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About ricksza

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  • Real Name
    Rick Szafranski
  • Gender
  • Location
    Bensalem, PA
  • Inverts You Keep
    RCS & Blue Dream
  1. Close to end of summer here, should I collect my leaves while they're still green on the tree or should I wait until they turn brown? In the past I collected brown leaves while they were still on the tree, boiled them and then dried for the rest of the year. I've recently read that the green leaves have more nutrition. I have a safe Magnolia tree that I use one leaf per week in each tank.
  2. On Amazon today: API Freshwater Master Test Kits sold by PETCO for $9.99 with free shipping. Need to go to bottom of description to: New (20) from $9.99 https://smile.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=api+master+test+kit&qid=1573120403&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-4
  3. My lfs has RO water available, I haven't checked elsewhere. If I do 10% changes for my 2 - 20's and 1 - 10, that's only 5 gallon so I don't think it's worthwhile to have my own RO unit.
  4. The only parameter I ever noticed was a slight difference in TDS. Maybe caused by population size difference, difference in feeding? The water will equalize between the two sides, but there is no actual flow. There are independent air powered sponge filters on each side.
  5. I'm thinking a similar thought about the tap water. Nothing had changed in the tanks, because with the size, I didn't want to crowd it more and everything was going well the way it was. Since new 20-gallon tanks are in the works at this time anyway, I'm thinking of using my lfs's R.O. water to eliminate the possibility of my tap water causing something like this. The new tanks will be heavily planted, so hopefully the Nitrates will be better in control and water changes can be at a lower percentage.
  6. From day one, I've been using tap water with treatment. Since the second week, I've been doing 25% changes with a slow reentry because of high Nitrates. I dosed with Flourish in the beginning, stopped and then restarted in August to try to help my dying Salvinia Cucullata.
  7. I didn't notice anything unusual on the bodies. Under the plants, they were in various stages of decomposition.
  8. I took a look at my shrimp tank this afternoon, all my Blue Dream shrimp are dead or dying. This is a 10 gallon divided tank sharing water. No dead shrimp on the red side at all. Water parameters are: pH 7.6 ppm, HI pH 7.4 ppm, Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 10 ppm, GH 8 dKH, KH 3 dKH, TDS red side 204 – blue side 197, 76°. I checked the water before I did the 25% water change 3 days ago and the only difference is the TDS is 9 points lower now. I have live seed shrimp on both sides. Both sides are feed the same food at the same time. Both side received 2.5ml of Flourish each after the
  9. I really don't want to introduce snails in my tank, unless I get some nerites.
  10. I currently have a 10 gallon divided tank for my Sakura and Blue Dreams. I'm starting to get all the equipment to upgrade to larger individual tanks. My question is, I'm currently seeding new dual sponge filters in my divided tank, how long until they are considered ready? When I set up the new tanks with the seeded filters, do I add ammonia 4 ppm daily as if I were cycling until I move the shrimp over? How long can the bacteria stay alive without feeding? Should I move some fish from my community tank temporally to keep the bio load up? Any other tips, ideas?
  11. I made a divider for my 10 gallon tank using a 2" square 40ppi foam with glass above it. The foam allows water flow between the sides and the glass prevents escapes.
  12. I did a similar thing with a 10 gallon. Only difference is I put the glass on top of a foam pad. This allows water flow between the partitions but still keeps the shrimp separated.
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