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How hard are bee shrimps to keep?


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As the title states, how hard are they to keep?

I know they need certain pH, gh, and kH... But other than those, is there anything else I should be concerned about if I plan to keep CRS/CRS and TB.

Do they need some of those mineral rocks or can I just rely on water chemistry and food for all their needs?

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If  you do it correct, it's pretty easy.

 

Things you need for successful shrimp keeping:

1, 20 gallon long aquarium, this is the size I would recommend. you can keep CRS in smaller tank than 20L, but it requires experience and it's not easy.

2. Active substrate, I will recommend Controsoil Black XFine, don't use ADA Aquasoil Amazonia. 1" thick is more than good enough.

3. RO/DI water with SaltyShrimp Bee GH+ remineralizer. adjust GH to 3-4, and TDS 110-120ppm

4. small amount low light plant, fern, moss, pellia. DO NOT dose any fertilizer.

5. Good sponge filter, like 4.25" Angelfish plus cube 30ppi or HMF filter.

6. HOB (AC50 + MAXIII pre-filter) and small canister filter ( SS inlet guard) (optional)

7. few pieces cholla woods (optional)

8. 100W Heater for 20L ( temp set at 72-74)

9. Seachem Stability (must)

10. Few Tourmaline Balls ( optional)

11. Staple shrimp food. (must)

12. Weekly 20-25% water change. (must)

13. 20W LED light on timer for 8 hours.

 

14. Chiller, if your summer is very hot. Bee shrimp won't do well when temp is above 77.

 

cycle the tank for 1.5 -2 months.

 

Then you are ready to add new bee shrimps.

 

post-231-0-92769200-1444156989_thumb.jpg

 

post-231-0-00440000-1444157131_thumb.jpg

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Great question! Caridina shrimp with the exception of Tiger species in my experience only require two "must-haves" for success.

  1. Active Substrate- This is essential in buffering your PH to a more acidic water chemistry. A bonus is alot of times these active substrates grow plants quite a bit better than an inert substrate, but this certainly isn't the reason we need it.
  2. RODI Water- It is absolutely imperative to use RO or RODI water. This is because you need to remineralize your water chemistry to the shrimp's needs. Can you keep these shrimp in tap water or another type, the short answer is yes. BUT if your going to spend the money it costs for these shrimp, why not give them what they need to thrive, not just survive and in turn they will reward you.

I could go on and on about keeping and breeding Caridina shrimp and Taiwan Bees, but very soon I will be coming out with a two part series on how to keep and breed Taiwan Bees. So I will save the rest for now for the videos :)

 

Hope this helps!!

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I've got the soil and water ready..

Only thing I'm concerned about now is their mineral needs.

Do I have to grab some of those mineral/calcium blocks or is salty bee shrimp gH+ remineralizer enough for them?

Also, if I do get some mineral blocks, will they leach something out or dissolve in water and mess with my gH readings?

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I've got the soil and water ready..

Only thing I'm concerned about now is their mineral needs.

Do I have to grab some of those mineral/calcium blocks or is salty bee shrimp gH+ remineralizer enough for them?

Also, if I do get some mineral blocks, will they leach something out or dissolve in water and mess with my gH readings?

 

I use the mineral blocks in some of my tanks, and not in others.  I can honestly say, I can't point to a specific benefit benefit that I have noticed.  I'm not saying they don't help, but I would spend my extra money on mulberry leaves, snowflake food - other types of supplemental things that are fun to have that the shrimp really enjoy.  I haven't observed the blocks changing my water chemistry.  I don't see how they could hurt anything if you want to get them, but I wouldn't put them down as a "must have".  

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If  you do it correct, it's pretty easy.

 

Things you need for successful shrimp keeping:

1, 20 gallon long aquarium, this is the size I would recommend. you can keep CRS in smaller tank than 20L, but it requires experience and it's not easy.

2. Active substrate, I will recommend Controsoil Black XFine, don't use ADA Aquasoil Amazonia. 1" thick is more than good enough.

3. RO/DI water with SaltyShrimp Bee GH+ remineralizer. adjust GH to 3-4, and TDS 110-120ppm

4. small amount low light plant, fern, moss, pellia. DO NOT dose any fertilizer.

5. Good sponge filter, like 4.25" Angelfish plus cube 30ppi or HMF filter.

6. HOB (AC50 + MAXIII pre-filter) and small canister filter ( SS inlet guard) (optional)

7. few pieces cholla woods (optional)

8. 100W Heater for 20L ( temp set at 72-74)

9. Seachem Stability (must)

10. Few Tourmaline Balls ( optional)

11. Staple shrimp food. (must)

12. Weekly 20-25% water change. (must)

13. 20W LED light on timer for 8 hours.

