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Found 20 results

  1. I'm currently out of pure RO water. Can I top off my caridina tank with store bought distilled water?
  2. I am comparing ADA New Amazonia soil with Fluval Stratum in very similar 20G long tank setups. I intended to compare Amazonia with Controsoil, but Controsoil was not available when I planned the comparison. I will add plants and rocks and turn the light on after ammonia levels become undetectable. One interesting initial observation is that nitrate levels were very high in Fluval Stratum tank, but ammonia levels were low, and high ammonia levels in Amazonia tank (as expected) but low Nitrate levels. Day 1 (July, 21, 2015) 1. Install Hamburg Mattenfilter (black 45 PPI foam from swisstropicals) in each tank 2. Use 500 g Fluval Biomax bio rings behind filter in nets. 3. Add 75 Watt submersible heater (Aquatop) set to 26C/80F to promote bacterial growth. 4. Add substrates 8kg/17.6 lbs of Fluval Stratum in right tank and a comparable volume of ADA New Amazonia in the left tank. 5. Slowly ad water (50% RO, 50% tap) containing Aquasafe Plus (Tetra) water conditioner behind filter section. Start 20G Whisper Aqua Pump (Tetra). 6. Take pictures 10 minutes after addition of water to the right tank. The Amazonia tank was filled before but was more cloudy. Day 4 (July, 25, 2015) Measure water parameters: pH TDS Nitrate Nitrite Ammonia Amazonia 6.46 160 2 0.4 4 Stratum 6.75 180 30 0.1 0.25 Add water from well-washed air filter foam from established tank and small amount of substrate (Amazonia) from established tank to jump-start microorganism communities. Day 7 (July, 27, 2015) Measure water parameters: TDS Nitrate Ammonia Amazonia 190 4 4 Stratum 200 40 0.2 Higher TDS is due to evaporation. - 90% water change in both tanks with remineralized (Salty Shrimp Mineral GH+) RO water Day 10 (July, 30, 2015) Measure water parameters: pH TDS Nitrate Nitrite Ammonia Amazonia 6.2 230 2 0.25 2 Stratum 6.35 180 5 0 0 - 90% water change in both Amazonia tank with remineralized (Salty Shrimp Mineral GH+) RO water - Replaced 20G Whisper Aqua Pump (Tetra) with ActiveAqua Airpunp (AAPA7.8L/3 watt). Water flow is much increased now.
  3. Hello. I am brand new to this forum so I apologize if I didn’t tag my post right or do something wrong. But I need some insights/help on my new shrimp tank. I am keeping raccoon tiger shrimps in a temporary 2 gallon cycled acrylic QT tank until my real shrimp tank finishes cycling. (Yes I bought the shrimp before I matured my tank 🙄 too late) i read that my raccoon tiger shrimp need a PH in range 6-6.5 but the LFS and their current QT tank are at ph 7.5-7.6 kh 3-4 Gh 7-8. The shrimp have been in the QT tank happily for a little over a month now and have been full grown but no berries or babies yet I decided after contacting other successful raccoon shrimp breeders and reading online that it would be best if I tried to lower the Ph down Around 6.2-6.5. I have pre cycled Ada Amazonia aquasoil that no longer leaches ammonia and I swapped the substrate out of the cycling tiger shrimp tank (with no shrimp in it yet) and switching from “salty shrimp Gh/kh +” remineralizer to “bee shrimp Gh+” and it’s now at ph 6.0-6.2 kh 0-1 Gh 6, which is great but the issue has been lowering the Ph in the separate raccoon tigers QT tank so I can acclimate the shrimp to the new parameters slowly over a few weeks. I started doing 10-25% water changes with the new “bee shrimp Gh+” remineralizer (at TDS 150—QT tank is currently at TDS 200) every couple of days on a SLOW drip line (takes up to 3-5 hours to refill the QT tank so the switch is easier on the shrimp) and adding teaspoons of cycled aquasoil Amazonia and some peat moss balls to the QT tank so when the KH drops the ph will be buffered. I have done three or four of these drip water changes to the new water parameters(kh 0-1 gh 6) and keep checking the ph, Gh and kh of the QT tank twice a day and they aren’t lowering down at all. It seems very weird to me. Before the switch the parameters were ph 7.5-7.6, kh 3-4, gh 8-9. I thought for sure it would be lowered down to atleast kh 2 and Gh 6-7 (halfway between the old water and the new water parameters) atleast but no changes have happened. Here is some info about the QT tank that I am trying to lowering the ph in: 2 gallon acrylic QT tank airstone and sponge Mignon 60 hanging filter Small mossy lava rock cholla wood Lots of floating plants and hornwort java ferns soiderwood pieces cattappa, guava and oak leaves Shrimp mineral balls high quality foods from Han aquatics, Dennerle, betaglucan, Bacter AE, nettle etc. very matured environment With visible micro organisms and happy shrimp. No deaths. Tank temp between 70-73 cooled by fans several small RO water top offs every day I will continue doing water changes until I see any changes but it seems odd that after changing 50-60% change by now and see nothing different when I use my test kits. (new, non expired kits and shake the bottles violently before use) any advice or ideas for me out there? I am trying to avoid any sudden rapid changes in their tank since the raccoon tigers cost me around $130 and don’t want any deaths although they do seem pretty hardy so far. The shrimps breeder is local and I found out they do use buffered substrate and low ph so the switch should be good for them.
