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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/04/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Has anybody heard of this shrimp, the "green lace filter shrimp"? I'm very interested in buying some but I can't find any place that sells them or ships to where I live! Another thing to note is that there isn't much info on them, so if anyone here who has had experience keeping them can give me some pointers, then that would be great! Photo credits to Aquatic Arts
  2. 1 point
    I bought 5 bumblebee shrimp recently, and I put them in a 5 gallon fluval tank with 9 fish, I figure that those fish will greatly reduce any chances my bumblebees will breed. I have another tank, a 2.6 gallon Fluval which has around 35 cherries in it including shrimplets. However, that tank has hydra and a somewhat high GH of 120 ppm. What would be my best course of action for my bumblebees? It is important to note that I intend to begin a colony! and that I also have 3 black neos with them in the 5 gallon.
  3. 1 point

    Should I be concerned?

    Nope it is called a blackline. It is pretty common in neos (usually females) and nothing to worry about.
  4. 1 point

    Fluctuating dissolved oxygen

    Why are you turning on and off an additional air pump? It sounds like your main filter is a HOB (hang on back), is that accurate? If so adding an additional source of air occasionally won't hurt your shrimp.
  5. 1 point

    shrimp Tanks

    a video with shrimp tanks
  6. 1 point
    They belong to different lines and color works in an opposite way, opaque red shell vs transparent shell and colored flesh. There is a change of getting wild color type babies, if dominant genes are there. If babies inherit opaque shell and red flesh, flesh will be not seen under opaque shell. If babies inherit transparent shell and clear body, there will be no red at all. Neocaridina seem to have a lot of polygenic traits, when one trait (red shell, for example, or red flesh color) relies on several genes, even more combinations with unknown consequences are possible.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point

    Post Your Shrimp Pics

  9. 1 point

    3d Shrimp - Need help with Anatomy

    Heres the latest version of the work: https://sketchfab.com/models/ed393558728942c2996fca1067325594
  10. 1 point
    We periodically go through our inventory and review what's proven to be popular, unpopular, and just plain...well, dull. We tend to remove the "dull" stuff from the inventory...We may get excited about a certain botanical item, but if you don't, well- it doesn't really matter, huh? And we receive a lot of questions about various botanicals and how to utilize them, which is a lot of fun for us, because we're full of ideas about them! One of the questions we're asked a lot is, "Will this botanical work with_________?" And the reality is, most of these botanicals will work with fishes that are accustomed to having submerged materials in their environments (hmm, that's like, ALL fishes, right?). Granted, it's not really appropriate (particularly from a chemical standpoint) for say, Catappa leaves to be included in your Mbuna tank, or for a brackish water system, but you could probably how in some of the harder, less "reactive" items, like "Jungle Pods", "Savu Pods", etc. Other fishes, like my beloved Characins, Apistos, Plecos, etc., are perfectly fine with almost any of the botanicals you'd want to use, taking into account aesthetics and such! You could. I'm not sure that you'd necessarily want to. One group of hobbyists who are very much into using botanicals in a wide variety of situations is shrimp keepers. Those of you who keep the colorful Caridina, Neocaridina, etc. have realized for a long time that shrimp are not particularly fussy when it comes to what they eat and graze on! The real "limiting factor", in my opinion, with the use of aquatic botanicals in a shrimp aquarium is the issue of creating stable environmental parameters and maintaining high water quality. In smaller aquarium, such as are typical for shrimp, the impact of ANYTHING we place in them on the environment is potentially critical. It's not secret that, under certain chemical parameters, (i.e.; very soft, already acidic water) aquatic botanicals can influence pH more significantly than in more alkaline, more "hard" conditions, so you'd want to do what we recommend for any situation: Go slowly and monitor. In a small shrimp aquarium, the influx of a large amount of organic material into a small, but established, stable environment can degrade water quality rapidly, and create a possible ammonia spike or other nasty problems! Again, it's about going SLOWLY! As far as what shrimp will consume, my experience with my own shrimp and aquatic botanicals is that they will graze on ANYTHING that recruits biofilm and/or algae, and actually physically consume many of the botanicals which have softer internal components to them. There are literally dozens and dozens of products, including things like dried leaves and other botanicals (some of which we carry), marketed as (supplemental) shrimp feeds...and I think it's entirely correct and accurate to label them as such. Now granted, it's hard to say what exactly the shrimp are consuming of the actual botanicals, and what nutrition they're deriving from the various seed pods, etc. that we offer. I did some research online (that internet thing just might catch on...) and learned that in aquaculture of shrimp, a tremendous variety of vegetables, fruits, etc. are utilized, and many offer good nutritional profiles for shrimp, in terms of protein, amen acids, etc. In fact, other than sorting through mind-numbing numbers ( .08664, etc) on various amino acid concentration of say, Mulberry leaves versus say, Sugar Beets, or whatever, there are not huge differences making any one food superior to all others, at least from my very cursory examination! What is interesting is that some foodstuffs, such as various seeds, root vegetables, etc. DO have different levels of elements such as calcium and phosphorous, and widely varying crude protein. Now, I have no idea what some of the seed pods we offer as aquatic botanicals contain in terms of protein or amino acids, but one can make some huge generalizations that one seed/fruit is somewhat similar to others, in terms of basic amino acids, vitamins, trace elements, etc. What that tells me, the over-caffeinated, under-educated armchair "scientist"-wannabe, is that most of the botanicals we offer here at Tannin have nutritional values that are acceptable for shrimp health, when not their sole "diet." In other words, one botanicals is pretty much as good as any other, so use whichever ones you prefer to 'scape your tank...perhaps with a bit of an eye towards the ones that we know from experience that shrimp seem to be particularly attracted to. Which ones are those? Well, in no particular order, here are the ones that we've noticed (along with our customers) that shrimp seem to really go for: "CAPSULA PODS" "TEARDROP PODS" "FLOR RIO" PODS "CONCHA PODS" "HELIX PODS" LOQUAT LEAVES "RA CAMA" PODS MISC WOOD AND PODS "MANTA PODS" (COMING SOON!) So, the bottom line is that, if you're into shrimp, you'd be in pretty good shape to utilize most any of the above botanicals- or just about any of the many we offer, as long as you go slowly, prepare them for use, and apply a healthy dose of common sense and environmental parameter monitoring during their use. It's fun to look to new supplemental feed sources that provide natural grazing and foraging opportunities for our shrimp; and if they happen to look cool in your aquarium- well, that's a real bonus! Stay enthusiastic. Stay informed. Stay experimental... And Stay Wet! Scott Fellman Tannin Aquatics
  11. 1 point

