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Inverts You Keep

Found 8 results

  1. So I’m new at both fish keeping and shrimp keeping. Now I have 2 - 5 gallon fish tanks (one with a Hillstream loach, 4 Danios, a couple moss balls and some hornwort. The other has 1 male betta, 2 mystery snails, a moss ball and some hornwort) and 1 - 29 gallon tank that I’m currently trying to cycle (right now it has hornwort, java moss and some spiderwood in it but no fish/snails/shrimp) I’ve been testing my water in all my tanks about once a week. I started my two other fish tanks out of an impulse almost... I saw my betta at Pet Supplies Plus had a tank in my basement and decided I had to take him home... so I hadn’t cycled my 5 gallon tanks before I stuck anything in. I know it’s not good but I hadn’t done any research so I didn’t know better. Now I do. But my question is: I haven’t had ANY nitrites in any of my tanks. My ammonia and nitrates are there... my ammonia hasn’t gotten over 1 ppm and my nitrates haven’t gotten over around 40 ppm in ANY tank that I have. But why am I not seeing any nitrites? Is it Bc my tanks have plants in them? Thank you for reading this super long post and thanks in advance for any advice/answers you can give😊
  2. Hi there, I am Vinny and this is my planted aquarium. it is a 20 long with a screen lid on top. I have had fish since I was nine years old, but I have never had a planted aquarium before. I have always wanted RCS in my tanks as a clean up crew, so that's what I did. When I put these guys in the tank they were all over cleaning plants and scavenging. And then I added fish about two weeks later... I added a golden wonder killi fish along with some small tetras. It seemed like the killi was hunting the RCS so I removed him from the tank. Now ever since I added the killi all my RCS have taken refuge in this plant shown in the picture bellow. The only time I see them leap out of the plant is at night time around 11:30pm... I have no idea what's the matter with them, but they are molting and still look very healthy. I am just concerned about the change in behavior. Any reply would help me so much! Thank you!!!
  3. Hello everyone! Newbie here and an eager learner. I have 3 planted tanks with neos so far . Two of them are dirted with sand cap. One of them I decided to try some Fluval Stratum I had on hand. So far plants are growing well and the orange neos in it are happy. However I am concerned about the FS water parameters as being too acidic: 7dGH, <1dKH, pH=6.1. TDS=270ppm. I read in general the neos prefer pH above 6.5. Thought about putting carbonates in (crushed coral, cuttlebone, KHCO3 liquid) to exhaust the FS, but that kind of defeats the purpose of using Fluval for buffering. What is your experience with neos in buffering substrates and what are your suggestions? Many thanks.
  4. Hey guys NTA again! I have a slight(ish) pest problem in my cherry shrimp tank. I was being a newbie and overfed my little guys for a week or so (I know that was stupid) and now have lots of hydra and one or two planaria. Is there a really good way to kill them without killing my shrimp/plants? I have been trying to directly spray the pests with hydrogen peroxide and have decreased my feed to once every three days. What do I do??? Thanks in advance, NTA
  5. Even though many of you have probably read about or kept Bucephalandra before, I sometimes get questions regarding growth and care so I want to start a Buce specific thread for everyone to benefit and contribute to. If anyone has any information, pictures, new species, fun facts, or anything Buce related, feel free to post it here! Bucephalandra is a genus of flowering plant endemic to Borneo, grown on the banks of fast flowing streams and rivers. There are hundreds of different species, most considered rare in the US aquarium trade despite their growing demand and popularity. They are very similar in appearance to Anubias, with leaves growing out of rhizomes which can be attached to any hard surface using glue or line. Their care is similar to that of Anubias and Cryptocorynes. Rhizomes with a few leaves and roots can be cut and glued or tied to rock and wood for new growth. Although considered a slow grower, they can flourish under high light as well as thrive in low tech tanks alongside Mosses, Ferns and Crypts. Their versatility and ease in care are what make the plant so sought after for planted tanks, paludariums, terrariums, or even ponds. Many species commonly produce flowers. Although some keepers may experience melting leaves when first introducing stressed Bucephalandra to a new tank much like what happens to Cryptocoryne. The plant rarely loses all its leaves and the process of slow and gradual. As long as the rhizome is intact, the plant will be able to bounce back and sprout new growth once acclimated to the tank.
