octanejunkie

For every one baby you see there are 5 you don't. Survival rate will have a lot to do with overall conditions. I have most success in rearing tanks with lots of algae on the walls, moss and not much else. Don't over feed tanks with babies, they can't handle adverse conditions. They are better off hunting for food than tripping over it - they are scavengers after all. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I opted for HMF vs. UGF in my smaller tanks Sent while on the go...

I remineralize RO w GH+ to 125-135 TDS for water changes. I top off my tanks w 100% RO to maintain between 150-200 TDS in-tank. Sent while on the go...

+1 on GH+ for all shrimp. I have no issues using it for neos. Sent while on the go...

Howdy Sent while on the go...

That will leech a ton of ammonia and foul the water as it breaks down and decays. I'd rather sprinkle some flake into the tank 2-3 times a week, but my first preference are labyrinth fish like platys or gourami to aide in keeping a tank cycled, or cycling one. Sent while on the go...

Nice write-up, SS Sent while on the go...

So much to say on this topic, but sounds like you're on the right track. Ive got 6 shrimp tanks running, 4 starting up and 4 more tanks w plants and shrimp. I distinguish between shrimp tanks and planted tanks w shrimp in my house. Shrimp tanks are simple and easy: low light plants and mosses (java ferns, floaters) good filtration, 100% RO and a soil based on the species' needs. I keep 9 different shrimp species. Crystals and bees on ADA aquasoil, usually, but I have a few tanks w Shrimp Sand and one w EC. Good bio filtration is important. I use sponge filters in addition to HOB filters in small tanks and am converting some to HMF as I move them to my shrimp rack; and my larger tanks will be on a sump system. I only dose KNO3 and Fe once a week, 1-2 drops per gallon, and Flourish (micros) once a month, again 1-2 drops per gallon. No CO2 in shrimp tanks. Feed using a feed dish, 2-3 times a week only, and remove what they don't eat in a few hours. I favor blanched leafy greens, carrot, zucchini and broccoli stems. I use dowme Jake's complete veggie, hikari shrimp cuisine and the occasional small algae wafer broken into small pieces. I also have shrimp in buckets, literally, as well as tanks. Very easy to keep shrimp. Less is more. Sent while on the go...

Thanks for the welcomes Sent while on the go...

ADS aquasoil FTW, $40 a bag 100% RO is the way to go. Make sure your fiance tops off water too. More important than feeding. I just came back from 4 days in NY, fed before I left, had a neighbor do top-offs every other day. All was well upon my return. Sent while on the go...

January, February… sure, make a big deal out of it. We're both here in the '14 Figured that would catch your ire :grouphug

He's not really busted when his signature says "Will" LOL I just forgot to ask if he is that same Will from TheShrimpTank.com…

I referred Bostoneric… does that get me anything

Your goal to prep your tank to be "safe" for new shrimp is admirable, however, don't drive yourself crazy. Keeping shrimp is quite simple with the right setup. Clean stable water, good filtration and mature tank with bio film, moss and a few low light plants. Use a feed dish and don't overfeed, 2-3 times a week is really enough. I have found that remineralizing RO water to 125 TDS using GH+ is fine for me and gets me a TDS in the range of 150-200 (in the tank) which is perfect for just about any shrimp; and you'll want a GH of about 4-8 for crystal shrimp. I top off my tanks with 100% RO, not remineralized, and only use GH+ for water changes; again targeting 150-200 TDS in tank. I suggest you get your tank stable and test water parameters with an API Master Freshwater kit, not test strips. If your tank is stable for a week with you should be fine. Don't over think this, your shrimp won't either

Like Rodney Dangerfield said in CaddyShack "Keep it fair, keep it fair"