  4. Hello. I am new to this forum and have been setting up my first ever tiger shrimp tank. The tank had been going through some incessantly BAD thick milky cloudy water issues for almost 2 months. I have two large pieces of one-hour boiled spiderwood that I’ve covered in mosses and bucephalandra that are coated in the normal amount of spiderwood fungus. I am thinking the thick cloudy water issue is related to this too. I have to rinse the filter out a LOT, and do lots of water changes or tubing gets clogged and water gets super milky thick to a point where I cannot see the plants at all. A lot of people on the internet say for normal bacteria blooms to not do large water changes and just be patient but my tank would have crashed by now if I haven’t done tons of full tank water changes and filter cleanings. I have done partial water changes for a few weeks previously just to see if it’ll work itself out but it never does. Its the worst cloudy water battle I’ve ever had in a new tank. I have another shrimp tank I setup around the same time right next it but with lava rock instead of spiderwood and it’s been crystal clear with growing plants since day 1. It hasn’t caused me any stress or drama yet. The spiderwood tank has no detectable bad water parameters, ph 6.4, gh 7, kh 0-1 Ada Amazonia powder type, Caribbean sand (all pre rinsed and pre cycled). Fully cycled eheim canister filter, no co2 or added ferts. Has anybody else used spiderwood and experienced this milky water problem?
  5. Hello all, I am new to the forum and to keeping shrimp and have some water chemistry questions. I recently purchased ten neocaridinas (five red sakura, two red unknown, one sky blue, one dark blue, and one yellow) and am now left with only four reds and the sky blue. The shrimp remaining are swimming around, feeding, and displaying nice coloration. I would like to purchase more but I don't want them to meet the same fate as the ones that did not make it! Any help on the matter is appreciated. My tank set-up: 2.6 gallon, cycled Fluorite substrate Planted (marimo moss balls, hornwort, crypt, myrio, chinese ivy) One large piece of dritwood Four apple snails No fish My water parameters: Nitrates: 10 Nitrites: 0 GH: 75 (soft) Chlorine: 0 KH: 300+ (super high) pH: 8.4- 8.8 I have well water that runs through a water softener, and thus seems to produce very soft yet very alkaline water. Does low GH but high KH/pH affect shrimp? Is there anything I can or should do to raise GH and lower KH/pH? Will these changes encourage the shrimp to thrive and breed (I know my snails would appreciate an oomph in the GH!)? Is there anything else I might be doing wrong? Thanks for all the help!
