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madcrafted last won the day on February 15

madcrafted had the most liked content!

About madcrafted

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    Taiwan Bees, Pintos and Amanos

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  1. madcrafted

    Bacter AE for Shrimplets

    In a tank that size, with that amount of shrimp and heavily planted, you don't need to do much different for the fry. I personally like to feed every 3 days and I have tanks with about the same amount of shrimp as yours, some with a little more. I do like to sprinkle a little sl-aqua magic powder into each tank 10 minutes before feeding. I do this regardless of whether or not there is fry in the tank, so there's a constant source of beneficial bacteria and biofilm residing there at all times, plus the shrimp like to graze on the little bits as the settle. With Bacter AE, I would use less than the recommended dosage. When I was using that product I used a "drop" size measuring spoon (1/64th of a teaspoon) per 12-15 shrimp twice a week. Any more than that seemed to pollute my tank. Even with magic powder, I use a small amount because I feel less is more with these powders in general. I don't have a problem with planaria or hydra but the detritus worms let me know when to ease up on feeding.
  2. madcrafted

    winter breeding

    There are very few published papers on neo/caridina breeding. One of the ones that I've ran across mentions the affects of temperature and very little on photo period, being it was at a constant 12/12 schedule throughout the entire study. This was for the RCS too, btw. Crystals and other bee shrimp have even fewer studies and ALOT of speculation printed on the web. We do know that metabolism and growth slow down in cooler waters as does reproduction. So temperature is a big one. Not so sure about light myself being as I keep a shorter photo period than most at 7-8 hours of light. I have shrimp berried right now but these are hybrids (tibees and galaxy pintos). My PRL's aren't doing anything in these unheated tanks. Temps are between 62-65° F for the last month or so. I'm chalking it up to temperature. What these temperature thresholds are for each given species/sub-species is hard to say but I'd be willing to guess at 68°, my PRLs will be getting busy. It may very well be speculation to say the sex ratio of offspring is also affected by temperature for these particular species. From a logical standpoint, it makes sense that there will be higher percentages of female offspring in cooler water where food sources are abundant in early Spring but this is with wild shrimp, not ornamental shrimp that have been selectively bred for many generations. However, there are reports on the internet of breeders seeing a higher percentage of female offspring during winter breedings. Hardly concrete evidence but worth observing in our own tanks.
  3. madcrafted

    My tank. 13 gallon, details and pics inside!

    The wood provides a nice grazing surface for shrimp. The white stuff is likely fungal based and the shrimp will pick at it. They are probably more interested in the biofilm that is growing on the wood's surface but also eat various things that make up a mixture of what is referred to as periphyton. A small colony of shrimp can survive off the natural food resources in the tank if it's readily available and might not show any interest in commercial foods when offered. If you want, you could try offering a vegetable based food or fresh boiled leaves of spinach, nettles, mulberry, collard greens or any other high calcium leafy green. After boiling, you can freeze them and it will make them easier for shrimp to pick apart. For convenience, I usually just drop pellets of ken's premium veggie sticks in my tanks twice a week and a protein based food once a week. Feel free to experiment. Just be sure to siphon up any uneaten food after 3 hours. A turkey baster comes in handy for this.
  4. madcrafted

    My tank. 13 gallon, details and pics inside!

    I find this very to be a very interesting scape with great placement of hardscape and plants. Never seen anyone use a slate like that either... very unique.
  5. I think it's more like Marified makes soil for UNS, as well as Brightwell.
  6. madcrafted

    SL Aqua Soil pH problems

    Glad to hear they are transitioning well into their new home. Shrimp will generally let you know when there is a problem. I find that the less I fool with parameters and testing, the better off they are. The key to success starts with good soil and SL-Aqua is one of the best, so you made a wise choice there.
  7. madcrafted

    SL Aqua Soil pH problems

    Oh they lay eggs in soft water just the same. All in my mosses and cholla wood. Doesn't bother me much, they eventually just dissolve.
  8. madcrafted

