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Inverts You Keep

Found 15 results

  1. I have just tested my water and the ph is the highest it can be along with high ph is at 8.8 . What could i possibly do about this. Which soil actually works but is good for plants as well. I dont wish to totally destroy my water and have it down to 5.5 by accident . . Help! Thanks Ps. I tested because i want new shrimp and snails, would this rating be okay for event a sulawasi. ? How long does buffering substrate or water buffering liquid last?
  2. Hello. I am brand new to this forum so I apologize if I didn’t tag my post right or do something wrong. But I need some insights/help on my new shrimp tank. I am keeping raccoon tiger shrimps in a temporary 2 gallon cycled acrylic QT tank until my real shrimp tank finishes cycling. (Yes I bought the shrimp before I matured my tank 🙄 too late) i read that my raccoon tiger shrimp need a PH in range 6-6.5 but the LFS and their current QT tank are at ph 7.5-7.6 kh 3-4 Gh 7-8. The shrimp have been in the QT tank happily for a little over a month now and have been
  3. So I've been through 3 or so of the el cheapo yellow pH meters. What does everyone use and how long have you been using them? What are your recommendations? Thanks in advance for any advice!
  4. I am planing to acquire some crs and crb. I am wanting to raaise the ph of the tank to about 6.4 - 6.7 to get optimal conditions for the crystal shrimp. The tank is currently at a 6 possibly lower ph I can only see so much with an API test kit I have ada Amazonia soil which buffers the ph Down, how would I maintain a stable ph of 6.4 - 6.7 along with keeping a low ph. Also I have fire red cherrys stocked so any changes would have to be as steady and subtle as possible. I was also thinking of weaking the buffer but idk how to go about that with shrimp inside idk what to do at this point.
  5. I am planing to acquire some crs and crb. I am wanting to raise the ph of the tank to about 6.4 - 6.7 to get optimal conditions for the crystal shrimp. The tank is currently at a 6 possibly lower ph I can only see so much with an API test kit I have ada Amazonia soil which buffers the ph Down, how would I maintain a stable ph of 6.4 - 6.7 with a low kh. When I am fighting against the buffer along with almond leaves and alder comes which want to lower the ph even more Also I have fire red cherrys stocked so any changes would have to be as steady and subtle as possible. I was also thinking of
  6. Hi, I am new to the forum and to the hobby. I have just setup a new 10 gallon tank and all I have so far is: - ADA Amazonia Light Substrate - A little bit of Dwarf Baby Tears - CO2 with about one bubble every 2 seconds - My filter is an Aquaclear 30 with Plurigen and Seachem Matrix media. - Tap water treated with Seachem Prime - I have also dropped some API Quick Start in the first day It's only the second day of my fishless cycle, so I don't have too much history on it yet, but my PH is at 6.0 (Maybe lower since 6.0 is the minimum I can se
  7. Hello, I am wondering if anyone has good knowledge about the effects of kH and temperature to the pH? I noticed that sometimes the pH of my small 10G tank fluctuated, but the substrate, ADA Amazonia, was still fresh. To this day, it has still not been a year since putting the new substrate. For instance, as the season changed from winter-spring-early summer, the pH seemed to have increased to 6.3 ish (before it was very consistent at 6.0). Plus, during that season transition, I ended up losing blue bolts and some high grade CRS as the temperature unexpectedl
  8. Hi all! I'm having an issue with my Milwaulkee #SE220 probe that I'm using with a Milwaukee MC122 pH controller. I use this in my 40G breeder, but I also use the probe to check pH in my other tanks. The 40G is my high tech tank with high LED lights and CO2. I just use my well water in it which naturally has a GH of 5.5 and a KH of 7. Mixed community tank with my Bloody Marys.... They love it and thrive... A month or two ago, I set up a new 11 gallon True Aqua rimless for some *georgous* PRLs I got from TropicalAquarist. I used ADA Amazonia (regular) and
  9. Hello fellow shrimp keepers, I have started a shrimp tank with ADA amazonia soil, with thickness about 6.5 cm (about 2 inches) and it does not seem to be able to drop PH to proper levels. I was expecting PH of 6.5 - 7, maybe lower. My tap water is PH 7.6, GH 6, KH 4, TDS 150. The PH in the tank is still the same as my tap water. There is moss, lava stones and some driftwood in the tank, with 2 double sided sponge filters. Tank has dimensions width 50 cm x debt 28 cm x height 40 cm and I fill it to the 38 liters mark. The tank is still in fish-less cycle and I am about 1 week into
  10. I am worried because I changed media in my canister filter and my pH has increased from 5.4 to 6. I am monitoring continuously with Pinpoint. Not only that, but when I unplug my filter the readings immediately drop by .5. So when my filter has power my pH is .5 higher than without it. Should I be worried? Just when I think I've figured out science, it goes all wobbly on me. Any advice wood be greatly appreciated. ty
  11. Hi everyone, I've got a planted tank with Brightwell sub, CO2 and Blue Bolts. My pH cycles from 6.08 in the morning to 5.78 in the evening. Is this unhealthy? Should I aim for tightening this range? I turn off CO2 at night about an hour before my light turns off and it comes on about the same time as my lights come on. Also, is having a KH of 4-5 necessarily bad for Caradina? I have really clean tap water as I live in the foothills. So far my few tester shrimp seem to be fine, although i see markedly more activity from them in the evening as the pH climb
  12. I just got some Brightwell, attracted by its "no ammonia spike" reputation. It only seems to buffer down to a pitiful 6.4 pH, however. I use RO water. I want a healthy bee tank and presumed a 5.3-5.5 was optimal. Am I going to be forced to use something that I'll have to cycle for months to then hope for a buffering time window of 9 months, or am I looking at this all wrong? Thx,
  13. Hello all, I am new to the forum and to keeping shrimp and have some water chemistry questions. I recently purchased ten neocaridinas (five red sakura, two red unknown, one sky blue, one dark blue, and one yellow) and am now left with only four reds and the sky blue. The shrimp remaining are swimming around, feeding, and displaying nice coloration. I would like to purchase more but I don't want them to meet the same fate as the ones that did not make it! Any help on the matter is appreciated. My tank set-up: 2.6 gallon, cycled Fluorite substrate Planted (
  14. So I am trying Mosura PH Down because I'm trying to get the correct parameters for OEBT. I got GH 7 and kh 4 with a PH of 7.3. TDS is about 135. I believe this is good. I am wondering if Mosura PH Down will keep the parameters stable? It's amazingly powerful stuff I have been running the tank for about 3 weeks with cycled media but I didn't have everything I need to get the water chemistry right until a couple of days ago. I'm new to shrimp and trying to get it right. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  15. Every day my PH swings from 7.3 to 6.7 due to CO2 injection. 8.15am - lights/CO2 ON. Air pump OFF (stops night aeration). PH is 7.2 or 7.3 at this time. 9.15 - 7.0 11.30 - 6.9 12.30 - 6.8 2.00pm - 6.7 2.15pm - lights/CO2 OFF - 6.7 3.30pm - 6.9 3.45pm - lights/CO2 ON 4.30pm - 6.8 5.30pm - 6.8 7.30pm - 6.7 7.45pm - lights/CO2 OFF -> Night aeration on. This blows bubbles into my tank from an airpump. 8.30pm - 6.8 Its a 3 footer community tank, moderate planted. My setup is 11 months old, ADA soil is about 3 inches thick covering 70% of the area. I thought
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