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Posts posted by aotf

  1. Hi all,

    After a move, unbeatable algae, and unstable shrimp populations, I called it quits 6-8mo ago and took apart my 4 small tanks.
    I have a lot of aquarium and shrimp-related gear (i.e 7gal, 9gal, 3gal, pumps, aquascaping tools, lots of shrimp food, water conditioners, lights, rocks, etc...).
    If you are in the area and looking for some gear to expand your operations, come on by and take my stuff!
    Apologies for not itemizing it all, it would take me an onerous amount of time to do so.

    Some caveats:
    - the shrimp food is expired. I don't really think it matters much but just pointing it out.
    - the unbeatable algae was likely spirogyra. I have beat my fair share of algae, scuds, and even ellobiopsidae in my shrimp colonies. I could not get rid of this for 2 years and then had to give up. My tanks have been drained and left outside in the sun for >6mo, but if you take equipment from me, know that you will need to very thoroughly sterilize everything. For this reason, I would prefer to give equipment to experienced shrimpers. Noobies also welcome but please realize that you take on some risk.

    I have two EHEIM Classic 250 filters that I'm selling for $50 each.

  2. 19 hours ago, Andrewjones said:

    So, My tap water is around 6.5 and with my RO unit and Salty Shrimp my ph rests around 6-6.2. Because of this I can not get much breeding for neocaridina ...


    Right, because Salty Shrimp GH is designed for caridina. If you aren't adding any carbonates in the water (what kH indicates), you're not going to change the pH. If you used Salty Shrimp GH/KH, your pH would bump up to 7-7.5 and your water would be neocaridina suitable.


    19 hours ago, Andrewjones said:

    Also, my tap has too much ammonia is kills the shrimp even with prime


    Sounds like you would benefit from a cycled reservoir tank with some plants in it to convert ammonia to nitrates. That would be a great thing to have in general since it avoids pH swings in the main tank as you add "fresh" tap water as a result of degassing, but in your case could fix the ammonia issue. Keep the reservoir tank topped off and use that for livestock tank water changes.


  3. Interesting! I've heard copper mentioned many times before but I've very rarely heard of it actually being an issue. I wouldn't have suggested testing for it, it's a good thing you did!


    If it's your plumbing, your best shot is either buying distilled water by the gallon and/or getting a RODI unit (I wonder how they handle copper). Worth getting a copper test kit for that scenario, they're not that expensive (especially compared to the RODI unit).


    Good luck!

  4. What kind of shrimp?




    It's possible your tap has other gross stuff in it that would kill sensitive shrimp. It also seems very hard (kH is pretty high).

    Also, 0-1ppm ammonia is a pretty big range (especially with shrimp). Isn't that four increments on the API test kit color scale? Most people consider anything measurable (with 0.25ppm being the lowest non-zero increment) to be too high. Did it hit 1ppm after they started dying? Maybe that was a result of their deaths, not the cause?

  5. On 7/30/2019 at 7:59 AM, Ron Kalman said:

    Hi any updates?

    Actually yes!

    Almost all of my previous F2s died off (I think a couple made it to adulthood) but they were very tangtai-looking so nothing too special there. Since then, I've had several batches and many of them are surviving. Most are juvies at this point. I've gotten some shrimplets I'm pretty excited about. Most (60-70%) are tangtai, a couple are some weird low-grade CBS-looking things, some YKK-looking shrimp with more white specks/striping, 5 BKKs (!) and one weird blue steel or king-kong like shrimp that I only see once every couple weeks so I have no idea if it's still alive.


    I have another 3-4 pregnant females so more shrimplets to come.


    In order:







    Blue steel thing??





  6. Scuds.


    Some people say they can attack and kill/eat baby shrimp. Most people agree that either way, they're super gross-looking.

    They are virtually impossible to get rid of once you have a solid infestation. I had some success after nuking the tank several time with carbonated water and H202 but it's really rough. They'll survive in the gravel/filters for a long time. Best of luck!

  7. A very lucky mutation or hidden genetics popping up. A blue/oil-spill pinto would get a lot of shrimpers very excited (and reaching for their wallets). Make more!


    Odd to see it happening later in its life, you sure it wasn't that color before and it snuck by you? Have you had them for multiple gens or is this the first gen in your tank?

  8. I'm no expert on this and I haven't done the specific cross you're mentioning but I'll take a quick stab until someone more knowledgeable corrects me: 


    The interesting part of that cross is that --despite both being called KK-- red and yellows have very different genetics. They're not just variations on the same base, YKKs are widely believed to have some TT mixed in. As far as what they'll produce... no real idea. I would guess a variety of pintos and TBs, maybe some interesting and colorful taitibee-like patterning that could be selected for over generations. Not an average of the two parents or a WT reversion (unlikely in caridina), but probably not exclusive RKK and YKK offspring.



    ...please follow-up if you try it out, that would be a super interesting cross.

  9.  @Shrimp Life nailed it, you have two big problems here (and a third that will bite you later):
    - tank not cycled. Shrimp will continue to die until it is cycled. Have you tried jumpstarting it with commercially available bacteria? Dr. Tim's comes to mind.
    - tap with buffering soil. Your soil will constantly be fighting to pull the pH down but your tap likely has some kH to it. The tap will eventually win (infinite supply vs finite soil) and your water will creep up to tap parameters.

    - gH and kH are not right for neos


    This setup will cause you a lot of headaches but since this is what you have, here's what I would do (besides tearing up the tank or converting it to caridina parameters):
    Transfer the shrimp to Primed tap (assuming your tap has parameters they can live in, which I don't think it does without supplements) for a couple weeks while you jumpstart the cycle. When ammonia and nitrites are consistently 0, add them back in. During that time, you saturate your tank with baking soda to burn out the substrate's buffering ability so that it stops fighting your tap.