  6. So I am trying Mosura PH Down because I'm trying to get the correct parameters for OEBT. I got GH 7 and kh 4 with a PH of 7.3. TDS is about 135. I believe this is good. I am wondering if Mosura PH Down will keep the parameters stable? It's amazingly powerful stuff I have been running the tank for about 3 weeks with cycled media but I didn't have everything I need to get the water chemistry right until a couple of days ago. I'm new to shrimp and trying to get it right. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  7. Hi, So I'm starting a fluval Spec 3 for neo or OEBT. Haven't completely decided. Some of my plants came in today so I'm setting it up tonight. I added a little layer of of Benibach mineral powder, then about cm of Tropica Plant Substrate (which is not supposed to alter ph, merely a clay substance that absorbs nutrients and can be used under gravel/sand) and then I added 2 to 3 cm of National Geographic black sand (also not supposed to alter PH). I used RO water and RO/DI. Well my PH is showing at over 9!!! I'm not happy. Even my plants won't survive in that and with shipping it's not cheap! I was going to plant it then add seeded media in the next couple days and run it for a couple weeks to a month before adding shrimp. Will my PH go down or should I just start over again?? Thanks
  8. So in another thread I was having issues with National Geographic black sand and I am going to scrap it in my fluval spec 3 that I am setting up. I can either order and get in the city when I go next weekend a limited choice of substrates. I probably want OEBT but I want to have a choice to go with neos too. I have ADA on hand but I know that won't work. I need some help with which of the following would work best: Tropica Aquarium Soil/Powder (which supposedly lowers PH & KH but I have no Idea how much???) Does anyone know? Fuval Stratum Flourite black sand and I think Flora Max I don't want to use gravel and I would prefer dark to black. I'm really curious about Tropica but cannot find out what ph it buffers to. Thank you
  9. Hi! Nice to be part of this forum. I am starting my first shrimp only tank. Its a small tank and I know bigger is always better but this is being done at my place of work. I have never used aqua soil before. I set it up on Feb 3rd and used some seeded media from my betta tank, which I trust. I read that aqua soil would spike the ammonia levels but wow! They rose to way over 4. I did water changes with RO water that I buy from a local store. I even went in on the weekend once to do a WC. Unfortunately when I tested TDS on the RO I got a reading of about 25. I live in small town British Columbia Canada and I am very limited with what I can buy here. My tap water is like liquid rock! Anyway I have been practicing using Salty GH to bring the RO water to a TDS of about 120-130 when I water change. I checked the GH/KH once and it was 6/1. My plants came in this past Friday, big water change after planting. My fingers are crossed that my mini eleocharis makes it. I think the moss, star grass and s. repens should be okay, The light isn't that strong so...maybe??? Going low tech so I wanted to plant heavy. I tested my ammonia today (monday) got 2ppm and 0 nitrite so I left it. Sorry after all that I will get to my questions: I am wondering if because the the ammonia spiked so high and with some crazy ph swings, if my seeded media got blown? Is it recommended to run the tank for at least 6-8 weeks anyway because of possible leaching from the soil? Is my RO water going to be okay as long as I check each batch I get and then add Salty GH accordingly? Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you
  10. I seeded a HOB filter with biomedia that came from a pH 7.4, GH 10, kH 7, TDS 250 tank. I want to use it in a new CRS tank that will probably end up having a pH in low 6's, GH 4, kH 2 and I don't know what the TDS will be but something below 150 I think. Will my bacteria survive the move? Or did I do this all for nothing? I don't have the CRS yet and won't be here for another 3 weeks.
  11. Okay, so I have a water chemistry question. Why the low kh requirement for TB? I'm told that puts the tank at risk for ph swings. It seems all of you are educated in these requirements so could someone please help me out (using small words
  12. My nitrate has been at the 40 - 80 level . Water changes are not efficient as tap water is at 40 and too much water changes kills shrimps . What should I do to reduce nitrate? Or I just ignore it?
  13. Has anyone used this? Does it work? I was hesitant to use this with my substrate (Controsoil) as it said to not use additives, however Humic is supposed to maintain a GH of 3-4 which would work with Controsoil, not against it. Does it help plant growth?
  14. Hey shrimpsters, I wanted to raise a topic with whoever may be interested to explain something regarding minerals in the water for freshwater shrimps. i hear a lot of different and sometimes conflicting information about freshwater dwarf shrimp requirements since ive tried to learn about them. I am trying to understand more about how/what shrimp need to absorb from their water - it is an established fact that calcium and magnesium is necessarily obtained from the water -common knowledge says Ca:Mg should be at a ratio of 3:1. however .. i've found conflicting reports about what other minerals/trace elements are necessary in the water for shrimp or whether they are not necessary? some claim that as long as the trace elements are available in the shrimp diet then they are just as healthy and it makes no difference if the micronutrients/elements are in the water column or not but others state that it is important to have a full spectrum of minerals in the water for the shrimp to absorb. so I would just love if anyone here would care to offer their knowledge about this subject and explain the reasoning behind it - any external links to research papers/scholarly articles (obviously not a company/manufacturer website of course!) would be absolutely wonderful. i am really keen to understand this better and make my own informed decision instead of being a naive consumer. i am quite clueless when it comes to science as a whole but basically i want to understand the requirement of shrimps to absorb trace-minerals from the water or if their diet alone is adequate. i have tried to do some searching of my own about this but without a good background understanding of biology and chemistry it is impossible for me to piece together! in my mind it follows that it could be possible there is some unnecessary duplication with shrimp products that are available and therefore could some of these minerals be available in excess and even be detrimental to shrimp health? love n peace will
