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Mayphly's New Shrimp Rack


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What lids are those Malphy ? I like that they have a crease on them that can fold.

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I use the Marineland glass canopies. I have the Aqueon ones as well. But, the Marineland ones have a better (tighter) fit imo.

http://m.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3730+3781&pcatid=3781

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I use the Marineland glass canopies. I have the Aqueon ones as well. But, the Marineland ones have a better (tighter) fit imo.

http://m.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3730+3781&pcatid=3781

Thanks for the quick reply.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Andy,

 

I love reading about shrimp rack projects and this thread is chock full of details and information, thanks.

I wished I had picked up earlier the tip about curving the HMF foam without having to silicone anything in the tank.

 

How are the lights treating you so far? I have a similar but shorter version of the Beamworks LED sitting right on top

of my 29G tall and I had to dim it way down.

 

Sam

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Andy,

 

I love reading about shrimp rack projects and this thread is chock full of details and information, thanks.

I wished I had picked up earlier the tip about curving the HMF foam without having to silicone anything in the tank.

 

How are the lights treating you so far? I have a similar but shorter version of the Beamworks LED sitting right on top

of my 29G tall and I had to dim it way down.

 

Sam

Hey Sam, Thanks for the feedback! I'm glad I went with these lights. I have them raised about 9 inches from the tanks on the top and middle row and I don't have to worry about algae taking over my tanks. The tanks on the bottom shelf the lights are raised 5 inches and I have gsa growing nicely on the side walls of the tank. There are two settings (bright & dim) which you can select from. I run them at their brightest settings so I can see everything better.

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The blue HFM will turn to a dark grayish green over time so you won't have that bright blue forever.

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The blue HFM will turn to a dark grayish green over time so you won't have that bright blue forever.

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That's good to know. I was also wondering about that. That blue is bright!

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Yes it is! I can try and get a photo of what mine look like if you want

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Yes it is! I can try and get a photo of what mine look like if you want

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Sure! That woud be great. I'm curious to see what it'll eventually look like.

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Here you go!

4133924dea9a8300c00fe1f06993085a.jpg

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Do you automate your water changes?  Seems like that many tanks would feel like a part time job come water change day.

I only change water once in a while. For top offs I just add a small amount of ro straight into the tank. For water changes I use a 5 gallon bucket with multiple drip lines coming from it. It's really not that bad.

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So how much water do you change and how often?

I really don't follow any WC schedule. I check my TDS at random throughout the week and try and keep it between 120-140. (Is it weird if you walk around the house with a TDS pen in your pocket?) This range gives me a GH of 5ppm. If my TDS goes over 140 I'll do a small water change. Also. the lids on the tanks help prevent evaporation which helps keep parameters stable. I do check my nitrates about once every couple months. If my nitrates are high I'll perform biweekly 10% water changes to bring them down. [emoji4]
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  • 4 months later...

Mayphly, are you running heaters to all of those tanks (or even several of them)?  

 

What is the recommended guidance on setting up electrical for rack systems.........I'm guessing getting your power higher than your tanks is something to aim for but was wondering if you or anyone else had any ideas/pointers.  I'm familiar with drip-loops but if you are setting everything up custom then you have the ability to really clean things up, which would increase the aesthetics as well as safety.

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I have my power strip strapped to the wall behind the middle row. For the most part it remains hidden by the rack. I placed it there strategically so that all the heaters would reach.

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