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Everything posted by JSak

  1. Yea when I get new shrimp I'm checking them frequently and counting them everyday. Once I see a berried female I relax a little, but once I see babies then that's when I stop worrying as much. It's definitely an awesome feeling and an accomplishment to finally have babies. There's definitely more hiding I'm sure. Now you can just sit back and watch the babies grow!
  2. That's awesome! If babies are born and raised in your water parameters, I believe they become stronger than the parents so once I see babies growing up to at least smaller juvenile size (1/4 inch or so) then I feel pretty confident about the colony. Hope they do well for you and that you have many more babies in the future!
  3. @Shrimpygirl Congrats! When I notice eggs hatching and the babies surviving then I start to worry less about if my shrimp are doing okay in the tank or not. Problem with shrimp I've noticed is that sometimes they won't give you many signs that somethings going on unless you're really paying attention to them and know what to look for. But like roagland said fluval stratum is a pretty weak buffering substrate so I'd assume over time the kh in the water change water will deplete the buffering activity of the soil. Neos tend to like at least a little kh so I'd personally recommend gh/kh+. Yea for
  4. OEBTs can be tricky because now they're being bred and raised in both neo and caridina parameters, so I think the best would be to check with the person you bought them from and get your parameters as close as you can to theirs. I'd say consistency matters more than perfect water parameters as long as the parameters are at least close or within the range of ideal. That being said, OEBTs originally were raised and bred in neo parameters and I keep RCS and OERBTs together in neo parameters (ph 7.6-7.8, gh 10, kh 4). Fluval statums a buffering substrate meaning that it will help to soften the wat
  5. I'd also agree with roagland. If your shrimps are doing well and have been for that long, and especially if they're able to successfully breed and have babies that're able to survive, then I would keep things the same. From personal experience, I know it's tempting to want to change everything in your tank to match what more experienced hobbyists do and tell you to do, but lots of change in a short amount of time can be more harmful. Neos have become very hardy especially if they're homebred in the US. I got ROASTED for sharing my caridina water parameters on another group because they weren't
  6. Hi! In regards to your first question I've read and heard mixed experiences on keeping bettas with shrimp, so the best advice I can give on that is that it seems to depend highly on the personality of the individual betta and the layout of the aquarium. For example, my dad has a heavily planted 15 or so gallon tank in his office that has a betta, some tetras, white clouds, and shrimp. The tank's been running for at least 5 years now and the shrimp are thriving and reproducing. The betta may be picking off a few babies but I've never seen him attack or hunt the shrimp and there's lots of plants
  7. Hi skoomz! One thing I think of with tap water is the possibility of chlorine/chloramine in the water because most test kits don't test for those. Chlorine and chloramine are highly toxic to shrimp and can kill them pretty quickly. Also, your local water treatment plant may be adding chemicals into the water that may be affecting your shrimp as well. The only reason I think this when I hear tap water is because I used tap water when I first started the hobby, but once I switched to remineralized RO water I had much more success. Your gh and kh does seem high, but I've heard that t
  8. I keep all of mine at room temp aside from my cardinal sulawesis that require more specific parameters. I try to keep my hobby as simple as possible for myself and for the shrimp as well. I've heard horror stories of heaters malfunctioning which could either cause it to shut off and drop the temp or constantly remain on and boil the shrimp. Even if it's not that likely, I didn't think it was worth the risk considering the shrimp would do just fine in room temp. I have about 15 or so tanks of neos, caridina and paracaridina and they all are doing very well and breeding for me just at room temp
  9. I haven't tried any other remineralizing salt, but I've been using Salty Shrimp GH+ for my Caridina and GH/KH+ for my neos in the 5+ years I've been in this hobby with lots of success. As uuaaayyy stated, there are different sizes of the remineralizer you can buy. I bought the 450g one for about $20 on Amazon and I still have about 1/3 of it left after buying it about 5 months ago. How often you do water changes and how much water you take out also dictates how quickly you go through it. For me, I do water changes once a month taking out about 10% each time. I use 5 gallon buckets of RO water
  10. Hey @Danky808! I have to ask but are you from Hawaii? Recognize the 808 🤙 Welcome to the hobby! Most of us here are glad to provide any information based on our knowledge and/or experience, so feel free to ask anytime! I used to be into fish for a while, but once I discovered shrimp and especially after I started to figure out how to keep and breed them, I couldn't go back to fish. They're so unique, relatively unknown in the aquarium hobby (although it seems like they're finally starting to get the recognition I think they deserve), and require very little maintenance and tank spa
  11. I'm not sure if the backline is specifically a grade standard, but personally I like the color distinction with the backline. I've seen wild shrimp in streams that were dark brown/blueish with a pretty prominent backline so it might have some genetic roots to the ancestral wild-type neos. I'm sure there are breeders/sellers online that have neos without the backline or you may be able to ask on forums like this for breeders who specifically have neos without the backline that breed relatively true. I don't buy shrimp from pet stores anymore, but if most of them have it I'd have to guess that t
  12. I agree with @uuaaayyy about going with remineralized RO water over tap water for caridina shrimp, especially pintos and Taiwan bees, so that you can control the water parameters can keep them consistent. I didn’t see you mention using tap water though so maybe I missed it. In terms of your plan, I think it’s a good idea! Neos seem to be very hardy and adaptable, especially if you’ve been raising them up for a while, so if you can slowly acclimate them they should have a better chance to thrive. Neos and caridina don’t interbreed as far as I know so you don’t have to worry about t
  13. Yup looks like biofilm to me! Just the natural process of adding a new piece of driftwood to your tank. It happens everytime I add them to my tanks as well. It should go away over time 👍
  14. I’m not sure if I understand, but I don’t do anything special to my water when I’m cycling it vs. when I have shrimp in the tank. I use RO/DI water remineralizer with either Salty Shrimp GH+ or GH/KH+ to achieve the water parameters for the specific type of shrimp I’m planning to put in (cardinal vs neocaridina) and let it cycle with that water. This way the bacteria and microorganisms that grow in my tank develop in the parameters for the shrimp I’m planning to put in the tank. I try to keep things in my tank as consistent and stable as possible, even during the cycling process.
