Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. I was told that the brown leaves have a weakened cell structure, which lets the shrimp break them down easier.
  3. I'm trying cycle my tank and wasn't sure if the following moss will survive... 1. I have weeping moss, willow moss, fissiden, and subwassertang. Will any of these moss melt during cycle. I've heard subwassertang is best added after cycling. 2. I have some biofilm on my long driftwood. Is it advisable to glue moss on to it?
  4. Has anyone used Seachem Matrix in their canister filter for shrimp tank? Thank You!
  5. Last week
  6. Hi, I am looking for Pete Mang or seller lotsoffish.  I believe he is from Buffalo.  Thanks in advance for your help!

    Bri

  7. Hello AmanoNoob....how many amanos do you have? Everyone will tell you about the "dance" that male shrimp display when a female is ready for breeding. How often are they behaving that way? Is it just the males or is everybody acting like that?
  8. Marks Shrimp Tanks is a leader in this hobby. Really nice guy, too.
  9. How long did your snail live after this? Did the egg membrane not eventually rot? And do you know why egg membranes are used? I have a snail that needs help and I definitely want to know the ins and outs to using an egg for patch work before trying it myself. Thanks for posting
  10. Close to end of summer here, should I collect my leaves while they're still green on the tree or should I wait until they turn brown? In the past I collected brown leaves while they were still on the tree, boiled them and then dried for the rest of the year. I've recently read that the green leaves have more nutrition. I have a safe Magnolia tree that I use one leaf per week in each tank.
  11. Hello all, I have noticed that there are times my Amano shrimp just kinda go spastic running around the tank. Normally they graze the day away eating algae off my plants / decor within the tank but occasionally they all just flip a switch and start swimming around the tank crazily the whole population of them. All the while my small lot of tetras and raspboaras didnt show any behavior difference. But it was really noticeable that something was different for the shrimp. I am new to the hobby so assuming something was wrong with the water chemistry or building up within the tank I would do a 30-
  12. Earlier
  13. Yea when I get new shrimp I'm checking them frequently and counting them everyday. Once I see a berried female I relax a little, but once I see babies then that's when I stop worrying as much. It's definitely an awesome feeling and an accomplishment to finally have babies. There's definitely more hiding I'm sure. Now you can just sit back and watch the babies grow!
  14. that definitely makes me feel better. I’m so happy!! I seen at least 3 I know there has to be more hiding
  15. That's awesome! If babies are born and raised in your water parameters, I believe they become stronger than the parents so once I see babies growing up to at least smaller juvenile size (1/4 inch or so) then I feel pretty confident about the colony. Hope they do well for you and that you have many more babies in the future!
  16. Have you thought about breeding it with a yellow neo? It sorta looks like a green neo as well. Have you used a finnex breeder? I use one when I’m wanting to do selective breeding.
  17. My first Sighting of one of the babies!!! IMG_4392.mp4
  18. Hello all, Im pretty new to shrimps and they seem to be a much more delicate creature than fish. I have used water which I have let sit for a couple of days with a little bit of API stress coat(much lower than recommended). I use API Stress Coat for my fishes and was wondering if it was shrimp safe and what are other options for water conditioners for shrimps. Also after using the API Stress Coat, should I add mineral salt to the aquarium?
  19. @Shrimpygirl Congrats! When I notice eggs hatching and the babies surviving then I start to worry less about if my shrimp are doing okay in the tank or not. Problem with shrimp I've noticed is that sometimes they won't give you many signs that somethings going on unless you're really paying attention to them and know what to look for. But like roagland said fluval stratum is a pretty weak buffering substrate so I'd assume over time the kh in the water change water will deplete the buffering activity of the soil. Neos tend to like at least a little kh so I'd personally recommend gh/kh+. Yea for
  20. I really appreciate the advice. My shrimp just had the babies the other day haven’t seen them yet. But excited. And found another one will eggs. I agree with the SS GH/KH. I was nervous about this rout because I was worried it would cause PH swings because of the buffering substrate. That’s why I wanted you get an opinion on which I should use the SS GH+ or SS GH/KH. Yes I know it was making me feel bad about getting the wrong substrate advised by others. And was confused because they seam to be doing well on the substrate.
  21. OEBTs can be tricky because now they're being bred and raised in both neo and caridina parameters, so I think the best would be to check with the person you bought them from and get your parameters as close as you can to theirs. I'd say consistency matters more than perfect water parameters as long as the parameters are at least close or within the range of ideal. That being said, OEBTs originally were raised and bred in neo parameters and I keep RCS and OERBTs together in neo parameters (ph 7.6-7.8, gh 10, kh 4). Fluval statums a buffering substrate meaning that it will help to soften the wat
  22. I'd also agree with roagland. If your shrimps are doing well and have been for that long, and especially if they're able to successfully breed and have babies that're able to survive, then I would keep things the same. From personal experience, I know it's tempting to want to change everything in your tank to match what more experienced hobbyists do and tell you to do, but lots of change in a short amount of time can be more harmful. Neos have become very hardy especially if they're homebred in the US. I got ROASTED for sharing my caridina water parameters on another group because they weren't
  23. This forum was recommended to me as I'm trying to sort out the parameters for my shrimp. I currently have Orange Eyed Blue Tigers, Bloody Mary Neos, and Amano. The aquarium has been running since January, with my OEBT and Bloody Mary added last month (no breeding as of yet, but they're reaching a mature size now I believe). I did research on them and tried to find a good median parameters, but there's a lot of inconsistency between sources as to what the Tigers need. I recently rescaped the aquarium and took the opportunity to replace the inert substrate with Fluval Stratum at the recommendati
  24. Typically it is suggested that you start with an inert substrate for neocaridina, but there is really no reason to switch your active substrate out since you are having success. Fluval stratum is regarded as one of the poorest active substrates and based on your pH, it isn't causing you any problems. It looks like you are doing well. I wouldn't change anything!
  25. My mind is spinning with all the information. I’m stuck in a rabbit hole. I’m using a active substrate Fluval stratum that buffers to 6.8 atm. I’m told by some they need inert which doesn’t alter PH. And I’ve heard some say there shrimp are doing good in FS. My shrimp seam to be doing good. There’s 5 3 girls and 2 boys. 2 of my girls are saddled and one is about to have babies. I’m not seeing any molting problems. They have been in this tank for 2 months. The soil is at least 4 months old. I put them in after cycling was complete a little over a month. I’m using cuttlebone bone, shrimp a
  26. Usually things like carbon or purigen should be removed during treatment so they don't neutralize the active ingredients.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...