Ch3fb0yrdee Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Well, what I mean is that light doesn't affect nitrifying bacteria. it doesn't live in the water column but medias in the filter. and algae is good thing for shrimp, that's their main food source. I never had any algae issue unless I don't have good healthy colony. I can show you photos for comparison: good colony: _DSC0897.jpg only few shrimp in the tank: _DSC0637.jpg you can see shrimp did very good job to clean the tank. Ohhh Ohhh! Gotcha! Sorry. Yes, nitrifying bacteria do not care for light much, if any. Op's algae issue could be stemming from the photo periods during cycling, if he is in fact leaving lights on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ch3fb0yrdee Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Apologies, James. [emoji1] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesHe Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Apologies, James. [emoji1] No need, my friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Aquatics Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Best way to defeat Clado algae? littlebirdie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countryboy12484 Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I used peroxide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Aquatics Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I used peroxide So i take out all my plants and dip them in peroxide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ch3fb0yrdee Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 So i take out all my plants and dip them in peroxide? Wait. Are you still cycling? I'm confused. Typically I cycle in a lightless and plantless environment. Lights and decay plants will increase organics inside a cycling tank, compounding algae problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countryboy12484 Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Yeah or you can spot treat it in your tank... Dilute the peroxide if you do a dip and if you use it in your tank use very small doses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ch3fb0yrdee Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 H2O2 is my go to product for algae as well. Good stuff especially at $1 for 500ml. Adding carbon might help. Also purigen for the excessive organics. countryboy12484 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Aquatics Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Wait. Are you still cycling? I'm confused. Typically I cycle in a lightless and plantless environment. Lights and decay plants will increase organics inside a cycling tank, compounding algae problems. The tank with this issue atm is my mature tank. I dosed a bit of stability to see what would happen after my water change and it created chaos. My tanks that are cycling are only developing hair algae that can be easily removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Aquatics Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 My ammonia/nitrite/nitrate are at 0 so I guess purigen is my best bet to see if that resolves my algae issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ch3fb0yrdee Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 That's very strange. I use stability for all my tanks ranging from now tech low light no fertilization to high tech fertilized tanks and no hair algae or any algae beside brown. If organics is causing the problem some purigen will help mediate that problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Aquatics Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 That's very strange. I use stability for all my tanks ranging from now tech low light no fertilization to high tech fertilized tanks and no hair algae or any algae beside brown. If organics is causing the problem some purigen will help mediate that problem. how would I use purigen for a tank with only a sponge filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ch3fb0yrdee Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 It is a difficult situation with a sponge filter. The only way I see this working would be to tie the purigen in a small filter bag and suspend it somehow on front of the outflow of the sponge filter and have what little water circulating out tank hit the purigen. If you were to introduce a water pump, you'd need a filter guard but it's simple from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Aquatics Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 So do people use HOB filter for 10G? If yes, which one? Wouldn't the water flow be a bit too extreme for shrimp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countryboy12484 Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Check out the mini rapids canister Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtletanks91 Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 Actually. Niyrifying bacteria lives in the top 1cm of substrate and on deco. But its only 1% of it. I see no way for it to work with a sponge filter unless you feel like a DIY. Take a small cylinder like PVC, get some caps drill holes and connect it to the boy tome part of the sponge filter. And the cut the top and connect it to the top of the PVC cap. Then you have a media chamber. countryboy12484 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 So do people use HOB filter for 10G? If yes, which one? Wouldn't the water flow be a bit too extreme for shrimp? I use an AC30 or AC50 for a 10G. I use a double sponge filter as pre-filter for AC and that reduces the flow a bit. Plus if the flow is too strong I can always turn it down a bit (ACs are adjustable). Since AC30,50,70 all share the same motor, they use the same amount of electricity, with a bigger model you can stuff in more filter media. And because you can stuff more in, you are okay to use the less effective ones (cheaper). Here is what I mean by pre-filter... for $2, probably the best way to prevent babies from being sucked into the filter. And this is how I connect the sponge filter to AC HOB. Just wrap a stripe of filter floss on the uplifting tube of the sponge, then insert into the HOB intake. Works great and almost free. Elo500 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Aquatics Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Anyone know why after using DrTim's Aquatics Ammonium chloride for Aquarium, it says 1 drop per gallon for 2ppm. I dropped in 10 drops for 8gallons of water. Waited 24 hours. Tested water. Ammonia, Nitrite,Nitrate are all 0. I use API Test Kit. The tank is new and only has sponge filter from my established tank. Am I doing something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtletanks91 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Either your test kit is wrong. The sponge filter is working very well or the product is bad. If you use prime however everything will bind and not be present either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Aquatics Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Prime should have no effect. I waited 3 days after filling up water before starting cycle. The test kit is rather new. Got it about about 4 months ago from Amazon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtletanks91 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Prime will nutrilize ammonia or bind it for 24 hours. Which effcts nitrite and nitrate because here's no ammonia to produce it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Aquatics Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Weird... I just filled a cup with tap water and added 2 drops of ammonia. After 3 hours, the ammonia reading is still 0? What's going on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtletanks91 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Your test kit is bad. What's the expiration date on it. try pounding the bottles on a hard surface let then sit for an hour and try again. Your following the instructions to the t? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Aquatics Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Yes i'm following the instructions. The expiration dates are 2019. Far from expiring. After pounding the bottles on my sink and doing another test. I'm finally getting a reading of .25ppm ammonia which is still wrong. Guess i'll wait 1 hour and see what it gets too. Added 2 drops of 1gallon = 2ppm ammonia in a small styrofoam cup. So the ammonia reading should be off the roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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