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Need Suggestion (Sponge Filter)


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It's all about preference. You're not really doing any harm by running both(unless you have too much water movement), but if you really want to get rid of the sponge filter that will be okay.

 

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You could run both.

The thing is, most of the beneficial nitrifying bacteria would be on the sponge, so removing the sponge would remove most of the beneficial bacteria colony. You could place the seeded sponge inside the canister filter as "media" (both mechanical and biological).

If you were to remove the sponge (and not use it inside the canister filter) and solely run the canister filter, it would take some time for the nitrfying bacteria to repopulate (basically a mini to full cycle, depending actually how much bacteria was actually removed).

But with as little bioload the shrimps produce, you might not even have any noticeable issues. With the lower pH, more of the ammonia is ammonium (practically non-toxic). Nitrfying reproduce/double every 24 hours (roughly), though a bit slower mainly due to the lower pH. With a weekly water change, I doubt you would have any issues. So I'd say completely removing the sponge filter and just using the canister filter (with new media in it of course) should be able to be done without any real harm. The red root floaters alone can probably handle the bioload.

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2 minutes ago, ShrimpP said:

You could run both.

The thing is, most of the beneficial nitrifying bacteria would be on the sponge, so removing the sponge would remove most of the beneficial bacteria colony. You could place the seeded sponge inside the canister filter as "media" (both mechanical and biological).

If you were to remove the sponge (and not use it inside the canister filter) and solely run the canister filter, it would take some time for the nitrfying bacteria to repopulate (basically a mini to full cycle, depending actually how much bacteria was actually removed).

But with as little bioload the shrimps produce, you might not even have any noticeable issues. With the lower pH, more of the ammonia is ammonium (practically non-toxic). Nitrfying reproduce/double every 24 hours (roughly), though a bit slower mainly due to the lower pH. With a weekly water change, I doubt you would have any issues. So I'd say completely removing the sponge filter and just using the canister filter (with new media in it of course) should be able to be done without any real harm. The red root floaters alone can probably handle the bioload.

 

i hope its not a problem cox as u see the picture..i installed the Sponge into the 2211 intake tube as a filter guard, only thing i concerned is Oxygen, will it be enough?

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For dissolved oxygen, just create surface agitation. Doesn't need to be much in your case. Just keep the filter outlet below the water surface and aim it slightly towards the surface, just to get a decent rippled water surface. Play around with it's positioning (you can aim the outflow at a wall to circulate down to the substrate while also agitating the surface) so it's quiet enough for you, while still enough agitation to provide enough oxygen for the livestock. Check every so often to make sure the shrimp are getting enough oxygen (if they aren't they would be gathered at the water surface...or dead). 

CO2 is another thing, just don't over dose that either.

EDIT:  just read your response.

The sponge being used as a prefilter is perfectly fine! (even better than running just on a air pump, since more flow). If you want to keep the bacteria on the sponge alive though, when rinsing the sponge, you need to rinse/wring it out in tank water (or dechlorinated water), not tap water. I personally wouldn't be too concerned. The sponge filter as a intake prefilter will seed the other media, so you could eventually have colonized media inside the filter and you are free to wash the sponge with tap water.

In the pic, the surface looks calm/not agitated. If the shrimp are not gathering at the water surface or becoming inactive, I wouldn't worry too much. Personally I like to have plenty oxygen so I like to agitate the surface regardless. I should mention that Red Root Floaters don't like water to get on top of their leaves (they can melt/die), so do be gentle with the current so the floaters aren't getting splashed or kicked under the water surface.

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49 minutes ago, ShrimpP said:

For dissolved oxygen, just create surface agitation. Doesn't need to be much in your case. Just keep the filter outlet below the water surface and aim it slightly towards the surface, just to get a decent rippled water surface. Play around with it's positioning (you can aim the outflow at a wall to circulate down to the substrate while also agitating the surface) so it's quiet enough for you, while still enough agitation to provide enough oxygen for the livestock. Check every so often to make sure the shrimp are getting enough oxygen (if they aren't they would be gathered at the water surface...or dead). 

CO2 is another thing, just don't over dose that either.

EDIT:  just read your response.

The sponge being used as a prefilter is perfectly fine! (even better than running just on a air pump, since more flow). If you want to keep the bacteria on the sponge alive though, when rinsing the sponge, you need to rinse/wring it out in tank water (or dechlorinated water), not tap water. I personally wouldn't be too concerned. The sponge filter as a intake prefilter will seed the other media, so you could eventually have colonized media inside the filter and you are free to wash the sponge with tap water.

In the pic, the surface looks calm/not agitated. If the shrimp are not gathering at the water surface or becoming inactive, I wouldn't worry too much. Personally I like to have plenty oxygen so I like to agitate the surface regardless. I should mention that Red Root Floaters don't like water to get on top of their leaves (they can melt/die), so do be gentle with the current so the floaters aren't getting splashed or kicked under the water surface.

thanks for your idea and heres an update, i installed the spray bar down side 45 degrees , i guess this the only option because of the CO2 & the floaters

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On 3/29/2016 at 6:57 PM, benny0715 said:

Thanks, but will it lack of O2? Since my tank is in my sleeping room the sound from it is just annoying also for a small tank it took too much space...lol...

I have considered tapping the output on my Flulval 306 and putting a small open pipe in the middle then hooking it up to aquarium line. That should pull air like power heads do. With the tiny fish and lots of plants in a 55 I do not think that for me O2 is an issue yet. This will make the tank more noisy though it should be white noise that some people use to get to sleep. If bubbling splashing stream noises keep you awake this might be a bad plan.

With the new 60 I will be putting an air stone in the HOB and letting the air get oxygenated there before it dumps to the tank, rather than bubbles in the tank.

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2 minutes ago, Crackhead Johny said:

I have considered tapping the output on my Flulval 306 and putting a small open pipe in the middle then hooking it up to aquarium line. That should pull air like power heads do. With the tiny fish and lots of plants in a 55 I do not think that for me O2 is an issue yet. This will make the tank more noisy though it should be white noise that some people use to get to sleep. If bubbling splashing stream noises keep you awake this might be a bad plan.

With the new 60 I will be putting an air stone in the HOB and letting the air get oxygenated there before it dumps to the tank, rather than bubbles in the tank.

Have you considered NAG/Choice Bubblers?

 

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I am not familiar with those.

I have been out of the fish hobby for 20 years and am just getting back in to aquariums. The tank I'm currently setting up is a brand new 60 that I sort of bought because I was unable to find a 55 stand at a reasonable price. My next setup will be a 55 from the 1$/gal sale. After that will be something huge I shouldn't buy at this year's black friday sale.

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