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AquaticShrimpNoob

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AquaticShrimpNoob last won the day on March 9

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About AquaticShrimpNoob

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  • Interests
    Any rare shrimps and snails
  • Inverts You Keep
    Caridina Rubropunctata
    Caridina Babaulti sp. Zebra Stripped
    Tylomelania Perfecta
    Tylomelania Zemis
    Tylomelania Sinabartfeldi
    Nerite Snail
    Dwarf Crayfish

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  1. Hi @briscoe, I do not believe that there is such a thing - a scented product shrimp safe. Scented products usually contain volatile chemicals. Worse is scented product using diffuser. The diffuser diffuses not just the scented chemicals but also stabilizers to maintain and stabilize chemicals. Some of them have pretty good solubility in water - you can look them up. If you have aquarium open-top, that is just asking for problems. If you insist on having one, my recommendation would be the following: 1.) Have aquarium cover. This will not make your tank chemical proof. But your tank is at least chemical resistant. 2.) Place scented product near the door. This is a problem if you have your tank oriented against the door. As air flows though the door, the air flows toward your tank. 3.) Replace diffuser with scented candles. 4.) Decrease the number of scented products. 5.) Place your tank in an isolated room away from the scented products. I do not know why you want to use scented products. I am not particularly fan of them. I used to be way back in college since I had uncivilized roommates. The key in removing odor is proper house cleaning and proper air ventilation. FYI, we also have dogs - lots of dogs.
  2. Hi @HumanArtRebel1020 You can integrate sponge filter with your canister. This is what I have in my setup. Depending on the inlet/outlet size of your canister, buy appropriate flexible tubing and sponge filter. I believe that the hard tubing on the sponge filter will go into a 1/2" I.D. flexible tubing. I hope that this will help.
  3. Hi Everyone, It's been at most 2 months now since I gave an update. There were few changes in the shrimp tank and few addition. One major change was that I upgraded my filtration system. I have been having problems with my filtration system before. I have to engineer my filtration system this time to run my pump and chiller efficiently and get sufficient filtration and flow in my tank. It was a success. At the same time, I was able to make it so that I save so much space. I removed my Riccia Fluitans. To be honest, my shrimps like this plant. But I had to remove it. It is a fast growing plant. You have to trim it every month at most. It is a messy process. It is a good plant. I just want to decrease my time cleaning my tank during maintenance. I removed my large cholla wood with monte carlo growing on it. It has been great. But the cholla wood is visibly thinning out. It is obviously deteriorating. I replaced it with driftwood instead. I got lucky that I found porous driftwood at one of my LFS. It looks like it used to be home for termites. I placed some of my Anubias Nana and my Anubias Coffeefolia. I hope that they start to attach to the wood by the end of the month. I rearranged my hanging plants so that front half of my tank is visible to me and the back half looks perfect space for baby to adult shrimps and snails. The front part has growing Monte Carlo and Marsilea Crenata. It's not good looking yet but I know it will be soon. I may have to sell some portions of Distichphyllum Maibarae. I have two sets that are growing pretty well. At first, I thought that they will grow slow like Hookeriaceae Moss. Well, they are not fast growing like Riccia Fluitans. But they are definitely faster than Hookeriaceae Moss. I will also be getting Pagoda snails this week. Since I have sufficient water flow and oxygen/air injection, I think that they will thrive in my tank. I will give an update in the next month or so. Good News!!! It seems like I have enough Caridina Rubropunctata and Caridina Babaulti sp. Zebra Stripped to sell. But I will hold on this since we are in summer peak. I will sell some starting the beginning of fall season. Thanks, AquaticShrimpNoob
  4. For reference, here is the list of plants that are thriving in my shrimp tank: Fissidens Splachnobryoides Cameroon Moss Hookeriaceae Moss Distichphyllum Maibarae Riccia Fluitans Mini Bucephalandra (unknown sp.) Monte Carlo Hydrocotyle Tripartita Marsilea Crenate Anubias Nana Petite Anubias Nana Anubias Coffeefolia Anubias Nana Pinto Java Fern None of these has been targeted by my Sulawesi snails.
  5. I forgot to mentioned on my previews updates that I did have new addition to my tank. I bought two types of Sulawesi shrimps: TYLOMELANIA SINABARTFELDI and TYLOMELANIA ZEMIS. Both are known to be two of the smallest types of Sulawesi snails available in the market. So far, I have not observed breeding yet. I do want to report that I am keeping them to temperature as low as 69F. No death. I have been keeping my chocolate rabbit snails in this tank and they have spawned few snails. They can thrive in this temperature. Good news to people who want to keep rabbit snails in temperatures lower than 80F. However, I do not recommend to go lower than 69F. I did my research on these snails before trying this. Do your homework and not take any risk. I have been observing that TYLOMELANIA SINABARTFELDI likes to stay near water flow. I am not surprise since they are originally from Larona River. This might be the reason why they can tolerate low temperature. Sometimes I see at least one of them partially immersed on the water (just part of its shell that is off the water). They love the algae and biofilm that are growing on the sides of my tank. They don't eat any plants in my tank. They do don't compete with shrimps when it comes to feeding. When they get bored, they go down to the substrate and browse around. Sometimes they burrow themselves. These snails are very cool and very unique. I hope that they thrive so I can share them to you.