  6. Great High quality plants for planted tank Aquascaping: 6 stems Ammania Bonsai Sp, about 4-6'' long, stems may come with roots, $4.99 6 stems Ludwigia Sp. Super Red Mini, about 6'' long, $4.99 10 stems Lloydiella Golden Lysimachia Nummularia, 6''+ long, $4.99 5 stems water wisteria Hygrophila Difformis, 6'' long, $4.99 3 big stems Nomaphyla Stricta Bonsai, 12'' long, stems may come with roots, $4.99 Shipping: shipping starts from $6.00 USPS. Combined shipping available if you get more than one order. Live arrival guarantee Payment: PayPal dreamer_yoyo@hotmail.com Any question? Feel free to PM me or contact me: dreamer_yoyo@hotmail.com For more complete list of my plants availability, check out: http://plantedaquariumartist.blogspot.com/p/aquatic-plant-availability.html Thank you for visiting! Photo are all my actual plant photos. They are all submerse growing in my tank. You will receive plants I can't say exactly, but very similar as shown in photo. Ammania Bonsai Sp Ludwigia Sp Super Red Mini Lloydiella Golden Lysimachia Nummularia water wisteria Hygrophila Difformis Nomaphyla Stricta Bonsai
  7. Aquatic Plant Glossostigma Elatinoides One of the most popular cover ground plant for nature planted aquarium! The photo is my actual planted aquarium, growing the plants Selling size: one bunch, about the same portion as shown in 2nd photo, with lots of nodes. Beautiful & High Quality as shown in photo. Care Level: intermediate Light: bright light CO2: highly recommended Fertilization: nutrient rich substrate, addition with liquid fertilizer Glossostigma prefer strong light to grow to nice covering ground plant. They do better in a soft and acid environment, nutrient rich substrate, sufficient fertilizing with iron supply, and CO2 injecting. More available Price: $4.99 Shipping: $6.00 USPS. Combined shipping available if you get more than one order. $$Save when you get more$$ Buy 2 get 1 Free When you purchase 2 orders, you will automatically receive 3rd order for free. Live arrival guarantee Payment: PayPal dreamer_yoyo@hotmail.com Any question? Feel free to PM me or contact me: dreamer_yoyo@hotmail.com Thank you for visiting!
  8. Hi everyone, I just joined this forum and have previously documented my adventures on my YouTube channel. However, I would love to start a tank journal here because it would be so great to get some feedback about my tanks from people who've been in my position. My most recent YouTube video shows my current tank set-up, a small clip of my shrimp eating shrimp/snail jello (sadly, nerites prefer algae over all else, but the shrimp love it), and my reaction (somewhat silly now that I watch it again) of my first berried female! I've only had these guys for a week and already have a berried female! Anyway, you can find that video here: Here is my tank set-up as of right now: Fauna: 11 Neon Yellow Shrimp 4 Horned Nerite Snails A whole bunch of tiny unknown snails that I remove on an almost daily basis Flora: 1 Amazon Sword 1 Water Sprite Anacharis Dwarf Sagitarria Crypt Parva Java Moss 3 Marimo Balls Other Decoration: 1 Piece of Cured Driftwood 3 Rocks Lighting: 2 Fluval Mini Power Compact Lamps (Full-spectrum, 13-watt, compact fluorescent bulb with a high CRI value that mimics natural light) Hours/Day: 7 Heater: Aquatop Nano Aquarium Digital Heater with LED D1HT 50W (Set to 70, but it's still very warm here, so the temperature usually fluctuates between 73-76 during the day.) There is a fan that is turned on during the day, but it really doesn't help much because I have to keep a lid on my tank lest my cat make a meal out of my shrimp. Feeding: 1x every 2-3 days, and I remove uneaten food after 2-3 hours. I alternate between Borneo Wild Grow and my own recipe of shrimp/snail jello (which is really just a combination of veggies high in calcium, spirulina algae, and shrimp food to help with shell growth and molting). You can find my recipe for that here: I also purchased Shirakura Ebi Dama for them, but this bag of shrimp food quickly became dog food. =( I will probably purchase it again later when I place a large enough order to justify the shipping cost. Current Tank Parameters: Temperature: 73 F pH: 6.6 kH: 2 gH: 8 TDS: 163 Ammonia: 0 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm < current level < 0.25 ppm (the color is inbetween 0 and 0.25) Nitrate: 10 ppm This is the second time the nitrites have risen close to 0.25 ppm. The first time was about a week or two after setting up my tank. I just did a 25% water change to get both the nitrites and nitrates down a little lower. The nitrate levels also rose up to 40 ppm the other day, and I have since done two 50% water changes to get it back down to 10 (and then the 25% water change afterward). Maybe that's too much, but the shrimp seem to be doing fine. I read someone's analogy somewhere that made a lot of sense about water changes when levels get toxic. (I'll post a link if I can find the original source.) He pretty much said if you were trapped inside a garage with your car running and carbon monoxide levels building, would you open the garage door immediately to let all the toxic air out or would you slowly open it so that the change in atmosphere doesn't "shock" you. Neon Yellow Shrimp, being the same species as Red Cherry Shrimp, are a little more hardy and seem to be able to adapt to new conditions quickly, which is why I've been doing large water changes with little fear. However, large water changes on an almost daily basis are not ideal as that means that the water conditions cannot or will not remain stable (which is also concerning). Any recommendations on how to stabilize this other than frequent large water changes would be welcome! Thanks!! =) Sincerely, Christine
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