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Skrimps dying! (need help)


d3r

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It could very well be the TDS.  I know that when I added fish to a shrimp tank and fed them tiny bits twice a day the TDS skyrocketed from 150-230 in the matter of a week.  So there is a possibility that the TDS is way off from what they came from which with shrimp casues osmotic shock.  Since they have an exoskeleton and cant balance out the internal and external pressure they get stressed to death.

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TDS test is a digital pen LFS would most likely not carry them. Fish are not sensitive to TDS because they can equalize internal and external pressure. You can get one off of amazon for cheap 15-25 bucks.  Controlling TDS boils down to what the TDS of your source water is, for most people tap water. Then monitor the increases in TDS and when it gets to a level higher than what it started at thats when you do a water change.  My tap water is about 180 TDS so for my cherry tanks they are usually around 200-250 when it gets up towards 250 thats when I do a 10-15% water change.

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I suspect:

1 food, only feed shrimp food, not fish food

2 GH, around 8 should be good

3 Filter, not good enough, adding canister/HOB filter

4. Temp 68-70F

5, Substrate, for bare bottom tank, pH may swing big. adding pool sand as substrate.

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So im looking to order some gh+ now.

Im wondering how long it lasts keeping the parameters stable.

I imagine the parameters will slowly get out of wack when I have to top off due to evaporation. Or do I add gh+ to every little bit I add per week?

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Cool cool.

I went several days without deaths so I figured it was under control but woke up today with another dead one. So ill give 100% ro a shot xD

Could it be the hikari algea wafers doing it? I dont have any 'shrimp specific" food and my lfs doesnt sell it.

I put 2 in for 1hr then take the excess out. Have been doing this every 3 days or so.

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I use TetraVeggie algae wafers in mine every now and then and they do fine. (My Oto loves them) Hikari algae are probably really similar, but I have heard people occasionally get too much copper, TDS, or even ammonia spikes from using other types of fish foods. (May be a myth, though)

You can feed regular veggies, too. Many people recommend organic produce since inverts can be sensitive to pesticides, but quite frankly, I've used conventional zucchini, spinach, and kale without problems. Boil them in water in the microwave for about a minute, then cool and drop them in. (Little pieces, of course)

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Hmm still cant figure it out..nothing seems to be wrong.

my salty shrimp GH+ will be here in a day or 2.. how do I go about switching my current water with 100% RO water?

Without shocking and killing the remaining shrimp.

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d3r, have you tried doing a full tank reset? i tried out before, actually it was soothing's suggestion and it worked out fine... :) im setting a new tank up with black river sand and just mosses, crypts, and anubias... and using 100 filtered water with TDS of 003.... and remineralizing with nutrafin african cichlid conditioner... works well so far.. :)

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I think you may have gotten shrimp that have had bacterial infection prior to you receiving them. If they are turning milky white then it is bacterial and more than likely with out treatment they will to just continue dying. You can try Seachem Paraguard but if they are dropping at the rate they are going now, you soon will not have anything to treat. I am sorry you are having a bad first experience but I would not let this discourage you from a future try with some good stock to start out with. Hope this helps.

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Thanks. Im down to 5 now (I think)

I found this place afterward so from now on ill try to buy from sponsors from here.

but yea...ill find some seachem paraguard and treat. Maybe do that BEFORE switching to 100% ro so I know what the problem was/is. Like I said my tap water fits the required params for cherrys so id rather use tap if at all possible.

thanks for all the help and suggestions. This hasnt driven me away from shrimp just yet xD as frustrating as it is.

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