Post body regulator upgrades.

[aquarist]

For a while now I have been wanting to run multiple tanks off a single co2 regulator. So after doing a but of research and asking a good amount of questions I have started upgrading the post bodies on Milwaukee Ma957s.

So far I've made two splitters, one of them with good Fabco needle valves and the other with the stock needle valves off the Ma957s that I already own.

My next step will be to upgrade the solenoid on each regulator. Then eventually I will be moving both post bodies to two SS Victor dual stage regulators, but the regulator bodies aren't high on my priority right now since the Ma957s are still working fine.

On to the builds!

Fabco co2 splitter:

I wanted to use shorter brass connections but they didn't have any at the store I was at, I may change the configuration around a bit but right now everything is working great! I plan on getting stainless steel fittings later to replace the brass. Have this hooked up to a 20# canister and it's running my 75g display tank and my 20L soon to be display shrimp tank.

Parts:

Fabco NV 55-18 - x2

1/8in MIP x 1 1/2in - x2

1/8in MIP x 2in - x2

1/8in FIP T connector - x1

1/8in MIP x Close - x2

1/8in MIP x 1/8in FIP - x2

1/4in od x 1/8in MIP compression - x2

You can use different parts, and less parts, but these are the parts I used.

Supplies:

Teflon tape

Vice grips

Vice - I didn't use one but would've been helpful

A towel

Wrapping the threads of the fittings with the Teflon tape is important. This will help creat a better seal and a more secure connection between the fittings and prevent any possible leaks. It is important to to take your time and wrap the Teflon tape correctly, you do not want it to be all bunched up, you want to spread it out as you wrap the threads, this can take some time and practice but it is worth wrapping it correctly. Also don't use too much tape, this can prevent the fittings from connecting together properly.

(Pictures to come of this!)

Step one:

I started out by removing the stock needle valve from the solenoid. I then connected the T valve and the 2 inch brass pipe, I connected the pipe to the down part of the T, this will be the pipe the goes to the solenoid.

Step two:

Wrap the threads of the two 1 1/2 inch brass pipes, and connect them to the T valve. This is where the towel comes in handy, I wrapped it around the part and clamped the vice grips onto it, it helps prevent a lot of damage to the pipe and also aided in getting it into the T valve tightly.

Step three:

Connect the street elbows to the end of the 1 1/2 inch brass pipes, this is where the vice will come in handy, you want to make sure both of them are not only connected securely, but also orientated the same. Once again, wrap all thread in Teflon tape.

Step four:

Connect your needle valves to the street elbows.

Step five:

There are two different ways you can go here depending on your ultimate goal. If you want to connect a bubble counter you will want to attach the 1/8in MIP x Close nipple to the needle valves. If you do not want to use bubble counters you will connect the 1/4in OD x 1/8in MIP compression fittings.

Compression fitting, if you use the compressions fittings you are now done, and can install it on the regulator of your choice.

Nipple fitting:

Step six:

Now your done building the splitter and can connect it to the regulator of your choice. Once it is secure to the solenoid you will want to install your bubble counters, I did this the other way around in the beginning and broke a bubble counter, so I would advise you to attach the splitter to the solenoid then attach the bubble counters.

While I was attaching the splitter to my regulator I accidental broke one of the plastic cylinders, and replaced one with a compression fitting.

Stock needle valve co2 splitter:

I decided to use the stock needle valve that I am replacing and build a second splitter for two of my other tanks that's don't have any livestock. This is a quick and easy build with no frills or extra fittings. This will run a 29g and 10g, but will be upgrading those to two 40B on the next $1 a gallon sale.

Parts:

1/8in MIP x 2in. - x1

1/4in OD x 1/8 in FIP - x2

1/8in FIP T connector - x1

Step one:

Remove the stock needle valve from the solenoid.

Step two:

Wrap the 2 inch brass pipe with Teflon tape and connect it to the down part of the T, this will connect to the solenoid.

Step three:

Clean up the threads of the two stock needle valves and wrap in new Teflon tape, and attach them to the T connector.

Step four:

Attach the two compression fittings, and you are done! The co2 splitter is now ready for use on my the regulator of your choice.

[h4n]

Looks good!

 

I did something similar with my cheap Milwaukee  regulators also.

 

I have a dual stage with 10 output for half the room.

 

and I did use two Milwaukee with 2 parker needle vale outputs each also haha

[Soothing Shrimp]

Great write up!  Easy to understand even for an easy to get lost guy like me!

[aquarist]

Dang! Let's see a picture of your ten output splitter Han!

Thanks Soothing. I tried to write it in a fashion that others could easily replicate it.

I plan on getting SS fittings for it but I just gotta find a source for them and save up.

[h4n]

Let me see if I can find a picture lol it has the cheap smc1200 needle valves but it gets the job done.

I eventually want to upgrade to the fabco inline ones?

[h4n]

[aquarist]

That's a beast right there!

Where did you get that black bar from? And is it plastic? Also what psi do you have to run to get output in all the tanks?

Eight now on one f my regulators I have to run at around 40psi not sure what other people usually run at.

[Soothing Shrimp]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that aluminum?  Like this 13 port one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-1-4-PT-Air-Pneumatic-Cylinder-10-Way-13-Port-Manifold-Block-Splitter-/321294289264?pt=Pneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item4acea1c970

[aquarist]

Got my Kip SS solenoid in while I was away on vacation. Cannot wait to get it hooked up! Just gotten figure out what plug I need. I know I need a 12v DC adaptor, just not sure is any adaptor will work or if I need a certain one or not.