    Pure Taiwan Bees

    I don't know if this will help, but perhaps it will illustrate some options. If you look at horse color genetics you see a basic two color option, black or red. There are no other options for the main horse color. But we all know we see more than that. On the main gene, they can be red or black. Then look at another gene and it can have red or not. If it has red, that makes the body color red but you can still tell the main gene color by the color of the mane and tail. So when you might've had a black horse, now you have a red horse with a black mane and tail (bay). So those two genes give you 3 colors but 1 gene combination (red on red) that is kinda hiding. On top of those and in yet another location is dilutions. A single dilution (heterozygous) on a red horse will produce a golden color (palamino), then a double dilution (homozygous) gives you a cream colored horse (cremello). You also have these options on the black based horses with and without that secondary red gene to produce other colors. There are many more variations, but this demonstrates (I hope) how colors can be affected by different locations on the dna.
  12. 1 point

    Pure Taiwan Bees

    The most important thing when discussing something like this is to keep in mind that we are ASSUMING dominant/recessive genetic relationships determine shrimp morphs. This does seem to make sense, but not entirely. Now, to predict offspring (such as a pure breeding line), we need a bit more background on simple genetics. I'd suggest googling it a bit as it is not too confusing and most of us have learned it at one point in high school. A "pure" breeding line can mean two things. 1. The specimens breed true. This is how we characterize shrimp strains like fire reds, where the strait we are looking for is a polygenetic strait (a quantitative trait). Multiple genes work together to determine how red a shrimp is. When we say this strain breeds true, we say that these shrimps have enough modifier genes, which pass on to offspring, to make them red also. This is not the case for Taiwan bees. 2. Assuming dominant/recessive relationships determining Taiwan bee gene, black/red gene, a "true breeding" strain means that these specimens have all the same homozygous genes. This is, homozygous black gene for every shrimp in the strain, so that the only gene passed down from each parent is the black gene, so each offspring has again two copies of the black gene. So, in our case, any simple dominant/recessive trait can be pure line. However, since one gene is dominant over another, it is difficult (or impossible) to differentiate between heterozygous and homozygous dominant specimens (since this is the definition of dominance). Therefore, assuming that black is dominant over red, it is more difficult to create a pure black strain, because your goal is to have all homozygous specimens in your colony. To answer some of your questions, your black TB tank may or may not produce non-black shrimps. If they are homozygous black, they will produce only black shrimps. Many big breeders in Taiwan have created pure strains. They keep black with black, red with red. As we have discussed, a red shrimp must be homozygous recessive, so a red strain must be pure (meaning no black shrimp will be produced). However, constantly culling red shrimps produced from a black colony decreases the red allele frequency in a colony, and can eventually make a colony have no red allele, meaning all alleles are black and all shrimps have homozygous black. As we can see, in order to understand these questions, we need to know which gene determine which trait as well as the relationship between each allele. This will be a lot of theorizing with minimal backing data simply because of how we keep shrimps (in colonies). It'll take years of dedicated work to understand shrimp genetics. We are just not there yet. Having said that, I have first-hand experienced Taiwan bee parents producing non-Taiwan bee offspring and red shrimps producing black offspring, which threw off all previous discussion. Why? I really have no clue. Could be high chance of mutation that are converting recessive alleles back to dominant ones (and vice versa, just not observed). Could also be other special genetic relationships that we do not understand yet. Sorry for the long response, but I've always been interested in discussing genetics. The short answer to your questions is that red, blue, black Taiwan bees should theoretically all be able to be pure. Wine reds and blue bolts should already be pure, whereas a pure black line needs to be selected with some luck. Also, a pure line, as defined above, is unrelated to "quality" and aesthetics.
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