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Experience using seachem equilibrium n nutrafin african cichlid conditioners to boost gh.


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hey stoned,

 

http://www.aquotix.com.au/advice/management/gh-general-hardness

 

regarding water remineralisation - i've been learning about this subject a lot recently - you might want to check out the above link, it explains a bit about calcium and magnesium, and there is a calculator at the bottom which is very helpful (you just need gh testkit and calcium testkit and you can work out some great stuff)

 

as the others above mentioned and you are now aware, seachem equilibrium has a high proportion of potassium - myunderstanding is this shouldn't be a huge problem provided you are not topping up constantly., i have been remineralising RO using a DIY mix of calcium, magnesium and potassium sulphate in the proportions recommended/calculated by someone from my local shrimp forum.

 

im having molts galore, increased saddles and colour improvement as a result - i have been doing a lot of WC with this new mix due to a high nitrate mistake ! so far the results are great :-D

 

hope this helps at all, do check out the link it is a great resource!

 

love n peace

 

will

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thanks will... so far i stopped using equilibrium and just focused on using a remineralizer for shrimp and so far the molting has slowed down and not as many deaths as what i encountered the past week... i think i lost about 1/3 of my colony hopefully this time i would be much better... right now i just have a 10 gal tub of RO water that has been remineralized and an airstone in it... so when i do top ups and water changes the TDS parameters and GH are more or less the same as that in my tank... i havent tried using a calcium test kit... would mind consider getting one myself... thanks for sharing

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You want to use nonremineralized pure ro for top offs. When water evaporates the minerals remain in the tank. If you use remineralized water for top off your gh/kh (if adding kh) will increase over time. Remineralized water is to be used for water changes only. This might be part of the problem, water parameters constantly increasing each time a top off is done.

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Plus one on the top offs... i have been contemplating on doing that just using straight ro for top offs and bi weekly water changes witj remineralized ro water. My borneo wild shield is coming in the mail... may i ask how long and how often and how much borneowild shield do u feed in your tank?

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when i tested my mix using the API kits i found it was 3.1:1 calcium:magnesium

the guy who developed it was intending it to be 3:1.. ive read elsewhere that between 3:1 and 4:1 is the correct ratio.

 

the recipe for the mix is as follows - much credit to the helpful fellow who put this together!)

 

Calcium Sulphate CaSO4 55gm
Magnesium Sulphate (Espom Salt) MgSO4 37gm
Potassium Sulphate (aka Sulphate Of Potash) K2SO4 11gm
Iron Sulphate (optional) FeSO4 0.30gm
Manganese Sulphate (optional) MnSO4 0.16gm
Total weight 103.46gm.

Alternatively, Iron and Manganese can be replaced with a Micro-nutrient mix 0.46gm.

 

basically the idea is to measure out the chemicals at the above levels (multiply those numbers if necessary to make up larger batches)

you add the weighed out chemicals to ~1/4 gallon bottle and then you slowly drip it in to your changewater until you reach the desired TDS. you have to be sure to shake up your mix bottle well before using it as being highly concentrated it seperates quite quickly.

 

i'm not sure if i can post links to my local shrimp forum here? but i'm ofc more than happy to give u the link in PM if you want to know more about it.

 

love n peace

 

will

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nope it doesnt have to be 10ml? I didnt know api made a saltwater specific calcium test. the one i have is ok for either.

u can use 10ml or 20ml of test water. just remember to divide your ppm result accordingly.

ie if u use 10ml then each drop before endpoint colour is 10ppm. if u use 20ml then each drop counts only as 5ppm.

lol im so proud that acadaca is our most prominent cultural relic for u heh ;-)

love n peace

will

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Looks'like the reset slowed down the death rate. But still experiencing one death daily... still puzzled as to what the cause is..

I do have some supplements which i use mosura richwater and bioplus

My borneo wild stout is still in the mail same with my mosura old sea mud

Before i add these to the tank.. what does the old sea mud really do?

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definitely agree u should keep things stable now as muchas possible now that uv got things under control. changing conditions too often will add stress for sure !

love n peace

will

edit - seamud is mainly just a calcium and magnesium replenishment so far aa I know. those are the main (and im pretty sure the only *critical* elements that shrimp use up constantly and 100% need to access from the water column).

i haven't seen indian almond leaves mentioned much on this forum. those are a great natural cheap way of adding some antibacterial to the tank and can help a lot.

as an added bonus they're GREAT food for when you go on holiday :-)

love n peace

will

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i used IAL once in my tanks when i have new shrimp introduced they work well but i guess my shrimps were not that thrilled to feast on the IAL. two days no and no deaths... hopefully things have stabilized now... with regard to the old sea mud how often would you guys use it? say once a month or after each water change?

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  • 2 weeks later...

hi will,

 

things seemed better now, though i had a few set backs due to dosing gravidas, and an overdose of shield set me a bit so did a 30% water change and keeping it that way... added an IAL to the tank as well :) i might also consider the deaths due to over population i got about 70 plus shrimps in my 15gal

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hi guys didnt want to start a new thread or post... since this was about fixing molting issues... i noticed one possible thing that could throw my tank in chaos is that my shrimps molted too frequently... how do i slow this down...? I have been just feeding them one shirakura wafer daily... or could this be hyper molting be a result of my previous overdose of gravidas and sheild... didint want to do a water change as i might force them to molt again and lead to further stress..

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