Ron.b4

ADA Amazonia questions I have read thru most of the related posts here on this site, but would like to confirm some of my conclusions. I am setting up a new batch of fairly high end caridina tanks and want a low PH medium grain black soil (6 or less) that has a long useful life span. I am currently using 2 of the currently popular soils and while they do archive 6 or less ph, they only seem to last a year or so. I do use only RO/DI with a quality remineralizer and do bi- weekly 20% water changes. My current tanks and shrimp colonies are doing fine. My only question here is if by switching to the ADA Amazonia, will I be able to significantly increase the useful life of the soil. I understand the 6 weeks wait time for the ammonia to dissipate. I typically use mostly Buce and moss with a bit of driftwood and maybe a scattering of other small lowlight plants. There are comments here from people talking about 3 years or more on their Amazonia, but we may not be comparing apples to apples either. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

Thanks for the comments. I've been experimenting with prioritizing each of the different components in different tanks and it seems that the organic content of the water (which is food for the biofilm) and the temperature seem to make the most difference. It's hard to see much difference that can be attributed to just the light, although it is a positive.

Hi, Would adding more light help the biofilm grow faster or is the water temp and organic load more important factors?

Ok, I'll take them. How do we make the transaction?

I'm currently using the common 3% at 1.5ml per gallon tank wide to reduce string/BBA algae and to keep the Hydra under control. My main question is if the stabilizers could be a problem. It seems like the 3% is not very effective dosed once a week. The algae only pull back for a short time and then are right back again. The tanks are real low light with only shrimp and a 20% water change every 2 week. I've seen it suggested that the stronger 35% diluted down to 1.5ml per gal is both more effective and safer for the shrimp, implying that the stabilizers are a negative. But I don't see any discussion here abut it. Has anyone here tried it?

Hi, Do you find that the 35% Food grade Hydrogen Peroxide diluted down to 3% is safer or more effective than the standard Walmart 3% with the stabilizers?

Will several alternate day treatments of FenBen eliminate pond snails in a Bee shrimp tank and be safe for shrimlets?

OK, it looks like I'm on the right track then. Thanks

Vpier. Thanks, I was wondering why no one was using it in the shrimp tanks Interesting, I did not realize that. Thanks

Vpier. Thanks, I was wondering why no one was using it in the shrimp tanks

I'm starting up a new crystal 40b shrimp tank. I'm starting with RO water and new SL-Aqua Nature Soil mineralized soil; so my starting Kh is near zero, my GH is 30ppm, but my PH is 7.5. Can I safely use Seachem's Discs buffer to bring the Ph down until the mineralized soil kicks in? I am adding some aged Flourite, driftwood, a few small fish and some filter rinse residue to seed the new media. There are not any shrimp in the tank for now. I will add them when the water stabilizes. -- Rereading my original post I see that I was not very clear. I have just ordered the SL-Aqua Nature Soil and SL-Aqua Blue Wizard from you, so they are not here yet. The tank currently only has the RO water, wood, moss and a small amount of existing Flourite. Also, I am setting up 2 tanks. Your products will be going in a 20g long My other tank is a 40b and will be using a different media new in the bag from Seachem that I'm trading a friend for. Both tanks are otherwise being set up the same and are using the same water.