Razzy Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Above are the latest water parameters. Ammonia looks to be about 0 But again it's still hard for me to see the diff between green and yellow. Nitrite seems to def dropped from 5.0ppm to now 0ppm and today is the first for it to be 0 for nitrites Nitrates is another story and it might be hard to tell but it's the darkest color, appearing to be 160ppm or off the charts. Maybe it's cycled and I need to do a complete water change? If that is the case wouldn't no water kill the bacteria on the sponge filter? Since this will be my first ever shrimp tank, I wanted to start with cherry shrimp as I heard they were the hardiest (and I find them really cute and entertaining) I was previously gonna buy them on ebay or amazon ( since no fish stores around me sell the shrimps and only have ghost shrimp) If I'm able to purchase cherries on here that would be wonderful. I kinda trust people to sell on here rather than ebay or amazon. I also just did a 20% water change to remove all the dead plant debris at the bottom of the gravel and other dead/food things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mamashack Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 The filter will be ok as long as it's kept moist and not allowed to dry out. The time it takes to do a water change will not damage the bacterial colony unless it is prolonged for some reason so make sure you set the time aside to do it when there will be no interruptions. I reckon the nitrite is definitely 0 - difficult to tell the ammonia one as it needs to be against the white back ground next to the ammonia colours not over the coloured bit. It's near 0 if not actually 0. Don't forget the big water change when you are ready to purchase your shrimp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzy Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 I think the ammonia is 0 as well. I'm just gonna give it a few more days to see how the parameters hold up and hopefully I'll be able to purchase some red cherry's next week. The water change should reduce the nitrates to a lower number and stay there right? Also wanted to ask if anyone knows of a good seller of cherry shrimp on here? Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soothing Shrimp Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 I'll pm you on the shrimp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzy Posted December 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 The nitrites appear to be rising. Here I thought it would stay at 0, will test later in the day to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mamashack Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 It's not ready if there are nitrites still present. It mean they can't process it in 24 hrs. This is the problem when doing fish-in cycle - it takes much longer to achieve a fully cycled tank as the water has to be kept at a level safe for fish which essentially removes the bacteria's food which slows down the growth, whereas the fishless way there's nothing to harm so it doesn't matter if there are nitrites present or how high the nitrates get until that final water change before adding shrimp/fish or whatever livestock is selected. Shrimp are more sensitive to water parameters than most fish so you need to get it right before adding them. OR you could add another decent dose of Safe Start and then add the shrimp and then keep a very close eye on the water parameters and using Prime as a back- up if any of them spike. littlebirdie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzy Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 I'm just gonna keep an eye out and keep testing They dropped again soon after to 0 for ammonia and nitrites. Gonna test again in a few hours. Thanks for all the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyeGuy411 Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Do you have an HOB filter as well or just a sponge filter? I use Purigen in the filter compartment of my tanks to absorb any excess contaminants in the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzy Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 I just have the included sponge block filter that is included with the fluval spec v. There was two things included as well. Charcoal and ceramic rings i think? or something of the nature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyeGuy411 Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 So if im not mistaken the Spec V has a large filter compartment. Is there room to put a 3x3" bag of purigen? That could help you minimize the excess nitrates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzy Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I believe i can yeah. I'll look into it. My water parameters held fine for a few days (ammonia and nitrite were 0 and nitrate was still spiked) So I assumed it was cycled and did a 90% water change to help remove all the excess nitrates. So now my parameters readAmmonia: 0.50 ppm Nitrite: spiked ot 5.0ppm Nitrate: no change stilled spiked up and didnt go down. I was told the water change would help reduce the excess nitrates but it's still up there. Is this supposed to happen? Why did removing almost all the water spike up everything? Do I have to give it a day or so for the water chemistry and readings to stabilize ? Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r45t4m4n Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 I am in the same boat. Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate ~10ppm. Did a 95% water change (only water in substrate remained) and nitrates were back at ~10ppm later that night. Going to do another large water change this weekend. I have alot of shrimp on hold awaiting these cycled tanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzy Posted December 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Same. I'm beginning to doubt my self now. I don't know whats going on. The parameters held for a couple days but after the water change everythings rising. Can anyone help/ leave some input?I'm kinda wanting to buy another tetra safestart bottle to use.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chibikaie Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 What probably happened is the nitrates are so far off the chart that diluting them with the water change still gives you a high reading. Keep doing water changes. countryboy12484 and RyeGuy411 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyeGuy411 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Yeah I would keep doing regular water changes maybe 50% every other day. Until nitrates come down to a reasonable level like 10-20. Do you still have the fish in there? If so how's it doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzy Posted December 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Yeah I would keep doing regular water changes maybe 50% every other day. Until nitrates come down to a reasonable level like 10-20. Do you still have the fish in there? If so how's it doing? My fish seem to be doing fine. It's not acting out of the ordinary. I'll do those 50% water changes. Thanks for the reply. I tested my water out of the tap just to make sure my test kit was not bugged or anything. Did disturbing the substrate make the spike happen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyeGuy411 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 It's possible disturbing the substrate could cause some fluctuations but not like that. I think you just need to keep at it like we've said the fish in cycle takes longer. When you are testing the nitrates make sure you are shaking the #2 bottle really well, I whack mine on table upside down really hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzy Posted December 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 I'll just continue along then. Why is safestart marked as a fish in cycle then? I thought it'd be fast as was instructed on the bottle of safestart. Will do a water change later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mamashack Posted December 14, 2014 Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 I think the fact that you have no ammonia or nitrite and 10 ppm nitrate shows that you have both sets of bacteria working. 10 ppm NO3 isn't high altho it is probably the top end of comfortable for the shrimp. API nitrate/NO3 test is notoriously difficult to use properly/effectively as RyeGuy mentioned so I use Salifert for the nitrate as it's a lot easier and more reliable altho I still use API for the others - NH3/4, NO2 and pH. Safe Start is probably ok for adding shrimp straight off as they don't produce much waste, but fish do produce more. Make sure there's no detached/rotting leaves etc that could be adding to the load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzy Posted December 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 I think that's accurate for the other user who posted, but for my situation my nitrates and nitrites are spiked and I'm also showing 1ppm of ammonia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chibikaie Posted December 14, 2014 Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 Razzy, if you are seeing nitrites and nitrates, in any concentration, then you already have the right bacteria. What you do not have is enough of them to process the amount of waste that is being generated each day. As time passes, the bacteria will multiply until there are enough to handle your bioload. I have in the past used Safestart myself with good results. However, I do hear from time to time that other people have not had the same success with it. So I think it is very possible that quality varies from batch to batch. Have patience and do water changes. You will get there. And please see if someone can take that poor oto, as the elevated ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates are very harmful even if you do not see their effects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzy Posted December 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 I might have to give them in to a petco or local fish store. Petco for some reason (at least the ones ive visited) won't take the fish back without a receipt ? and I do not have that. And it's realy hard for me to find any lfs here.. but I'll try to rehome the oto. I also purchased seachem purigen just to replace my activated carbon in the filter media chamber. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyeGuy411 Posted December 14, 2014 Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 Where do you live? Are you somewhere remote? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzy Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 So if im not mistaken the Spec V has a large filter compartment. Is there room to put a 3x3" bag of purigen? That could help you minimize the excess nitrates. I just recently purchased a bag from amazon and put it into my filter compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyeGuy411 Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 That should help to absorb the nitrates and also any excess amonia and nitrites. With the swings you are having and if you are unable to remove the fish just be patient I would wait another month before adding shrimp just to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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