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Bee shrimp GH

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Ok, so GH is a basic parameters we all know in our tanks, but still there seems to be contradictory information about what is the proper GH for bee shrimp.

 

1. GH of 6

2. GH 3-4

 

The claim one basically says that GH 6 provides enough nutrients for successful molt, but also added benefits: snippet from the shirakura site provides a good summary of that claim:

 

Quote

A total hardness (GH) greater than 5 is also important as a lack of minerals could lead to molting problems; furthermore, the microorganisms necessary for cleaning the water also do better at a higher GH.

 

On the other hand most Asian breeders claim that one should aim for GH in the range of 3-4, as lower GH equals... easier moulting. This claim is based on the assumption that with higher GH the shell gets thicker and as a result it gets more difficult for shrimp to moult. Obviously this claim is supported by the great success Asian breeders have with shrimp.

 

So is there a conclusion to this ? Which approach is actually better for bee shrimp ?

 

 

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Well the other question would be along the lines of; what are considered the essential Meso minerals?  And are there other chemicals that should be included to bump up the conductivity?  Seeing how that these meso minerals don't always increase the conductivity enough when used by themselves?

 

Like natural humic and tannic acids, and certain salts other than sulfates. Chloride gets a lot of bad press in both planted and shrimp tanks.

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I go for about 4 myself but I am not super strict in it. 

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I know this is an older thread, but I have the same question.  One of the most recommended  remineralizer manufacturer recommends a target of GH 6 (Salty Bee GH+).  I wonder if there is a difference between water parameters for breeding purposes, compared to an “end user” who wants to keep healthy shrimp for a reasonable amount of time to enjoy looking at them?

Also, we don’t know what some of the breeders put in their water.

So, if I use a remineralizer specifically made for keeping bee shrimp, and use less than the recommended amount in order to have a lower GH, I think I run the risk of not having enough of certain chemicals? Is it best just to stick with the manufacturer’s recommendation? Thanks

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On 3/20/2018 at 4:57 PM, Learning said:

I know this is an older thread, but I have the same question.  One of the most recommended  remineralizer manufacturer recommends a target of GH 6 (Salty Bee GH+).  I wonder if there is a difference between water parameters for breeding purposes, compared to an “end user” who wants to keep healthy shrimp for a reasonable amount of time to enjoy looking at them?

Also, we don’t know what some of the breeders put in their water.

So, if I use a remineralizer specifically made for keeping bee shrimp, and use less than the recommended amount in order to have a lower GH, I think I run the risk of not having enough of certain chemicals? Is it best just to stick with the manufacturer’s recommendation? Thanks

Learning the recommendations on the SS GH+ Manufacturer are way outdated and we have come a long way, GH 6 is too high for high end stuff like new lines of pintos while CRS may do good in 6GH other fancy shrimp or Imported shrimp won't do good at all and you run the risk of having molting issues, I would match your parameters to the breeder's parameters, I keep most of my shrimp at GH 4 except for my Tibees, I keep those at GH 5.

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On 4/28/2018 at 11:59 PM, Learning said:

What do the pro breeders use to get GH at 2-4 with TDS 80-120?  Salty shrimp won't get the TDS that high with the GH2-4.  Do they use a commercially available product, or their own mixture? 

 

I'm not really sure but I think its fine to have a GH of 5 with a TDS of about 150 and I use Salty Bee Shrimp GH+. My CRS and Taiwan Bees are doing fine :) 

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