CarissaLynn Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 I'm new to the hobby and all of my tanks are planted - I personally have 5 tanks and help care for 4 other planted tanks at my job and all of them have 'issues' in regards to the plants, all different issues too. I was hoping I could find someone experienced with planted tanks that would be kind enough to let me pester the heck out of them with a million photos/questions and back and forth to try and learn what I'm doing wrong sorta thing through like PM or something to hopefully correct in all these tanks and be more knowledgable when I set up my new bigger tank (all my tanks are in the 3.5-10g range, I am going to be setting up a 29g soon). I don't know if this is of value but I'm a graphic designer and willing to do little graphic design projects if needed so to speak in return for the help since I know me and I really am going to annoy whoever offers to help answer my questions lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shrimp Life Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 It might be easier if you post your questions and pics here on the forum, get multiple people's opinions plus it can help and teach others as well too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarissaLynn Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Hm alright - I'll start with one tank to not overwhelm it - will type everything out and get photos in a second! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarissaLynn Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 TANK NUMBER 1 - GARRIX'S TANK SIZE: Half of a 10g (Hard divide, no shared water with the other side of of the 10g) EQUIPMENT: Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Light (In an office, I will be honest in saying there is a chance they forget to shut the lights off in the office at night, I am not 100% sure), Fluval Stratum Substrate, Easy Green Fertilizer (3 pumps when I do a 25% water change every week or two plus I throw in a pump every other day or so - not super on top of that) INHABITANTS: One Betta, occasionally a black racer snail (he gets moved from tank to tank - isn't in the tank at the moment) - this particular betta is not good w/ shrimp so they aren't an option to help sadly. I just got some really big amano shrimp so I may try them but he attacked cherry shrimp and small amano shrimp so I moved them) PLAN T S: Anubias Barteri, Crypt. Lucen, Micro Sword, Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus, Water Lettuce ISSUES: Water lettuce seems to grow very very slow in this tank, I tend to get brown spot algae on the glass - is none right now because the black racer snail had cleaned most of it and I cleaned the rest, I see black beard algae I think on a good amount of the surfaces, there is brown algae on the filter, the plants don't seem to grow and just look kinda dull - the Anubias has holes on most of the leaves and the Micro Sword is pathetic looking to the point that I keep debating just taking it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarissaLynn Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 TANK NUMBER 2 - MAKO'S TANK SIZE: Half of a 10g (Hard divide, no shared water with the other side of of the 10g) (Tank Number 1 is the other half of this 10g) EQUIPMENT: Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Light (In an office, I will be honest in saying there is a chance they forget to shut the lights off in the office at night, I am not 100% sure), Fluval Stratum Substrate, Easy Green Fertilizer (3 pumps when I do a 25% water change every week or two plus I throw in a pump every other day or so - not super on top of that) INHABITANTS: One Betta, occasionally a black racer snail (he gets moved from tank to tank - is currently in this tank), I just added 3 big Amano shrimp yesterday (Can already see a difference in the brown spot algae from them) PLANTS: Java Fern, Java Fern Windelov, Ruffle Sword, Anubias Gold Coin, Vallisneria ISSUES: Water lettuce seems to grow very very slow in this tank, I tend to get brown spot algae on the glass, I see a little bit of black beard algae, the plants don't seem to grow, the ruffle sword and vallisneria both are brown/yellowing and sort of limp, the windelov gets almost a burnt look to the edges, the java fern is giving off a lot of babies which I've heard means it isn't doing well, there holes on the java fern, and the golden coin has a decent amount of brown algae on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILikeAsianBooty Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Tbh, your better off asking here even though I know some here are also plant advocates. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ Tbh, seems like its getting too much light. Those plants that you have are low light plants and that depth with that finnex is overdoing it For reference. http://rotalabutterfly.com/aquarium-plant-deficiencies.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappy6107 Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 15 minutes ago, ILikeAsianBooty said: Tbh, seems like its getting too much light. Those plants that you have are low light plants and that depth with that finnex is overdoing it I agree. I have an office fish tank that gets light from the office lights from 8:30 -5:30. That by itself will grow my low tech / low light plants. I also have a light on the tank. If I turn that light on along with the office lights, I will get all kinds of algae in just 1 day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revaria Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Java fern and java fern windelov are known to get light burns if you leave them under high light for too long so I would reduce the lighting period and intensity. And it looks like you are dosing to much easy green as your tank doesn't have too many plants and easy green is pretty concentrated in nutrients, so if there are extra nutrients it will go to the algae if there is not enough CO2 within the tank. And black beard algae may be due to a lack of circulation within the tank or bad CO2 levels. Finally it also depends on how new your tanks are because the brown diatom algae are always within newly planted aquariums and it clears up by itself within a few weeks or months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarissaLynn Posted June 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 Thank you for all the feedback on those two tanks - they for sure give me a starting point and some things to try changing and see how it helps/effects. I have an odd question on if having a glass lid on the tank makes a difference or not - there is currently one on the tank and I'm wondering if that makes the high level even worse since it's passing through glass. When I get back to work on Monday I'm gonna look over the light controls and see what I can do to lower the intensity and/or just put it on