    Your gH is too low and your kH is being pulled to 0 by the substrate so I don't know what your tap looks like. Sounds like it's too soft for these shrimp, you'll probably need to get some SaltyShrimp GH/KH+ and supplement your tap water or you'll get molt-related deaths.


    Good luck! I'd recommend some reading/research on gH, kH, pH, buffering, and cycling. Welcome to the hobby, it can be a rough ride ;)

  10. I've seen this in my low-grade bloody maries as well. It happened when I moved them from their preferred parameters into more of caridina parameters. Over time they eventually turned brown/black (and a lot of them died off). 


    Not having put in the effort to isolate and reproduce this, it just seems like a stress response. 


    It sounds like you have a good understanding of water parameters so I'm not sure what is triggering the response, wish I could be more helpful there. I would suggest swapping reef salts for Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ for lack of anything better. I'm skeptical of drift since the time period is too short, that wouldn't just pop up on a couple months.

  11. On 6/11/2019 at 5:44 AM, rhoagland said:


    I had a quick look last night and I might have 5 or so of them that are light blue with dark blue stripes like the picture below:


    My apologies for the poor quality on the second pic.  I didn't have much time.


    I would do $10 each plus shipping.


    Those look nice!


    My timing isn't great as I'm about to go off the grid for a week.


    I'm going to get my tank fully stabilized so I'm not in a huge rush. I was thinking of getting ~10 so I maybe by then you'll have more stripeys available :P

    That said, if you're trying to move them (say to prevent breeding with the royals), give Vorteil a shout.



  12. 9 hours ago, wyzazz said:


    Never heard of her!  😂🤣

    You've saturated the market!


    9 hours ago, rhoagland said:

    How many are you looking for?  I have a few striped juvies from my OERBT colony that I could make available.   They are currently in neocaridina parameters.


    Mine are actually from Danny (wyzazz)

    Very cool, thanks for getting back to me!
    How much are you pricing the stripey ones?
    Are they more like OEBT culls (blondes, light/no blue) or just non-royal OEBTs?

  13. Hi all, 


    I'm looking for some OEBT (preference for non-royal, I'm a sucker for the stripes). I haven't seen them around in a while, looks like they aren't as fashionable anymore.


    wyzazz has kindly put me on his list, are there other fellow shrimpers who still keep them?


    I know Blue Crown carries some nice ones, curious to see if I can source from hobbyists, though.



  14. Since no one on the forum has bitten yet...


    Have you checked our Ark's stock on Aquabid?

    While not on this forum, he's been in the shrimp game for many years and his cardinal shrimp will likely sell for a lot less than a more commercial seller's.


    Good luck! Heard they require some very finicky parameters.

  15. Tiger shrimp and CRS/CBS are not the same and are generally kept in different parameters.
    Tigers would most likely be in neo parameters depending on where you get them, while CRS/CBS would be caridina parameters.

    Take a look at this:https://www.discobee.com/blogs/news/17030569-dwarf-shrimp-water-parameters


    I also recommend you do some reading on water parameters and buffering since it sounds like that's new to you and you want to have a handle on that before buying any livestock.
    Specifically, look into gH, kH, and pH. I don't have any links handy but it's covered plenty of places (including on this forum) with a bit of googling.

    To answer your direct question:
    - for neo parameters https://flipaquatics.com/products/shrimp-mineral-gh-kh?variant=43063556100

    - for caridina parameters https://flipaquatics.com/products/bee-shrimp-mineral-gh?variant=43063611268


    You actually do want to mess with water chemistry, like by adding specific minerals to promote shell growth or to keep the water in specific pH ranges, for example.

  16. On 2/7/2019 at 8:19 AM, Shrimporama said:

    Any updates?


    Nothing of note, I've been snapping some pictures here and there but the (few) shrimplets that survived to this point look very much like their tangtai parents so they're not particularly interesting. The really cool looking ones seem to have died off. Not sure why, my water seems like it's within range.

    I wonder if the ones that look more tibee-like also inherited the blue-bolt sensitivity/hatred of my tank, while the TT-phenotyped shrimplets got more of the TT hardiness, explaining why those are the ones to survive.

    Either way, the parents are still breeding so I'm keeping my eye out for cool-looking babies. It's slow-going with the survival rate being so low in my tank :(


    Got it.


    What confused me (and still does) is why you assume that all of the 20% of heat waste generated by the LEDs get transferred to the water. As you say, it's an engineering problem and I won't pretend to be able to solve it, but I would imagine that the amount of heat transferred from the LEDs to a water column 4-12" below (depending on the setup) through convection is relatively low, not 100% of the heat generated on the light fixture (air is a bad conductor, there's a lot of air in the room, and hot air tends to rise anyway so the convective transfer seems limited). Not saying it's negligible, just that it would be a fraction of the 20% you use in the calculated rate of temp increase.

    Radiation, on the other hand, seems like it could account for a lot. Soils absorb roughly 80% of the light that hits them, so if you had an amazonia bottomed tank with no plants, you'd be looking at a decent amount of heat generated by the LEDs.


    (37.533(0.8*0.8))/(0.999*62.31*2.94)= 0.13 F/hr

    dT = 1.05 F in 8 hours.

    ...so not as much as the pump, but still something! One easy way to get around it is to lower the light output (dimmer), which would also decrease the waste heat/convective transfer or go with a higher albedo bottom in the tank.


    Fun stuff!

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