    SL Aqua Soil pH problems

    If you keep them in soft water permanently, they will die sooner than they normally would in waters with normal carbonate levels. You can see the shells getting thinner over time, sometimes even displaying "pits" here and there. I rotate mine between soft water and tanks with tap water. The tap water tanks barely have any algae these days, so when I toss them into my soft water shrimp tanks, they devour whatever algae they can...quickly. Then I move them back after a month or so, leaving only "pesty" snails like ramshorns and bladder to finish up.
  9. madcrafted

    Male or Female

    I still have a difficult time sexing shrimp under 4 months or so, but to me, that looks to be male. That underbelly appears straight when males are young but as they age, it takes on a fish-like shape. Kinda like a slight S-curve shape to the belly. Females are rounder bellied and look more "stout" in general. Not always bigger, but beefier. Sometimes that 2nd scale will overlapp scales 1 and 3, but not always easy to see this in females that haven't carried. I never could go by that antenna trick to sex them. I've seen males with what looked to be short antennas up top.
  10. madcrafted

    SL Aqua Soil pH problems

    Fissidens always the first to show algaes. It's truly a magnet for the stuff. lol I employ the use of nerites and whatever other hitchikers I may get. Right now there's a huge explosion of bladder snails in my tanks but they are keeping the moss clean for me. Reducing light helps a lot with fluffy and filamentous algae. I have all mine wired to dimmers. So, what are these rare mosses you speak of? I like rare mosses too. lol
  11. madcrafted

    SL Aqua Soil pH problems

    Here are the 4 that I just set up back in sept. Nerites devoured that dust algae on the walls... along with most of that brown filamentous algae in the mosses. Plants are just starting to perk up. Nitrates were 2-3 ppm the other day. I have to say though, shrimp seem very happy in sl-aqua soil. My water temps are 62-65° these days, so not much happening as far as breeding but I feel like they will take off this spring.
  12. madcrafted

    SL Aqua Soil pH problems

    Yeah, that's not a big difference. You should be fine. Funny, I've never needed floaters in my tanks and I actually have to dose KNO3 the first few months until bioload increases. My tanks are all nano sized 10 gallons or less. I feed very sparingly and prefer to use magic powder every other day with feedings, so they could contribute to my low levels. Shrimp are always grazing, so they appear to be doing well. I just set up a few more tanks not long ago and I'm still using KNO3. Hopefully these tanks will start booming in the spring and I can ease off nutrient dosing.
  13. madcrafted

    SL Aqua Soil pH problems

    Beautiful tank you got there. I love the creative use of moss and the rotala indica background.
  14. madcrafted

    SL Aqua Soil pH problems

    One other thing to note is that's it's better to add shrimp to water that is slightly less minerals (GH) than adding them to richer mineral tanks. This causes less issues with the molting process due to the osmotic changes that occur when the shell is flooded with salts. There's a whole scientific explanation to this but I'm not smart enough to break it down in detail. lol
  15. madcrafted

    SL Aqua Soil pH problems

    I don't bother with pH readings during acclimation and rarely drip any longer than 4-5 hours and that's only if the difference is drastic, GH-wise. I've even received bee shrimp that were in damn near neo parameters and still only dripped them a few hours. I feel like the longer they are dripping, the longer they are being stressed. Once I've doubled the water volume of bag water with my tank's water, I increase drip rate from about a drop a second to 2 drops a second. I like to use marina HOB breeder boxes for acclimating, but the method is the same when using bowls/buckets. By the time the breeder box gets ready to overflow into my tank, I check water. If it's close, I'll net them into tank. If it's still a degree off GH-wise or if temp is more than a couple degrees off, I'll scoop water out of breeder box and let it continue to drip until they match closer. Rarely is this the case. Usually by the time you add 4-5 times the volume of starting water (bag) with your tank water, it's pretty close.