christinenha Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 I ripped out everything plastic in my Fluval Chi and am looking to make it into a new planted home for my Opae'Ula tank. There really isn't too much information on brackish water set-ups online. There are plenty of articles that list a number of freshwater species that can tolerate brackish water environments, but not too much information on how to acclimate plants from freshwater to brackish water. I'm going to grab some of my brackish-tolerant plants from my Neon Yellow tank (dwarf sag, anacharis, water sprite, java moss) and try the drip acclimation method used for aquatic animals at about 1 drip per second until the water quadruples, and then I will plant them in my tank with my Opae'Ula. I will record how they do in the next few weeks. In the meantime, here's what the bare tank looks like before the transition: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countryboy12484 Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Honestly you would probably be ok to just chunk them in there.. Plants are tougher than you think christinenha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elo500 Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Try to find some bladderwort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christinenha Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Honestly you would probably be ok to just chunk them in there.. Plants are tougher than you think I've done this with the moss balls, and they've been doing great. But there are a lot of instances I've read where people would just stick their plants into a brackish water tank, and they end up dying from shock within days or weeks. It makes sense because the rapid increase in salt concentration can force water out of the plant's cells, causing it to become dehydrated and die. I'd rather be safe than sorry with these other plants. I'd hate to see them die off. -.- Try to find some bladderwort Isn't this a carnivorous plant? Opae'Ula reach a maximum size of about 1 cm, and their larvae are miniscule. Would they be safe with these shrimp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chibikaie Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 I have Java fern plantlets that could theoretically make the transition if you're interested. I tried to transition them myself, but I think I didn't give them enough light or nutrients, and they did not thrive. Reading about these guys is actually what convinced me that I could have invertebrates. Never managed to get a tank together for them, though. (My aquatics do much better if I can get plants growing in their setups. Without them, I didn't trust myself to maintain them properly.) christinenha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquariumlover10 Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Here is a link to another forum I'm on, it has aton of links on info for brackish tank, gthe lady tha posted it is setting a bw up and I am pretty sure she is having opaes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquariumlover10 Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Sorry, heres the link. http://www.aquaticenthusiasts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=185 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christinenha Posted November 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 I have Java fern plantlets that could theoretically make the transition if you're interested. I tried to transition them myself, but I think I didn't give them enough light or nutrients, and they did not thrive. Reading about these guys is actually what convinced me that I could have invertebrates. Never managed to get a tank together for them, though. (My aquatics do much better if I can get plants growing in their setups. Without them, I didn't trust myself to maintain them properly.) Thank you so much for the offer! I think I'm going to try my LFS first because I'm afraid of shipping stress on plants. I've never had plants shipped before, and I'm concerned that the stress from shipping as well as the stress of being acclimated to a brackish water tank may just be too much at once. I just added the plants from my freshwater tank yesterday, and they seem to be doing fine for now. I probably won't know for another few days or weeks if they are doing okay. I had purchased some Flourish Excel in the hopes that it will help them do better in the brackish tank. =) Sorry, heres the link. http://www.aquaticenthusiasts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=185 Thanks for the link! I've just started to browse a couple of these, and it looks like Anubias, Java Fern, and Hairgrass look like good bets. I will definitely add some Java fern as a background plant, but I'm not too sure about the Hairgrass since I've already got Dwarf Sag in there, but if the Dwarf Sag doesn't work out, I'll try out the Hairgrass. ^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christinenha Posted November 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Oh gosh, since I've been so diligent about testing water parameters on my freshwater tank every two days since I set up the tank, I figured I needed to start testing the water in my brackish tank too. Because Opae'Ula are so hardy, I've been doing 50% water changes every 4-6 months, never testing the water once. The last water change I did was on Nov. 1 after moving to my new place, and the one before that was probably around June-ish. Now that I know more about this tank business and how water parameters can affect livestock, I'm a little ashamed of myself and terrified for my shrimp. Ammonia and nitrites were at 0.25 ppm, and the nitrate readings were off the charts - quite literally. It instantly turned a deep red as soon as I shook the test tube, so I panicked and did a 75% water change to kind of get a grasp on where the tank was at previously. I tested the water again about half an hour after the water change to give the water some time to mix properly, and it tested around 80 ppm. If 1/4 of the water left was at 80 ppm, that means that it was at 320 ppm before the water change. And before the Nov. 1 water change, it was probably upwards toward 640 ppm. WTF? (Maybe I'm doing my calculations wrong, but from my understanding, the amount of nitrates removed from the water is based on the amount of water that is removed.) I tested the new water prior to pouring it into the tank to make sure that the test kit was working correctly (and that I was using it correctly, although I've never had an issue testing the freshwater tank) and the nitrate readings for the new water was at 0 ppm. I'm amazed that they have survived this long with that level of nitrates. I really hate myself for not paying attention to this sooner and am going to do another 50% water change in a couple of days to get the nitrates down to a manageable level. I'll post another update soon. -.- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soothing Shrimp Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 A lot of shrimp keeping is learning not only about keeping, but about ourselves and how we can do things better. When we don't "grow", our hobby "life" is over. Sounds like you are still very healthy. christinenha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chibikaie Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 These shrimp are EXTREMELY hardy. That's how they survive being sold in conditions that would kill many other aquatics. I am sure they will appreciate the clean water going forward, though! Java ferns are super duper tough. I've left them in half empty tanks with no light for weeks/months, then rinsed them off and chucked them into other tanks - and sure, lost a few leaves, but they were fine. christinenha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christinenha Posted November 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 Aaaaand it's planted! =D [bacopa - Pennywort - Anacharis - Water Sprite - Java Fern - Java Moss - Dwarf Sag - Moss Balls] Sorry. Picture quality is awful because camera is awful. =( eozen81 and Desireenfh 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquariumlover10 Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 Looks awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christinenha Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 The leaves of the dwarf sag and anacharis are starting to become transparent. Does this mean they are dying? =( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquariumlover10 Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Yes and no, they will probaly die off they grown back because of new salinity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christinenha Posted December 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 It's been awhile since I've updated on this tank, so here it is: I seem to have a ton of brown algae and hair algae. I can physically take these out, but they just come back. How do I get rid of them once and for all? The hair algae is all over the moss balls and java moss. There is also brown algae covering many of the pennywort leaves. Should I pull them out?? There are also a bunch of bubbles stuck on some of those algae covered leaves. They don't float to the top and are really just stuck there. The good thing is there is some new growth to this pennywort, so it looks like it may survive in brackish water. I've also got some growth on the water sprite. The old leaves are melting away, but new leaves have sprouted and are thriving. I've also got some new growth on the dwarf sag and a new dwarf sag runner growing slowly but surely. There is new growth on one strand of anacharis as well, but the other anacharis are completely covered in brown stuff. My hermit crab didn't make it, but my shrimp are doing okay. What does this mean for my tank? Should I pull out the algae infested leaves or the entire plant? I don't really have too many brackish water tanks to compare to. =\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquariumlover10 Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Hummm, the only thing I know for algae control is peroxide, put it can kill inverts, and it kills marimo moss balls(well any thing for algae will because they are algae) and it will kill java moss, so if I was u I would take l water out, and take shrimp out and put in another small tank with tank water and then while draining tank aiphon the sub really good, and then trash all plants, soak decor and rocks in peroxide(not wood) and then replace all filter cartridges, this should probaly get rid of it, I know its sounds like what u would do as a last resort but I am 90% sjre it will get rid of itm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve R. Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 I agree with aquariumlover10. I would also start the tank new. For new planted tanks too much lighting and too few plants can promote algae growth. Also the high nitrate levels can be bad. But in general, nutrient imbalances can cause excessive algae growth. Also very low nitrate and phosphate levels can cause algae growth. Do you need an active substrate, it looks like you are using ADA amazonia. This substrate not only reduces the pH but also absorbs all the phosphates. Zero phosphate levels caused some algae problems in my planted tanks previously. You can also soak all plastic stuff and rocks in household bleach. Initially, I would have the lighting on only 5-6 hours and later 10 hours maximally if you have intensive lighting. Make sure you have some micronutrients in your tank too. I had marimo moss balls previously. They are pretty, but now I had these algae because they contaminated a lot of my plants and it was so tough to get rid of them. Having a nice planted tank and keeping shrimps is challenging, it takes quite some experience, but it seems that you are getting there. Good luck with your tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christinenha Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Starting the tank new would be difficult with the brackish set-up considering the plants have to be slowly acclimated to these conditions. I just don't want to go that route until I really have to - like aquariumlover10 said "as a last resort." I had the light on 12 hours a day and reduced it down to 8 hours a day, scrubbed the algae off the plants, and everything looks to be doing okay now. I am doing water changes twice a week and am currently using Fluval Stratum as my substrate. (I had extra from my Neon Yellow tank. The buffering capacity isn't as intense as ADA Amazonia, which is good because I need the pH to be around 7.5-8.5.) I have also removed the marimo moss balls because the hair algae growing on them was out of control. I'll post a few pics soon-ish. Thanks for the tips! ^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquariumlover10 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 Sounds like its doing better, hopefuly it works out in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elo500 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 What is the current ph? The might keep it below 7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christinenha Posted December 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 7.5 right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquariumlover10 Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Updates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyeGuy411 Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Anytime I set up a new tank if I add plants right away while cycling I always start with low light like mosses. While cycling I barely have the light on if at all this really helps to control nuisance algae growth. Most low light plants do very well with little to no tank lighting for short periods of time. Then once the tank is staring to get stable about 4 weeks, add in other plants or higher light plants. I slowly increase the time the lights are on for the next month. The last tank I set up I really stuck to this and had almost no nuisance algae growth. I had a little hair algae growing but when I switched the water from tap water just for cycling to remineralized RO and dropped the pH from 7.6 to 6.4 overnight the hair algae turned brown and died almost instantly. I was actually quite amazed. BTW Christineha I watched one of your youtube videos on your channel around thanksgiving showing this brackish tank. I really like your set ups. Hope you get a handle on this tank the opaes are really cute. christinenha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christinenha Posted December 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 It's been quite some time since my last update, so here's what's going on. I will be completely redoing this tank.... again. Ugh. I didn't want to have to go that route, but it looks like it's the only way. Nitrates are spiking because so many leaves are dying out from getting covered in brown debris. I'm going to replace the Fluval Stratum substrate with coral sand and rinse everything under tap water. Then I'm going to get as much of that hair algae off as possible, and if I can't, then the plants infected will have to be tossed. But anyway, here is what the tank looks like right now. The anacharis looks okay.... =P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.