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uuaaayyy

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uuaaayyy last won the day on May 20 2020

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About uuaaayyy

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    BB, BKK, RKK, pandas, half-sides, WGB. Neos: OR-HGFR-pumpkin-snowballs. Reef.

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  1. I have it in one of my tanks (with KH-less water), pH is 6.4, stable. Amazon reviews show even more acid experience of another user, but if it works in opposite way for you, why not. Let's hope that everything will be fine. Best of luck!
  2. They belong to different lines and color works in an opposite way, opaque red shell vs transparent shell and colored flesh. There is a change of getting wild color type babies, if dominant genes are there. If babies inherit opaque shell and red flesh, flesh will be not seen under opaque shell. If babies inherit transparent shell and clear body, there will be no red at all. Neocaridina seem to have a lot of polygenic traits, when one trait (red shell, for example, or red flesh color) relies on several genes, even more combinations with unknown consequences are possible.
  3. I am new to shrimp with backstripe, few months, but it is permanent in my shrimp, it could become paler or visible under certain angle of light, but it's always there. Related to molting is light stripe across the body, a beginning of molting. If found on the dead shrimp, it's called white ring of death.
  4. I answered you on ShrimpTank sub, here are not too many people, maybe someone else will come later. I started keeping shrimp with similar to neocaridina requirements (ghost shrimp) with pH lowering "shrimp" substrate, Fluval Stratum and tap water. Small tank, big weekly water changes. Each time shrimp were stressed a lot: became opaque, lethargic for a long time. Asked everywhere I could, no answer. It continued until I realized that pH and kH could be tested, every few hours after water changes. This gave an answer I was looking for. Siphoned out active substrate, left tank bare bottom (I don
  5. I have seen somewhere bucket, placed on something higher than your highest tank, with small diameter tubing, letting water go in the tank. Speed is set by you, from dripping to small stream. Another possible way: if adding water fast is not a problem, use small water pump (it have to have head rating for this height, see its specifications) with tubing and a plastic tube hook (as of Eheim canister filters, sold as replacement part). Hook could be hung on the tank, pump will do the work, you watch the process and stop it. Or manually, if there is clearance for maintenance above tank
  6. Short version: for neocaridina shrimp, replace this substrate with inert and dilute your tap water with RO water, or keep there crystal shrimp, but use remineralized with GH+ RO water and cooling in summer, to meet their requirements. Long version, let's try to untangle this: What kind of shrimp you plant to keep? If neocaridina (cherry shrimp and their other color forms), then setup should be different (inert), especially if tap water will be used. See their reqirements, and all parameters should be met, not just one. If acid water caridina (their requirements, in
  7. If they swimming in snake-lake movements, they should be detritus worms, feeding of extra food. Siphon them away, feed in the dish and remove uneaten food.
  8. The safest way would be setting new tank, with some hardscaping, plants and maybe filter media from main tank. This was advised to me when I asked. If use ADA Amazonia Light, it should be ready for immediate use. This is how I expand, when new housing for Taiwan bees is needed. Only acclimate if pH is different. Old tank could be stored as a spare container for emergencies, quarantine or a new kind of shrimp. With Volcanit, find reviews (on Amazon, for example) if it leaches ammonia or could be used immediately. An alternative is to add some new substrate in a mesh, bag
  9. See what caridina shrimp requirements match your water. TDS is only a part of equation, low stable pH could be achieved only in specialized setup. For inert neocaridina setup, tigers are better match. Many keep neos in crystal shrimp tanks (pH 6.5), but not the opposite, crystals in neos tank (pH >7). Taiwan bees, in my few years experience, prefer even lower pH, around 6.0. Groups of soft water caridina are described here.
  10. Neos could be a bunch of problems, comparing to soft water caridinas, even in remineralized RO, optimal water parameters and a good husbandry. If you are using RO water for cardinals and keep room cool in the summer, consider keeping Taiwan bees, they are easier and have more gratifying colors of babies, no wild type coloration as for neos. They are easy, just as Taiwan bees, only after you get colony going. But to make this happen... Depends on source of breeding stock, I guess. Link to their range of water requirements. To convert ppm to dH, divide ppm by 17.86, or us
  11. The same size of tanks, this never happened to me, and added alder cones as group of 5.
  12. Advise, please: what average hobbyist could do with them, when orange (or other) rilis babies are not like their parents, just color dots and stripes instead of patches?
  13. Guessing: both are different recessive traits, with likely polygenetic inheritance, more than one gene involved, should be odd combinations, depending on genetics of parent shrimps.
  14. Using piece of medium-fine sponge, snugly fit inside back compartment, is most common way for AIO tanks. Like 30-45 ppi Poret foam.
  15. While without shrimp, test KH and pH every few hours after water change. If fluctuations are too big, reconsider using pH lowering active substrate with tap water. I had to siphon Stratum out of my 2.3 gal tank because ghost shrimp were too stressed, and the problem was solved.
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