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uuaaayyy

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uuaaayyy last won the day on March 22

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About uuaaayyy

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    Canada
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    BB, BKK, RKK, pandas, half-sides, WGB. Neos: OR-HGFR-pumpkin-snowballs. Reef.

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  1. Not in my experience, but this should be the same disconnected segments of the exoskeleton, with the same consequence. But white line becomes line of death only if shrimp doesn't molt successfully. I have seen several cased of difficult molting, kind of agonized, laboring movements, then, quite soon, molted old shell and alive shrimp separately. They were new groups of neos, within three weeks after arrival, few of them in observable quarantine. If your shrimp are not new arrivals, see if GH is not too low or not too high, if they have enough protein and minerals in food and if tank water TDS is close to TDS of the water for water changes.
  2. The answer above your question explains how maintaining stability of pH in any water works. Two separate mechanisms, using different buffering systems, KH for alkaline water, buffering substrate for acid water. Regardless from what we want. Without one of them there will be nothing to keep pH stable. Using buffering soil for binding KH permanently doesn't work: aquasoil has to remove interfering with its work KH first, before being able to lower pH, doing this at cost of losing its buffering capacity (see it as a battery with limited charge, after you use part of that, it is gone). And new KH will be added with each water change if use tap water. In addition to exhausting aquasoil buffering capacity, this creates fluctuations of KH and pH, stressing shrimp a lot, what affects their health.
  3. Not an expert, but, if you can, increase GH to 5 dGH, decrease nitrates to 10 ppm, maybe feed in shrimp feeding dish (this allows to keep pollution contained, less noxious bacteria later, and easier to remove uneaten food), and more vacuuming plants at water changes. If this is bacterial infection, in transparent shrimp seen as cloudiness, including legs (from what I have read), this is a problem. I had unexplained wave of deaths in neos colony in hot time of the year, solved with more cleaning and water changes and treatment with Lowkeys Recovers (if not available, fucoidan powder could be found online, but dosing is unknown).
  4. I had similarly looking failed partial molt twice, if different tanks with optimal GH, shrimp couldn't leave partially opened shell. Adding mineral supplement (Genchem White Pellet) as a part of their diet solved this issue for me. But this doesn't work for new neos, in the first few weeks after arrival. Shrimp from some suppliers have this at lesser degree, and the grade of their shrimp is better.
  5. Hard to clean bottom of the tank, a lot of them end up in the bucket and catch each of them to return back takes too long time. General impression is meh... I like more amphipods in marine tanks, they are as rugby players at the time of feeding. Daphnia look better, if only I was able to keep them alive long term, they are like live lava lamp.
  6. I kept neos at 78F too and now keeping them at room temperature, 70-72F. Both groups were alive and well, reproduced fast, good survival of the babies. Only at higher temperature shrimp were more active, everything was faster and had more males in litters. If keep only one tank, healthy stock and aiming for the best, I have an impression that higher than room temperature would be better.
  7. Thank you! It's good to know that there is more that one way and some problems could be avoided.
  8. More than one even measuring spoon, but start with less and increase concentration up to 7-8 dGH (decide on one number and stick to it). Measure TDS of this solution, and next time you can make the same concentration relying on TDS measurements, it's cheaper than testing GH each time. This was advised me and it worked well. Target numbers for neocaridina. 6 dGH and lower TDS is enough, but if you like higher TDS, it also works well.
  9. I have Siporax Mini in similar filter, but anything could be put there, as long as you manage to put Purigen there in 180 microns mesh bag. Large mesh, and Purigen will spread in the tank, hard to remove, not worth the risk.
  10. Thank you, will wait to see if color becomes better. Quality of pictures makes them useless, eye sees more. In general, it looks like most are wild type from solid orange female (bare bottom tank, born between 18 and 28 Jan, 70-72F), and too low quality orange rilis from the rest of females (black sand tank, born 2-3 weeks later, different ages).
  11. Beginner questions again, bear with me: have multiple tanks with variety of neos and Taiwan bees. Planning to do some selective breeding, to keep things interesting, but don't know what yet, waiting for something worth of improving to happen in any of the colonies (have not enough information for a planned breeding yet, for a planned result). Now stuck with a problem how to deal with culls. I got low grade orange rilis, whole was expected average rilis: One of them was completely orange with backstripe. It was pregnant, moved it in a separate tank to exclude this from rilis population. Have no interest in this color and backstripe. One was almost completely clear, with unpleasant shade, kind of greenish hint, would be nice to remove it and its descendants from rilis population too. Then there will be low grade rilis with spots in wrong places, too little or too much of them. Where they should be going? Hope to see the babied growing with expected rili pattern. If they will be, where they will be going? How it is usually done? When one could know when rejects are rejects with no future use for breeding and put them all in one tank? And I have read that removing culls should be done after they reach 1 cm. But these didn't show pattern clearly yet. Maybe I see this wrong way. Advise, please.
  12. Someone mentioned paying attention to co-dominance here, started reading and there is a lot more: polygenic traits are more common than Mendel used co-dominance (spots or both colors for color) incomplete dominance (diluted for color) diluted color gene was mentioned too, as a different instance forgot the word, when changes are made not in the gene but in affected by it proteins production that affects phenotype I guess there is much, much more, and add epigenetics on the pot of this, when changes in phenotype are affected by conditions of the ancestors. And we really don't know genetic passport of the particular shrimp group, bought in LFS. Is there any practical application of all of this to the breeding shrimp? All of them, will be they neos, Taiwn bees, crystals or tigers. Or only parts of it, from own experience, are known? Can you post what you found for the shrimp you are breeding, I am trying to figure out what could be done (at small hobbyist level) with neos and Taiwan bees, and saw explaining articles only for fancy tigers.
  13. Found an article (2009), describing large breeding setups with under-gravel filter and canister filter, connected to it, to reduce organic levels and concentration of noxious germs, with low tech alternative to vacuum bottom twice a week. While in hobbyist tank more common to see "bottom layer where waste and food rest together ". Any thoughts about this for not an expert? So far, at my knowledge, any filter just pulls tank water through all of this, collected on mechanical filter media, and canister filters are cleaned less frequently than more accessible filters. With addition of food TDS will rise, there is no way to reduce organic load and noxious germs without removing uneaten food and waste form tank's "blood stream". Bare bottom and siphoning them out seems to be a more logical way, with pH maintaining active substrate in separate section of the tank (my tanks are common setup, vacuumed weekly and food removed from dishes twice a day). Am I missing something and traditional setup could be improved? Thanks.
  14. They are not available in my area, but you can find on YouTube how to use (and if it's possible to use) fresh leaves, there was a video for catappa leaves. Most posts about using leaf litter in shrimp tanks say that not green, but autumn brown leaves have to be used, after drying them. With rinsing and light boiling before putting them in the tank. Most fruit trees and bushes leaves are usable, hardwood leaves (trees without pine-like sap), nettle, lemon balm. Only shrimp like not all of this, you will see if they accept new food or not.
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