 

14. Chiller, if your summer is very hot. Bee shrimp won't do well when temp is above 77.

 

cycle the tank for 1.5 -2 months.

 

Then you are ready to add new bee shrimps.

 

attachicon.gif2014-09-04-22.58.jpg

 

attachicon.gif_DSC2464.jpg

If  you do it correct, it's pretty easy.

 

Things you need for successful shrimp keeping:

1, 20 gallon long aquarium, this is the size I would recommend. you can keep CRS in smaller tank than 20L, but it requires experience and it's not easy.

2. Active substrate, I will recommend Controsoil Black XFine, don't use ADA Aquasoil Amazonia. 1" thick is more than good enough.

3. RO/DI water with SaltyShrimp Bee GH+ remineralizer. adjust GH to 3-4, and TDS 110-120ppm

4. small amount low light plant, fern, moss, pellia. DO NOT dose any fertilizer.

5. Good sponge filter, like 4.25" Angelfish plus cube 30ppi or HMF filter.

6. HOB (AC50 + MAXIII pre-filter) and small canister filter ( SS inlet guard) (optional)

7. few pieces cholla woods (optional)

8. 100W Heater for 20L ( temp set at 72-74)

9. Seachem Stability (must)

10. Few Tourmaline Balls ( optional)

11. Staple shrimp food. (must)

12. Weekly 20-25% water change. (must)

13. 20W LED light on timer for 8 hours.

 

14. Chiller, if your summer is very hot. Bee shrimp won't do well when temp is above 77.

 

cycle the tank for 1.5 -2 months.

 

Then you are ready to add new bee shrimps.

 

attachicon.gif2014-09-04-22.58.jpg

 

attachicon.gif_DSC2464.jpg

What is seachem stability use for? Cycling the tank? Since u mentioned it is a must.

I have used them when j was cycling my tanks. May be you have different uses.

Thanks

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What is seachem stability use for? Cycling the tank? Since u mentioned it is a must.

I have used them when j was cycling my tanks. May be you have different uses.

Thanks

 

Seachem Stability is nitrifying bacteria works well in acidic water.

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Is it possible to cycle the tank quicker then 1.5-2 months, if so what methods do you successfully use? 

 

Two things.

 

1. Pre-seeded filter in mature tank for couple months ahead.

2. Controsoil. which does not leach ammonia.

 

New tank can be up and running in day 0.

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Just curious why you do not recommend the ADA soil?  The ADA soil is what I bought off of recommendations from other forums.  Is it just because it leeches ammonia initially or are there multiple reasons? 

 

ADA AS is designed for planted tanks in mind. not for shrimp tank.

 

people uses it as shrimp soil only because it has buffer capability. other things in it is negative.

 

You can ask any expert if they dose fertilizer to shrimp tank, I'm pretty sure the answer is no.

Why use substrate with fertilizer built in?

 

Controsoil is more fit for shrimp tank IMHO.

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Thanks, good info.  I definitely understand where you're coming from.  Why add complexity of fertilizers if they're unnecessary. 

 

I'm still new to keeping anything beyond easy to keep neo's, but I was under the impression the only thing to worry about in fertilizers is is the copper.  I'm not sure what all is contained in the ADA soil.  I'll definitely keep your setup list for a guide on future tanks. 

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Thanks, good info.  I definitely understand where you're coming from.  Why add complexity of fertilizers if they're unnecessary. 

 

I'm still new to keeping anything beyond easy to keep neo's, but I was under the impression the only thing to worry about in fertilizers is is the copper.  I'm not sure what all is contained in the ADA soil.  I'll definitely keep your setup list for a guide on future tanks. 

 

It's old data, but it gives some idea what's in it.

post-231-0-51357100-1444183501_thumb.jpg

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I personally use ADA in all my tanks ranging from 9gal to a 100gal. All are planted and filtered with sponge to canister and I've never had any problems. My personal opinion is planted tanks provide a better environment for shrimp and look better.

I struggled to get bees to breed using other substrates but I use HMA filtered water and not RO. So I don't remineralise it.

My tanks are quite heavily planted and I have large floating plants as a must. Quick growing and soak up any excess nutes.

I tend to only top off and rarely water change. Lots of plants, wood, alder cones and leaves, cholla wood.I use Bacter AE and feed a range of algae wafers from various brands for fish, special shrimp tablets, courgette, baby spinach leaves, crickets occasionally and bloodworm.

Again this works for me and I've read more than one bad report on ADA. My tanks are thriving and crystal clear.

My advice would be start slow and set up right with a good buffering substrate, cycle well then buy half a dozen and try them.

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