a timer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickAus Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 Quote I have an odd question on if having a glass lid on the tank makes a difference or not You have Bettas in the tank you need a lid they are notorious jumpers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarissaLynn Posted June 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 6 minutes ago, NickAus said: You have Bettas in the tank you need a lid they are notorious jumpers. Oh yeah I know - wasn't planning on taking it off that tank but was just curious for future knowledge w/ a future tank. NickAus 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickAus Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 Having a lid reduces evaporation and prevents stuff like dust, human and pet hair and god knows what else falling in the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicpapa Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 You keep slow grow plants. Think that you give plants all they need but platns need also co2.. Without co2, plants grow slower, but you give ferts , light and subtrate that have lot in there. So thats why the algae, something must eat the ferts in the water. If i was you, lower the light, you can raise it up from the tank. Water changes .... Co2 is the key, but you can use organic co2 like excel . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shrimple minded Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 As others have already mentioned, my initial reaction is a reduction in light intensity and/or photoperiod (realizing its a 24/7) and also back way off on the ferts. How long have these tanks been set up? With the diatoms and fuzz it looks like these are newer tanks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickAus Posted June 24, 2018 Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 Quote organic co2 like excel . Buyer BeAware: SeaChem Excel Quote Glutaraldehyde is an antimicrobial, bactericide, fungicide, and virucide, commonly used to sterilize medical instruments. It is also used as an embalming fluid, as an ingredient in Anti-Freeze, an antibacterial agent in cooling towers, a leather tanning agent, a biocide in water treatment, a sanitary solution for portable toilets, and is used to sterilize ballast tanks in ships moving from one water source to another (to kill off pathogens and critters that may be transferred in the tanks from one water way to another). https://www.oscarfish.com/article-home/equipment/114-buyer-beaware-seachem-excel.html You dont need it, all you need is Seachem Flourish Comprehensive. I add 1 millilitre of Seachem Flourish Comprehensive to this tank every week, When I remember. I add 1/2 millilitre of Seachem Flourish Comprehensive to this tank every2 weeks. I add 3 millilitre of Seachem Flourish Comprehensive to this tank every week I do not add anything to this tank I do 50 to 70% water changes every week, I do not vacuum the substrate, and all tanks have snails, I love Malaysian Trumpet snails, every planted tank needs them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revaria Posted June 24, 2018 Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 16 hours ago, NickAus said: Buyer BeAware: SeaChem Excel https://www.oscarfish.com/article-home/equipment/114-buyer-beaware-seachem-excel.html You dont need it, all you need is Seachem Flourish Comprehensive. I add 1 millilitre of Seachem Flourish Comprehensive to this tank every week, When I remember. I add 1/2 millilitre of Seachem Flourish Comprehensive to this tank every2 weeks. I add 3 millilitre of Seachem Flourish Comprehensive to this tank every week I do not add anything to this tank I do 50 to 70% water changes every week, I do not vacuum the substrate, and all tanks have snails, I love Malaysian Trumpet snails, every planted tank needs them. You may have different tap water parameters than us, if your water naturally has nitrates and other fertilizers that is blessing for plants, as you don't have to add anything to your tanks. Everyone has their own style which helps them succeed in my cases to keep most of my plants and invertebrates added components are required as my water comes out at a TDS of 40, very low gh, very low kh and no fertilizers which is a guarantee death sentence for most of the plants I kept and invertebrates I keep. Granted however my water is perfect for breeding tropical fish which is pretty swell for me. nicpapa 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarissaLynn Posted June 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 On 6/23/2018 at 4:09 PM, Shrimple minded said: As others have already mentioned, my initial reaction is a reduction in light intensity and/or photoperiod (realizing its a 24/7) and also back way off on the ferts. How long have these tanks been set up? With the diatoms and fuzz it looks like these are newer tanks? The tanks are pretty new - these two were set up May 8th and used filter media from previous tanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumanArtRebel1020 Posted August 25, 2018 Report Share Posted August 25, 2018 On 6/23/2018 at 8:13 PM, NickAus said: Buyer BeAware: SeaChem Excel https://www.oscarfish.com/article-home/equipment/114-buyer-beaware-seachem-excel.html You dont need it, all you need is Seachem Flourish Comprehensive. I add 1 millilitre of Seachem Flourish Comprehensive to this tank every week, When I remember. I add 1/2 millilitre of Seachem Flourish Comprehensive to this tank every2 weeks. I add 3 millilitre of Seachem Flourish Comprehensive to this tank every week I do not add anything to this tank I do 50 to 70% water changes every week, I do not vacuum the substrate, and all tanks have snails, I love Malaysian Trumpet snails, every planted tank needs them. So pretty omg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumanArtRebel1020 Posted August 25, 2018 Report Share Posted August 25, 2018 Whats your water param ? Less lights, maybe more co2 or oxegen. I know plants need alot of oxegen. I have alot of guppies in a ten gallon and i cleaned the tank and removed them for 3 to 4 days till i recieved cartriges in the mail and looking in there after the 4 days the plants were completely deep green again . The beard algae kinda just died . I think its because the oxegen pump was going the entire time like always and the lights were off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGlassBox Posted September 3, 2018 Report Share Posted September 3, 2018 Yeah, too many nutrients and light and not enough CO2 to balance it. One thing to note about the liquid CO2s like Excell; some plants like vallisneria are sensitive to it and can melt. I've heard that they can be 'toughened up' to it buy starting with a lower dose for a week or two and then increasing it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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