qa2744

So Hygger didn't have any 100W + heaters (that I could find). So I ended up ordering a Orlushy Submersible Aquarium heater - 150 W. Interestingly, the Orlushy manufacture acknowledges that the heater dial settings may not match the final water temperature, so they provide a digital thermometer with the unit so that you can calibrate the desired temperature before using the unit. I'm not sure if this is good or bad, but it at least was honest. I've now got the heater dial to give the temperature I want (it was about 2 degrees lower in the water than what the dial wa

the saga continues......................... I am going to return the Fluval M100 heaters because they are not heating the tank enough. I am trying for 84 degrees. The heaters are at the highest setting (86) but the tank is only getting to 81. I've re-reviewed the Amazon comments, and I can find a recent comment that shares the same experience. I'm going to try a Hygger heater next.

How's this for confusing? The one on the left is brand new, the others vary from 1 year old to 4 months old. I'm going to go buy a glass floating thermometer today to see if any of these are right FWIW - the heater is set at 85 degrees and has been running for two days. So either the heater isn't doing the job or all these digital devices aren't that good (or maybe both)

never tried, as I didn't want to replace a bad unit with another unreliable unit. I bought some oversized Fluval M100 heaters (compared to the tank size of 20 gallons). Hopefully these hold up better Thanks,

I've searched the forum and not found a recent thread on this, so I am starting a new one. I have a 20 gallon Sulawesi tank that needs very stable, and relatively high (82 F), temperature. I need a reliable heater, especially with the cold Chicago winter coming up. I had bought a Cobalt, which I thought was a top line heater, only to have it fail after 4 months (I should have taken the reviews more seriously). Unfortunately most of the review I read inevitable have comments from users who have their heater fail (Cobalt, Hygger, Aqueon, etc) so it's hard to know which

Hi Shrimpernoodle - All are variation of red with maybe a few mixed variety. I can give you 30 - 40 for free (they are culls that I've been reluctant to discard). If you are in Chicago area, you can pick them up with no shipping charges. Paul

I have some RCS available for a good home. Northwest suburbs of Chicago.

I'm looking for some also. Prefer Chicagoland area. Thanks,

thanks, i wish my shrimp were as hardy! I will keep squishing away. BTW I also dropped in three assassin snails, so lets see if that works

Here's what I want, has anyone ever seen this? I want a dual outlet timer that will allow me to set alternating intervals between the two outlets. Here's the use case I have two powerheads in my tank, I want to turn them on /off on a short time cycle (5 -10 min each) to create an alternating current in my tank. Right now they are both on at the same time, which creates dead spots within the tank. Anyone solved this problem already? I couldn't find an existing product, but this would seem easy to make with today's programmable timer technology.

I exploded in population covering the tank glass. I am not a flatworm, but maybe some other type of planeria? i am not a detritus worm. i can be knocked off the glass by running the algae scraper over me, but then i float to the bottom. Liquid Fenbendazole greatly decreased the population by 90 % over three days of treatment but did not kill them all. i can be smushed like a pond snail but am much much smaller. (about the size of a pencil tip) Any ideas what this is? and how to treat it? i could dose again?