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Everything posted by Revaria

  1. When you keep neocaridinas and caridina shrimp together generally 1 set will do much better depending on your parameters. In your situation the caridina would do better. And mixing shrimp well you can get generally anything for instance if you mix blue and red neocaridinas they can throw multi colored shrimp and even purple neocaridina. In your case if you like the black and white types of shrimp and are not worried about mixing them, what about keeping some black crystals as they can fit the tank parameters and black crystals do throw red crystals from time to time. Just make sure to quarant
  2. Oh wow this is quite cool, it would have been useful when I first started. My only critics would be that although weight is more accurate than scoops I don't think many of us will use a balance to measure the weight of salty shrimp.
  3. For me reducing feedings will reduce the amount of hydra within the tank over a few weeks as they starve out, after which most of the remainders will be left on the first few inches on the top of the glass where they can be removed manually with a scouring pad after you drain the water a bit. For the ones on my sponge filters I swapped them out with some spare filters which are floating in other tanks and boiled the infested sponges.
  4. Wow you are going through some crazy experiments, congratulations. Its cool that your sharing your work with us, thanks I hope you are able to get them breeding in total freshwater or close to it.
  5. To me from that angle that looks like a male of breedable size, however its winter so whether they breed or not is questionable even if they don't breed you can probably get them to grow to breedable size by spring so they do start to mate as soon as the weather changes.
  6. LOL I consider bashing to be marking down every negative thing about a product relentlessly which is basically what I did. I just try to be polite as possible cause it is way too easy to commit social suicide on the internet nowadays and I like this forum. Regarding the dosing instructions I just meant that a lot of people have questions about it and they still have not clarified the dosing instructions of the powder on their product which in my opinion would decimate shrimp tanks. I didn't think about them fixing their website, but you do make a good point they haven't fixed anyt
  7. Unfortunately medicating shrimp in the hobby is somewhat still new and there are diseases that we cannot identify nor treat once they are identified. I myself have never had to medicate my shrimp so far in my hobby and have no experience regarding identifying them or treating them as well. Here is the site I was using back when I started and was researching common shrimp diseases, but regarding treatment its quite iffy. There are also youtube sources that talk about shrimp diseases like on Rachel o Leary's channel, I hope these sources help. https://www.aquariumcreation.com/blogs
  8. Cyanoacrylates are the aquarium safe superglue, from what I know about them mixing it with water causes it to harden which may be why it says that. Once they have harden it should be aquarium safe.
  9. Well your plan sounds good plan, just keep in mind that changes in temperature more than 2-3 degrees at once can be stressful to shrimp and fish. As for the tannins from the wood if you do a 30-40% water change every 2 weeks I do not think your pH will get altered much or at all as you will be removing most of those tannins, especially if its a small piece of wood. Some other things to keep in mind are that shrimp don't produce that much waste, so a 30-40% water change may be a bit much. If you plan to feed them less now that its colder, changing too much water may cause you to needlessly wast
  10. Those parameters look just fine and are similar to my cherry shrimp, from what you are telling us if the female did fail to molt then there was not much you could have done for it as it can sometimes just happen especially if it was a larger female as older shrimp have a harder time adjusting to new water parameters. Regarding the change in behavior there are a lot of variables in play right now, which may be affecting the shrimp. 1. What was the original temperature and how many degrees did you drop the temperature by and how much time did it take for you to drop the temperature.
  11. Can you give us your water parameters and depending on the size of the driftwood, it may drop the pH; its just something to keep in mind while utilizing it.
  12. I have to thank you for writing this long post post, but I honestly really don't know how to respond to this post cause most of whats being talked about here is speculation and to me Bacter Ae is full of speculations in regards to what it actually does. I used it before for a very small amount of time and stepped away from its use for the following reasons. 1. The amount to dose is currently up in the air, so far experience has taught us to ignore the manufacturers instructions (which is already a bad sign) and place a dose that is as small as possible into the tank which already a
  13. Aside from overfeeding I don't really see a problem, shrimp can kinda live off of anything, just make sure to provide a variety of foods and a source of ingestible calcium.
  14. Hey I'm sorry to hear that your tanks got flea bombed and you lost everything that really sucks, as for my advice from what I'm reading its better to follow what wyazz said and tear down the tanks, give them a good wash and toss out the substrate. I'm not sure if the active ingredient in flea bombs can bind to the sponge or be absorbed by the plants, but from what I am reading if pyrethins were the active pesticide within the flea bomb it can linger within the substrate for a very long time as it will not break down easily in water without sunlight. Once you finished resetting everything you c
  15. I thought it was just the weather that was why the site was quiet, a lot of people stop shrimping and fish keeping over the summer. Its the worst time of the year for stores I heard.
  16. Yeah I agree with wyzazz a floodlight would definitely work well for most plants if its lighting over a small area. There are several videos on youtube comparing flood lights to regular lights, Joey from the king of DIY made one a while back comparing it to the kessil and I also think Cory from aquarium coop did a video with just the floodlight as well.
  17. I don't think anyone is selling cherax species here on the forum, most people only sell the mexican dwarf and the clarkii species. If you want to try to purchase some you can try to get them from Shrimpfever as they had them in stock a few months ago when I went there in person; the owner Tommy ships them into the states quite frequently.
  18. If you really want to go about making sure it is parasite free, you can boil the wood for 10-20 minutes and then you can place it in quarantine for a week in a separate tank and just observe the wood to see if anything grows. Afterwards you can put it in your tank if you believe it is safe. You may lose a decent amount of tannins through this method, but it ensure the wood is sterilized.
  19. Sounds good, eventually you can start soaking some food in the water of the blood worms for a few minutes prior to feeding to give them the scent/ flavor of the bloodworms and the cory may try out the food as well; if it works eventually you can just stop soaking and feed the flakes normally. And a blood worm flat pack is pretty large, but some of us go through them pretty fast if you have a lot of tanks; in addition a lot of those blood worms is just ice/water weight.
  20. Well from my experience blood worms are generally very healthy for fish and barely any fish will reject them, so you can guarantee your fish is eating as long as they will probably go crazy over bloodworms. Another idea would be to place your cory in a separate tank, feed them flake food, or your other main food of choice until they get used to that as their main meal then re-add them to the main aquarium, you can also add other corys to your tank which will allow them to compete with each other for food making them more active, and if 1 cory eats the food it will cause the other corys to star
  21. Yeah ideally you would want to do that, and maybe add almond leaves and moss to your water storage area for a few days or weeks to lower the pH to your liking prior to the water change, but I don't have the space for that so I have to deal with the cards I got.
  22. I was regarding canister filters in those aspects where you can bag peat moss/ sphagnum moss or crushed coral to change the pH over time instead of just leaving them there within the tank, it can also be done with almond leaves for tannins as well if you do not want to deal with the debris from the leaves.
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