  6. Hi Everyone, One month has almost passed since my last post. I'd like to give few updates to my shrimp tank. Babaulti Zebras: They are breeding all right. Their breeding has slowed down but did not stop. I think that I have enough shrimps to sell (at most 2 packs of 10 each). But I would like to wait for few months. I may have 3 packs by then. We will see. Leopard Tigers: It has been almost a month since I observed few baby leopard tiger shrimps in my tank. Now, these guys are everywhere (population explosion). I might be selling leopard tiger shrimps before the end of this year. Stay tune. Few bad news. I tried to buy new types of shrimp to work with. Unfortunately, I encountered bad luck consecutively. For confidentiality, I will not revel the types of shrimps and tell the stories. So lets call them shrimp A and shrimp B. These shrimps came from different sellers. They both came with water with crazy high nitrate concentration. We are talking about >80 ppm. The color of each water was so dark red that I could not believed what I was seeing. Of course, I did a control for sanity check. For prospective buyers, here's a word of caution. PLEASE CHECK THE WATER PARAMETERS OF THE WATER THAT THE SHRIMPS COME IN. This might be one of the reasons why people observe shrimp death after introduction to their tank. It is not that their tank has the problem. It's just that the shrimps transit in such a messed up environment that the effects are irreversible and recoverable. Thanks, AquaticShrimpNoob
  7. Hi Everyone, I would like to give an update about my Caridina Rubropunctata that were acclimated in high pH. After my last update, most of the females became berried. This indication is a proof of the possibility for them to thrive in hard water. Reminder that I started working with them as juveniles. They grew and acclimated well as adults. Today, I saw this sub-juvenile, which indicates that the acclimation experiment is successful. We can conclude that Caridina Rubropunctata can thrive in hard water. Again, this might be the first case, at least, to be recorded. For my next experiment, I would like to try to work on zero-generation wild-type shrimp. This means wild-caught version of a shrimp type that is available already in the market. I will give an update on this. As usual, if you have any question, please let me know. Thanks, AquaticShrimpNoob
  8. Hi Everyone, It seems like I will be able to sell homebred Caridina Babaulti Stripped/Zebra in few months (don't know exactly, but definitely before near the end of this year). Anyways, I just want to know some rule of thumb you have or advice when you sell your shrimps. This is a general and a broad question. I want to be prepared when the time comes. Any input is very appreciated. Here are some sample topics that I can think of: packaging (ways to properly pack shrimps, materials to purchase), shipping (options and cost), shrimp price (market vs. personal evaluation), number of shrimp per order, DOA policy, etc.
  9. Hi @Riaan S, I like to share my experience with Bacter AE. I have Babaulti sp. Zebra shrimps in my tank, which is 20 gallon. The shrimplets have very slow growth compare to regular dwarf shrimps. I remembered that I used to feed lots (e.g. half scoop) of Bacter AE as well. Survival rate increased but I noticed hydras. Good news that the hydras were not all over my tank. They were growing on a specific area in my tank, which is weird in my opinion. Anyways, after eliminating the hydras, I constructed a feeding schedule. I feed my shrimps once a day, five to six times a week. Of course, I vary the food type for nutritional purposes and to complement my rabbit snails as well. The hydras never came back and shrimplets survival rate is higher than before. There are combination of two keys to these great results: Despite supplementing food, I make sure that the food that I give is enough to be eaten in at most 1 hour. Some people would say that you don't need food supplementation if you have good biofilm in your tank. I do agree to this to some extent. In my case, I supplement food in my tank to prevent the adults from competing with the shrimplets in biofilm. So far, this has been a success for me. Shrimplets are everywhere. There are so much (a bit exaggeration) that they are visible, which was something that I have not observed in the past. I use feeding dish to control food. Most people believe that feeding dish is garbage (i.e. waste of money, scam, etc.) because food never stay in the dish anyways. Well, this is not true for all food types. I have powders and crumbling pellets. So, the shrimps are sharing equally with the food (e.g. a pellet being stolen away). In addition, food don't just disintegrate and fall in every nook and cranny of the substrate or fall in the very bottom of the substrate to become food for the bacteria. This is especially true for substrates that are granular such as gravels or marvel chips. In fact, food still diffuse through sand. The food that decompose in the substrate turns back in water and become nutrients for hydras for example. Adult shrimps and even shrimplets don't even have a chance to eat the food. Such a waste. I thought some of these reasons are common sense. I would not do something if there are no logical and/or technical incentive(s). Anyways, this is just my personal experience. I am fully aware that these may not work for you. We have different type of shrimps, take environment, water parameters, etc. Your call. But I do hope that this response give you some idea(s) at least. Sincerely, AquaticShrimpNoob
