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Ways to combat glass Algea?


NeMox69x
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I'm looking for more of a permanent solution than a magfloat. It gets the job done along with a toothbrush but I want to irradicate the stuff for good. I know it's probably too much light for plant load but that doesn't mean I can throw more plants in there! Would a carpet of ug or dwarf baby tears take off in a high light low tech tank? Or should I go with something else? Currently have two species of bucephalandra, mini Pellia and salvania. It is a Taiwan bee tank.

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Ottos or nerite snails... or floating plants to suck up nutrients and block some light.

 

 

Baby tears doesnt do well without Co2.   Ive managed to carpet a tank dosing excel, but id be wary of excel with TBs.   Dont know much about UG

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I find that the key to combating algae is adding healthy established plants into the tank. 

 

One of my tanks had green dust and spot algae. I added one of my huge fissdens fontanus on rock into the tank. Within 2 weeks, the algae on the wall was all gone. The fissiden still lush green and algae free.

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Another +1 for nerites. And they're a pleasing addition to the aquarium, visually.

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I'm not really a fan of merited bc they leave those white eggs EVERYWHERE. I might go the more plants route and I have floaters..(salvania). I might look into ug and moss

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I've also kept hillstream and Borneo loaches with my shrimp and never had a problem with them eating my babies. They'll eat some algae and would also clean up nerite eggs, so you could make them a tag team. On a semi-unrelated-yet-still-somewhat-relevant note, the loaches won't eradicate a planaria problem, but they'll prevent it and keep the flat worm population at bay! And they're some of my favorite fish for their look!

Also maybe SAE, ABN pleco, and I think someone already said otos. They're not as pretty as hillstream/borneo loaches, but they'll do the trick too!

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The best solution in my opinion is to raise your light about 4-6" if possible. The problem sounds to be derived from excess lighting. If you are not fertilizing or have a CO2 system then the one property out of balance is light. Try this solution and it should fix or at the very least reduce your problems.

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I might pick up an Otto or two today. I'm gonna give detAqauriums suggestion a try because I've read that several times. Just have to find a way. I'm already using the leg mounts for the finnex...

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I've also kept hillstream and Borneo loaches with my shrimp and never had a problem with them eating my babies. They'll eat some algae and would also clean up nerite eggs, so you could make them a tag team. On a semi-unrelated-yet-still-somewhat-relevant note, the loaches won't eradicate a planaria problem, but they'll prevent it and keep the flat worm population at bay! And they're some of my favorite fish for their look!

Also maybe SAE, ABN pleco, and I think someone already said otos. They're not as pretty as hillstream/borneo loaches, but they'll do the trick too!

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I don't want to hijack this thread, but I'm wondering if you know if yoyo loaches are shrimp safe. We have a couple of them but are new to loaches.

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I don't want to hijack this thread, but I'm wondering if you know if yoyo loaches are shrimp safe. We have a couple of them but are new to loaches.

I would NOT keep them with shrimp.

The general rule of thumb is: if their mouths can fit the shrimp inside, they'll probably try.

I had a pair of gold Burmese botias in a community tank, ended up killing like 3-5 fully grown (2"+) macrobrachium right in front of me. Having said that, they're very cool fish, with very fun personalities!

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Thank you. I didn't thino they were compatible but didn't know any loaches were.

Definitely no to yoyos or any other Botia loaches. Even clown loaches. I've heard sumo loaches if they are smaller as well as baby khulis will handle detritus worms, but you gotta take em out after they start to get big or they WILL eat shrimplets. But I think the smaller hillstream varieties (smallest I know of is the Borneo sucker/loach). They have tiny little mouths for scraping up detritus and algae. And they're a blast to watch scoot around cleaning the glass. They just need a high D.O., so make sure to drop in an extra airstone.

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I might pick up an Otto or two today. I'm gonna give detAqauriums suggestion a try because I've read that several times. Just have to find a way. I'm already using the leg mounts for the finnex...

 

 

I don't know how large your tank is, but Ottos are schooling fish and will be happiest with a school of 5+, if you have room for them.

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It's a 8.6 gallon.. I use to keep them in a shook of 3 in a 5 gallon (obviously outgrew it) but that worked well. My local Petco didn't have any so I am just gonna have to clean it for now..

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7 otos polished my 55 in a few days.

Be prepared to blanch spinach and feed frozen zucchini when your algae is gone (I blanch it then sink it to the bottom on a bulldog clip on a string, so I can pull it out in a day and replace with a new batch). If you buy 5 I would guess your tank will be clean by the next day. 1 otto cleaned a really coated fluval spec 3 in 2-3 days and then it went back to the 55.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Have kids and a magnet, mine cleans mine just because It's there lol. I only clean my front, it's good for them to have it

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I might pick up an Otto or two today. I'm gonna give detAqauriums suggestion a try because I've read that several times. Just have to find a way. I'm already using the leg mounts for the finnex...

Elevateshrimp.com sells taller legs for finnex. I think Mayphly told me he uses them.  http://www.elevateshrimp.com/collections/plant-holders/products/oem-finnex-light-risers-fits-planted-ray2-fugeray-etc

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