  15. I got my API master testing kit today, so I tried out all the tests. pH was undoubtedly really hard to tell and I can only guess that it's between 7-7.6, because I can't be certain. Ammonia seemed to be at 0 or 0.25ppm. Nitrite was 0 ppm as well. Nitrate was pretty high though. The results were bright red and it seemed like 40 ppm. I do partial water changes at least once a week though, and I actually just changed some water yesterday. I did my nitrate test again and go the same results, and I actually shook the hell out of it. I'll post the updated one later. I know people say the pH isn't accurate for API but it's all I have. Thanks! Here's a summary of the test results again: pH: 7-7.6 Ammonia: 0-0.25ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate: 40ppm Can you guys tell me if these results are okay? I know ammonia isn't but I'm not sure about pH. I have red and yellow shrimp (neos). Thanks
  16. Hey All, Friday I broke down (2) 20G tanks and set up a new 45G rimless tank. The substrate from the established tanks was UP Shrimp Sand and over a year old, so I started the 45 with a new bag of Controsoil and seeded it underneath with a couple very thin layers of the established Shrimp Sand and a sprinkled layer of BioPlus underneath on one off the layers. I was also running an Eheim 2215 on one of the old tanks and a Cascade 700 canister on the other and I moved both to the 45G so it has 2 established canister filters running. Added 1/4 old tank water and filled the rest with RO water re-mineralized with SS GH+ to a TDS of 135. I also moved the established driftwood and cholla wood to the new set up. Sunday: 0 ammonia 0 nitrites 0-5 nitrates TDS 136 PH 5.9 I added my 15 DBV's that I already had that I was holding in my Ebi and released them in the 45G on Sunday night. All seemed healthy and happy. I also had an order of 10 DBV's that arrived yesterday afternoon and drip acclimated for at least 2 hours and placed them in the tank last night. All good. Checked PH, TDS and PH still holding at 5.9. I added an air bubbler last night but the PH was still 5.9 this AM. I recalibrated my PH meter although it tested fine. I also noticed one of the smaller DBV's died late this AM. 2 water testings today showed 0 Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0-5 Nitrates 5-6 GH 0-1 KH 136 TDS What should I do? I plan to add CRS eventually but I feel this PH should be raised to a happy medium for both DBV's and CRS. Something more around 6.4 or so. Currently there are 2 berried DBV's, one of which looks like she's due any day as the eggs have turned darker. I really want these little guys to survive. Any advice? Crushed coral? If so, how much? Or should I just leave it alone? Thank you!
  17. I did tests on my 3.5 gal and the Nitrates were at 40! This is the last of the bottles of testing solutions from a Freshwater testing kit. I have a new bottle of testing fluid so I am going to double check it. So what to do now? I had added a nerite and some more shrimp about week ago and didn't realize that the tiny water changes (1\2 gallon at a time) were not enough anymore. All of the inhabitants seem fine, I even got my first berried pumpkin this last week. So I did the usual water change. I was afraid to do more since I have heard that the female could drop her eggs if there was a sudden change. I'm going to add a bag of purigen. Can I do water changes everyday? Or every other day? Should I try to add more plants?
  18. I am setting up a tank for red rillies and blues pearl and I have some question like: Can just use Carib Sea flora max Planted aquarium substrates for the entire tank? How do I make ro water What kind of filter should I use Where do I get the cocktail recipe from ( for shrimp) Can anyone tell who david say
  19. Am almost out of RO water and can't get to the LFS to get some more until Sunday. Would love my own unit but don't have the space to set one up Have a few bottles of spring water which is bottled at source in Ireland. It has a TDS of 370 which is a lot higher than the tank runs at (250-ish). The rest of the bottled water analysis is as follows all listed as mg/L : Calcium 55 Magnesium 8.7 Potassium 4.2 Sodium 75.9 Bicarb 286 Chloride 52.4 (presumably this is not the same as chlorine - not a chemist so not certain) Sulphate 23 Nitrate 0-1 The bottles are 330ml and my main shrimp tank is 19L and today's TDs is 259 GH 10 Would this water be ok to use as an emergency top-up if needed? Probably only would need 1 bottle per day if that.
  20. Hi all, As some of you may know, I have developed DIY RO replenishing salts for shrimps and have been sharing with the shrimp keeping community. Currently, I have many different types of formula even for a single breed of shrimps. The formula I have been sharing are based on my knowledge that balanced between usability (I have many tanks and this is a very important aspect for me) and what are best for shrimps. In order to hasten and simplified my future research, I would like to hear the voice from everyone on the type of salts they would prefer. So that I can concentrate on specific salt type or dosing method, instead of creating multiple versions. Please select from the poll and if possible, please post out what shrimp you keep and the type of parameters you prefer, such is mild acidic with zero KH, slight alkaline with 2 dKH, very acidic with zero KH, etc. Thanks. Shrimpy Daddy
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