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So I'm in the process of starting over from scratch at my new place and currently setting up the bigger shrimp compared to past ones. 

 

Doing WC's in the past I would drip new water into tank and take my time. Keep in mind this was with a 5g-10g tanks so even slow drop would not take long doing a 10% WC

 

Now with a 30g tank I don't know if I have the patience to drip water every time I do a WC. So was curious if you guys have no problem just dumping new water into tank with minimal negative results?

 

Extra info: using ADA soil and RO water that is pretty much matching tank parameters. 

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When I do water change, I use lee's breeder box and just pour all the water directly into the breeder box so nothing gets disturbed. Finish my water change in roughly 1 minute for 20% change. I don't see any negative results. Everything is the same other than temperature for the new water.

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I too have no negative results by using straight tap water and 40% wc every week. I use a python hooked up directly to the faucet just add a little seachem safe and go :)

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So I'm in the process of starting over from scratch at my new place and currently setting up the bigger shrimp compared to past ones. 

 

Doing WC's in the past I would drip new water into tank and take my time. Keep in mind this was with a 5g-10g tanks so even slow drop would not take long doing a 10% WC

 

Now with a 30g tank I don't know if I have the patience to drip water every time I do a WC. So was curious if you guys have no problem just dumping new water into tank with minimal negative results?

 

Extra info: using ADA soil and RO water that is pretty much matching tank parameters. 

 

FYI. The longer you drip, the worse it will get. This is because it prolongs the water chemistry instability period.

 

What I suggest you is to turn up your pump/filter flow and change the water at one whole shot. If your pump/filter is powerful enough, the water will chemistry will be stabilise (to be exact is in full equilibrium) within a couple of hours.

 

The key factor of successful WC is that you need to pre-mix the RO+salts beforehand. Mix it at least 24 hours before (if you are using dry salt, you will need much longer time) and run a air-pump+air-stone or powerhead to mix the water first. So when you know it is ready? Measure the pH of the water and it should be as per what the manufacturer states.

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"FYI. The longer you drip, the worse it will get. This is because it prolongs the water chemistry instability period."

 

That's exactly why I use airline hose.  Personally, I WANT to prolong the change for the shrimp to have a longer time to adapt to the changes that are occurring.

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In my normal tap water tank I just go with a boom one dumb technique, but my concern in a tank use RO water and ADA soil is that the new water wont be as exact as I think and sudden swing in PH/TDS might cause a problem. 

 

Are you guys doing quick WC's on tanks with CRS,TB's, Tigers or anything that might be considered more fussy with water?

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In my normal tap water tank I just go with a boom one dumb technique, but my concern in a tank use RO water and ADA soil is that the new water wont be as exact as I think and sudden swing in PH/TDS might cause a problem. 

 

Are you guys doing quick WC's on tanks with CRS,TB's, Tigers or anything that might be considered more fussy with water?

 

I do quick WC on all my tanks. For sensitive shrimps, I have almost all blue-based TB, Blue Diamond OEBT shrimps, Zebra Pinto, Spotted Head Pinto and Sulawesi shrimps.

 

Imagine a hardcore./commercial shrimp breeder has like 50 to 100 tanks. If every tank has to be drip, I doubt he can do anything else. LOL!!!

 

The key thing is to make sure you pre-mix the RO and salts until it is in stable state and the salts are not aggressive/unstable.

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I premix my RODI and Remineralizer, then just pour directly into the aquarium pending the temperature difference. I only ever do a 15-20% water change at a time.

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After reading this thread I am really confused. So far I have always thought CRS/CBS/Taiwan breeders should prefer drip accomodation method for WC but now after reading lots of people are using direct change after the water is ready I am really surprised.  :phew:

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FYI. The longer you drip, the worse it will get. This is because it prolongs the water chemistry instability period.

I disagree, Dripping in a w/c is the most stable way of doing a w/c, nature dose it drop by drop when it rains and so do I.
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I'm curious about this subject and how people are so fearful of performing fast/quick waterchanges.

If the following points are valid, I don't see a reason why fast/quick water changes would cause an issue.

1. You're using the same mineralizer.

2. You're mineralizing your source water (hopefully RO so you know where your start and end is).

3. Your waterchange volume is 10-20%.

Example:

I know for a fact that when using salty shrimp, if I get my TDS to 110-115 using RO water I'll get gH: 6 and kH: 0. Given that I'm not altering my tank's GH and kH, there should be no issue performing a 10-20% weekly because I'm adding in water matching my tank's parameters. The only thing that would be different between tank and waterchange water is the TDS and temp, which usually creeps higher due to ferts and pollutants such as poop and other organics. Because I'm only performing 10% weekly, the difference in temp isn't significant enough to shock anyone. I have bigger temperate swings during the day/night from heating and cooling. The core parameters is the same, if anything you're taking dirty water and replacing it with cleaner water. Given that I don't pour new water in, I'm still using the airline method which clears 1gal per 2-3 mins. It's not drop slow and it's not pouring water fast but it's still relatively fast.

As long as you allow the salts and water to age in an appropriate amount of time it should be no problem. Plus, most of us have multiple tanks (I have 10 tanks) so "ain't no body got time" to drip.

Ps: I use to preform MUCH larger waterchange weekly and I've never had deaths (upwards of 50%). Just be smart about what you're doing. [emoji1]

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I have two 15G tanks as RO water reservoirs on the top shelf (one remineralized, one straight for top offs), when I do do  water change, I remove enough water from tank, use an airline tube to drip. I control how much will be going down by placing the height of the end of the tube so I don't even need to be around while it's dripping. When topping off, it's the same process except not having to remove some old water from tank.

 

I used to just pour the water from a bucket, now since I don't need a bucket (using gravity instead which is free and less labour), I now drip. Not because I think it's necessary, it's just easier for me now.

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I don't think it's fear based just personal preference, as experience comes so dose confidence to try new things out of necessity or need.

You're absolutely correct. With experience comes confidence. I can still remember meticulously testing and stressing over parameters for my first CRS tank. Testing during each water change and doing what many of the things you did.

As we gain more experience and become more successful, our limits for risk increases. I know I'm more prone to risk taking and testing because I have a larger pool of test subjects (my PRL and Taiwan Bee) available. The risk of losing or restarting is minimized.

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I like the control I have dripping in water changes, when dealing with sensitive shrimp , berried shrimp or shrimplets few days old I would recommend dripping your water changes. I just see it as a safety net and I think if your having high mortality rate of young dripping in your water changes could help increase survival rates.

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