  15. That’s actually biofilm, which are microorganisms that typically grow on surfaces that’re rich in nutrients. Whenever I add a new piece of driftwood I get that biofilm as well. From my understanding it’s a good thing for a tank and can help promote the normal cycling process by promoting growth of microorganisms and beneficial bacteria. It should go away in a couple weeks but if you have shrimp they’ll most likely devour it.
  16. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. It's been a busy couple of weeks with moving and exams 😓 but yes, that's how the test works. It's called a titration reaction. I used to remember exactly how the reaction worked, but that was back in undergrad when I was taking my chem classes so I won't try to explain it 😂 but just to be sure, did you cap and invert the tubes each time you added a drop of the GH or KH solution, rather than adding a few drops then mixing it together? GH is generally higher than KH, but one instance when KH can be higher than GH is if sodium bicarbonate is
  17. First picture looks like a male and the last 2 pictures look like females. The yellow thing on the back of the last 2 shrimp is called a saddle and is a classic characteristic of female shrimps. The first shrimp lacks the saddle and also has a straighter abdomen/stomach area compared to the 2 shrimp in the last picture, which is more suggestive of a male.
  18. It looks like a wild-type neocaridina to me. Same species as the red cherries you have. If it breeds with your cherries you may get more babies that look like that one rather than looking like the cherries you have.
  19. Hi @bruce7267ad! Both cherries and blue velvets are neocaridina shrimp, so they have the same parameter requirements. Neocaridina are generally pretty hardy and tolerant of a wide range of water parameters, but they tend to like harder/more alkaline water. I keep my neocaridina in water with GH about 10 and KH about 3-4. I don't use a heater or anything like that in their tanks so my water temperature fluctuates based on room temp, but I'd guess it's probably between 68-75 depending on the weather and time of year. The only thing I measure is GH and KH as I've found those are the most importan
  20. Hi @NSinvert! Just to clarify, when you say you're changing your water once a week with RO water, are you changing the water with pure RO water or are you remineralizing first before changing? If so, how long have you had the shrimp? Just like with people and other pets like dogs and cats, as animals age they tend to show visible signs of these changes. If you were to look at an older dog vs. a young adult dog the younger dog, if healthy, would have a nicer hair coat, much more vibrant coat colors, and healthier looking skin, compared to an older dog who may have more dull coat col
  21. @FaelynK yup! Prime has sodium thiosulfate in it which deactivates both chlorines and chloramines so I'd definitely suggest using that if possible. Aeration only gets rid of chlorine but not chloramine so that's a good point that you brought up. Yea the neos these days, especially cherries, are way more durable and adaptable than they were several years ago with the recent popularity and rise of the shrimp hobby and with cherries being the most available and well-known of the dwarf shrimps. If you're able to, I suggest finding a local or USA breeder as they're generally more health
  22. @FaelynK Welcome to this wonderfully addicting hobby! In my personal experience, I don't think I've measured the pH of the water in my shrimp tanks since I first started in the hobby about 5 years or so ago. For me, the most important parameters I measure are GH and KH, but I see that you're waiting for them to come in the mail so once those come in you can test your water. The only concern I have with tap water is chlorine, which is shrimps don't tolerate very well. To avoid any possible issues with chlorine you can either buy a dechlorinator (I use Prime) or you can let your water sit and ae
  23. Do you have any test kits to measure GH and KH (water hardness)? Aside from Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrite, the only other parameters I measure with my shrimp is GH and KH because I've found those parameters to be most important with keeping shrimp. I don't think I've ever measured pH in my shrimp tanks aside from my Cardinal Sulawesi shrimps, but that's because they're more sensitive and require pretty precise parameters compared to most other shrimps.
  24. Interested in learning about BOA genetics as well. It sounds like there's not a lot of information, or the information that's going around seems to contradict each other. BOAs are one of my favorite looking shrimps so I'd love to learn about how to best handle selective breeding to get a solid colony going.
  25. I'd say it's possible but I've never seen anything like that, so it most likely will take a lot of time and dedication to be able to do that. I've heard of people selectively breeding certain colorations/patterns in shrimp that took them years to get a stable line that produces babies that have the desired coloration/patterns as the adults. You'll most likely end up with a lot of wild looking neos, which you'll probably have to cull out, before you might get one shrimp with a tiny amount of blue between the orange coloration. If you're able to do that I think a lot of people would be pretty ex
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