  10. Thank you for pointing that out. Here is a more comprehensive step-by-step calculations.
  11. Hi Everyone, I believe that I have to do some updates. Bad news first. I still could not get my OERBT to breed. I do not know how many I still have left, but I won't be adding any more. I have raised my white flag on them long time ago. But I will still be mindful of them. Now for some good news. My Caridina Babaulti sp. Zebra Stripped colony is growing very strong. Babies from different sizes and multiple berried females are everywhere. I am very happy and proud of them. That said, I won't be selling until I met my ultimate goal. I am happy to share my experience to anyone who wants to try them. PM me please. Another good news. My first batch of Caridina Rubropunctata are all fully grown now. All of them seemed to survive in higher pH. They are all healthy (molting fine and no physical deformation or abnormal) and all have saddles. Unfortunately (could be fortunate), my first batch turned out to be all female. Therefore, I had to request for another batch that is all male. Fast forward, now one of the female is berried. I think that this is a good indication that they could definitely survive at high pH. For the record, this would be first. As I have mentioned, I have not found a single record online that indicated that someone has done it. I could be wrong on this claim. Anyways, I will be happy to help someone who wants to go through this (e.g. pH change or try Caridina Rubropunctata). Thanks
  12. @nicpapa This is indeed very interesting topic. I have seen many people talk about slow breeding or no breeding in winter or cold season. Most people hypothesized that this is caused by atmospheric pressure change in cold season. I do read publish papers too (high five!!). In fact, most of my info about shrimps are from these. I stopped inquiring from other shrimpers due to inconsistency and lack of fundamentals. Most of the things that catch my attention, I do take with a grain of salt and then inquire principles and understanding first before I take them seriously. My advice, however, is be careful on interpreting publish papers. As you have mentioned, you got these information from se shrimps and culture in ponds. See here that volume and depth are not identical to regular aquariums. But I am aware that these small change in atmospheric pressure can affect dwarf shrimps due to their biology and size. To be fair, I only have one shrimp tank besides my other freshwater aquarium (for now, I really want to focus on just one shrimp tank). I don't have much observations as most of you with multiple tanks do so I can't speculate more than this. However, I am very thankful for these observations because I can use them on my own personal shrimp care. I am also happy @nicpapa and @Shrimp Life for producing such speculations using combinations of observations and principles/fundamentals.
  13. @aotf Sorry for late response. Yes, the assumption is that the LED light is only 80% efficient, which means that 20% of the energy (i.e. electricity) is being converted to heat. I am not really sure if this is true for my LED. Keep in mind that not all LED light have the same quality. And not all companies provide some information about efficiency of their product. I kind of see where the confusion is coming from. If you have an LED light, you have probably felt the backside to be a bit warm because of the heatsink. We are dealing with three different type of heat transfer: convection, conduction, and radiation. Indirectly: LED light release heat through their heatsink (i.e. conduction) and transfer to the air (i.e. convection). Ideally, you want this heat to dissipate through the air. But life is not that simple. If you don't have good air flow in that room or if your LED is inside a canopy, you can imagine that the energy from the stagnant air will transfer to the water (BTW, water has high heat capacity). This is an engineering problem that you can solve and optimize. Directly: light energy transforms to heat energy (i.e. radiation) as light wave excites matter, which is pretty much everything under the light source. I won't explain the science behind this here. You can look this up. You can't really do anything about this. I hope that helps.
  14. It seems like I was able to remove my water pump as possible source of heat waste. I just submerge the pump in a container with water and my aquarium water barely change temperature through the course of the day. We will see how effective this is in the summer. For now, I think my biggest challenge is my freaking LED light. I need to engineer it to enhance heat transfer. BTW, yes, I was able to observe the LED light effect on my aquarium temperature.
  15. @nicpapa Interesting observation. However, to state something like this, there has to be some connection/speculation (e.g. why does barometric pressure affect shrimp breeding?). But an observation is an observation. You are not making up something. So this might be something indeed. Theoretically speaking, oxygen solubility is better in cold water compare to warm water. However, shrimps activity are lower in cold water than warm water. Taking temperature out of the screen (assuming that temperature is indeed CONSTANT = does not change EVER), there might be some outside factor that affects shrimps' breeding in winter. That factor, I do not know. However, I have not seen any papers that explains this phenomena. @TheGlassBox I have seen papers that supports the effect of photoperiod. I would be very interested in learning form the results of your experiment. BTW, please perform a control sample so that you can compare your results. There are other parameters that affects shrimp breeding. And I believe that everyone is doing what they can to achieve optimum breeding. Constant temperature is difficult to achieve but not complicated. If you have a temperature controlled room, this is very easy (e.g. basement, etc). But for most of us, air conditioning is the closest thing that we got. But year around, house temperature varies depending on the temperature outside. One can get a chiller, but this does not mean that your temperature will be constant due to temperature fluctuations. However, you can minimize the fluctuation by insulation. That said, there will be less temperature fluctuation in winter compare to summer. There are other factors that also affects temperature such as lighting and filtration.
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