greedy indeed. I will wait for couple of weeks and see improvement. IMG_2517.mov
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