Kshrimp Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 Hi, I am new here at ShrimpSpot. I've been keeping fish for 13 years. Over that time I've successfully kept various fish. Some of my original fish are still alive and well after more than a decade. I've tried shrimp on 4 ocassions with no success. I've been to other forums seeking help, but to no avail. Like with fish keeping, there are a million opinions and anecdotes, but nobody really knows. I've tried keeping shrimp 4 times in 2 different mature (established for years) planted tanks: amano shrimp twice, ghost shrimp and Neocaridina davidi. They all start out as what I consider normal. They are active, eating, and "look good." They are all dead within 10 days and start dying on day one. Once I was able to keep a couple amanos alive for a 2-3 months. Prior to dying, they appear and act normally, working their way around the tank grazing etc. Then they are dead with no obvious physical or behavioral signs of health issues. I drip acclimate 1-2 hours upon arrival. Temp: 74-5 F KH: 4dKH GH: 4dGH pH: 7.5 TDS: unknown These tanks receive a 50% weekly water change. Shrimp seem fine after the changes. Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5ppm prior to water change. Never have used any medication in these tanks I've added no metalic plant weights All hardscape (rocks and wood) and plants are natural. Substrate in both of these tanks is Eco Complete One of the 2 tanks is lightly fertilized (Thrive C). The other received no ferts. Parameters the same in both tanks. Other inhabitants are nano fish and snails( Rams Horn, Bladder, Nerite) The shrimp were sourced from 4 different suppliers. Tom Barr thinks it's due to copper pipes in the house plumbing, but surely other people have copper pipes and are able to keep shrimp. Also my pH is not acidic, so I would think copper leaching would be minimal. If I test for copper, what level of copper is too high for shrimp? Plus, I do keep snails... I've had shrimp keepers tell me that shrimp need small frequent water changes. I've had others say they thrive with large water changes. I've been told they can die if there is too much food, but I'm skeptical of that, especially since they start dying immeadiately. Do shrimp really over eat to the point of killing themselves? I'm doubtful. I haven't given up. I have an empty 5 gal I'd like to dedicate to shrimp, but I am thinking of giving up and simply adding a couple dozen chili rasboas (not in the 5 gal) in place of cherry shrimp. Your advice, comments and opinions are welcome and appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ActorMike Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 Use RO/DI water! What's the top ingredient in your tank? Water! Also, you won't have algae problems because there are not phosphates in RODI water either. You have to add GH KH+ to RODI water until the TDS is correct. https://amzn.to/3VU6fch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kshrimp Posted April 11 Author Report Share Posted April 11 Thanks for your reply ActorMike. Here's an update. I have received a lot of advice from various people and have done a lot of research. As it turns out I have a shrimp delivery due to arrive at any minute. I must source them online as fresh water invertebrates are illegal to sell in my state. 9 weeks ago I set up my 5gal tank and cycled it. I have been letting it age a bit before stocking while I waited for outdoor temps to rise enough for shipping. Regarding the water: It's always been a challenge for me to keep snails alive and healthy. Their shells are usually pocked with white patches and sometimes the whole snail is white. They then die prematurely. With a dGH of 4-5 I figured there should be enough CA/MG for them. Cuttle bone and wonder shells don't seem to help. Snello fortified with calcium has helped a little. They now grow to full size, but the shells are still deficient. I tested for CA and MG and the results showed that MG is 0-12ppm and CA is 0-20ppm. Both were too low to register on the test. That got me thinking that the API test I was using might not be accurate. I then tested the GH with a SERA brand test and it tested at 1-2dGH, which seems consistent with the CA/MG test results. So I am using my tap water in the tank and adding mineraliser to raise the dGH to 8. I am leaving the KH at 4. I Have distilled water for top-offs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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