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POST MOLTING ISSUES


Arbianto
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Hi, just wondering if any of you experienced such of weird behaviour after the shrimp molting, I'm curious and don't know what should i do with this situation,

My Parameters are:

-Amoniac 0-0.25 (yellow to slight green, yes i know its a must for ammoniac to be 0,)

-nitrite 0

-nitrate 5

-ph 5.8

-gh 4 kh 1

-tds 120-130

-Temp 23-24 celcius degeee

I do the setup with :

- Substrate : Breeders Soil type B (lowkeys x crimson x aquatailors)

- Filtration : two sponge filters

- BT9 for bactery starter

- Ro water with tds 0-2 and remineralised it with Shirakura Liquid Ca, i try Mosura Mineral Plus also

currently, I'm cycling for 1 month already..

everything was alright, until they are get molted, since after that, they seems like dying , swimming over here and there, they lost their balance and drop its body to the bottom, trying to get up and fell again, they behave like that for one day long, its really frustated watching it, i thought that they will be dying, but, the things that confused me more is they are still alive and becomes normal (really normal) after all day long struggling,,

I'm trying anything to solve this,, I'm curious is it the source of water or RO system that i used,, because i using RO water which for water drinking, (with Ultraviolet and Ozon system to kill off the bacteria and later i brought it to my storage tank before i add the bactery starter and shirakura liquid).. Dunno whether the shrimp having problem with the water that treated with UV and ozon,, get stressed totally :( the things that i do for now, i bought another ro water,, but dunno if it will solved the problem

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could be that female got molted so males are looking for her to get babies. 
As far as I am experienced, most of my molting issue, they become slow, don't move and then die. (when can't molt)

edit: shrimps are so sensitive to ammonia. so even slightest could kill. 

not on topic but it is best for survival and for long run, it is best to wait until Ammonia is 0. I waited 3 months for cycling my ADA

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video 2 at 8 sec. you can clearly see that he or she is trying to jump out of his skelet but keeps failing...(molting)

he is trying the whole time but keeps failing. 

 

molting problems can be sperated in 2 different problems:

 

1: it did molt but not completely 

2: it did not molt (tried to but failed)

 

which of the problem do you have 1 or 2?

 

i have also now and then a shrimp died cause of molting failure but it is normall.....

i had once a shrimp that did not completely molted, the back of his skeleton did come off but the head and his mouth were stuck in the skeleten 3 hours later dead (sh!t happens)

 

what do you feed your shrimp?

i aks this so i can look if they get enough nutrians

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could be that female got molted so males are looking for her to get babies. 

As far as I am experienced, most of my molting issue, they become slow, don't move and then die. (when can't molt)

edit: shrimps are so sensitive to ammonia. so even slightest could kill. 

not on topic but it is best for survival and for long run, it is best to wait until Ammonia is 0. I waited 3 months for cycling my ADA

 

they don't behave like this if a shrimp dance is happening.

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video 2 at 8 sec. you can clearly see that he or she is trying to jump out of his skelet but keeps failing...(molting)

he is trying the whole time but keeps failing.

molting problems can be sperated in 2 different problems:

1: it did molt but not completely

2: it did not molt (tried to but failed)

which of the problem do you have 1 or 2?

i have also now and then a shrimp died cause of molting failure but it is normall.....

i had once a shrimp that did not completely molted, the back of his skeleton did come off but the head and his mouth were stuck in the skeleten 3 hours later dead (sh!t happens)

what do you feed your shrimp?

i aks this so i can look if they get enough nutrians

Hi Nuri , thanks for your answer

I saw their old shell, thats why i know they get molted,, so the nutrients in food have the effect also? I gave quatro 2 ebita breed bro, but its new shrimp that i bought, dunno what they used to gave them before,, in your opinion, is the gh diferrences have effect also? I mean they were breeding these crs with gh 3 beforez and when i bring them to another thank and set gh to 4, is it also give problem ?

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could be that female got molted so males are looking for her to get babies.

As far as I am experienced, most of my molting issue, they become slow, don't move and then die. (when can't molt)

edit: shrimps are so sensitive to ammonia. so even slightest could kill.

not on topic but it is best for survival and for long run, it is best to wait until Ammonia is 0. I waited 3 months for cycling my ADA

Thanks lloyd for your answer, :)

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How long has your aquarium been setup? We definitely need to get your ammonia to 0, your other parameters look spot on. Is EBITA Breed Quatro II the only food your feeding them?

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i am not familiar with the food product you are using but you need more variations for sure....

(but damn that food you are using is expensive for an unkown brand lol)

always have catappa leaves in your tank if you do not have it.....

 

i dont understand why your ammonia is 0,25 

at a ph lower then 6 the ammoniac should NOT be transfered to ammonium

 

it takes a lot of there power and resources to molt. after the molt the srimp is exhausted (it may lead to death)

to make sure to help them during molting i always feed them with variations of shrimpfood so they will have enough back-up resources after the molting. this may be the problem with your shrimps. they don't have enough resources and start behaving weird just like us :P 

if you are exhausted and haven't eat proper the last weeks you will behave weird and make bad choices, hihi

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@deta: hai bro, yes i need to make amoniac 0,maybe it around 0.1 right now, yellow to greenish a lil bit. I cycled the tank for 1 month already, still not finished yet i think,, hmm, maybe i just using sponge filter only, so that the cycled running so low,, for the food, i gave them only that quatro,, think that i should find another food.. Any suggestion? Awh i forgot.. I add bacterae also

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i am not familiar with the food product you are using but you need more variations for sure....

(but damn that food you are using is expensive for an unkown brand lol)

always have catappa leaves in your tank if you do not have it.....

i dont understand why your ammonia is 0,25

at a ph lower then 6 the ammoniac should NOT be transfered to ammonium

it takes a lot of there power and resources to molt. after the molt the srimp is exhausted (it may lead to death)

to make sure to help them during molting i always feed them with variations of shrimpfood so they will have enough back-up resources after the molting. this may be the problem with your shrimps. they don't have enough resources and start behaving weird just like us :P

if you are exhausted and haven't eat proper the last weeks you will behave weird and make bad choices, hihi

Hahahah, about food, what is your suggestion bro? Anyway, what do you mean by at a ph lower then 6 the ammoniac should NOT be transfered to ammonium.. Im trying to get rid of amoniac, battle is not over yet,, huhuhu.. I cycled another tank with canister there, so shock that for 3 weeks, the amoniac 0 already..

But for this tank, I think it still around 0-0.25 ammoniac ( i believe 0.1) maybe its because of filtration which uses sponge filter only?? Trying to adopt the way taiwanese breeding shrimp that using sponge filter only.. But think that its not that simple, :( i have friend also that cycled for 4 months with sponge filter only, but after that no casualties ever found in that tank.. The shrimp breeding like rabit @.@

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The ammonia might be the problem. Before you worry about foods, nutrition and trace minerals, you need to take care of your ammonia problem first. You should never put any shrimps especially caridina in a tank that is not completely cycled. In my opinion you should never ever have any measurable amounts of ammonia in your tank.

 

It hard to beat a good sponge filter when comes to the biological filtration. Sponges are simple low tech and very efficient at what they do.

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Ammonia becomes 0 for now, nitrite 0, nitrate around 5, hmm i still see the molting problem with others, anyway the one in video, it is become normal again and very active.. -.- i really confused with it.. should i make similiarity with the place they belong before? I mean for GH and tds? The tds for the breeder is 60, with GH 3, i try to make similiar with RO and shirakura liquid ca, but can get GH 3 with 85 tds.. Anyone?

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