NeMox69x Posted February 13, 2016 Report Posted February 13, 2016 I'm looking for more of a permanent solution than a magfloat. It gets the job done along with a toothbrush but I want to irradicate the stuff for good. I know it's probably too much light for plant load but that doesn't mean I can throw more plants in there! Would a carpet of ug or dwarf baby tears take off in a high light low tech tank? Or should I go with something else? Currently have two species of bucephalandra, mini Pellia and salvania. It is a Taiwan bee tank. Quote
Jynn Posted February 13, 2016 Report Posted February 13, 2016 Ottos or nerite snails... or floating plants to suck up nutrients and block some light. Baby tears doesnt do well without Co2. Ive managed to carpet a tank dosing excel, but id be wary of excel with TBs. Dont know much about UG svetilda 1 Quote
EricM Posted February 13, 2016 Report Posted February 13, 2016 you can get one of those razor blade on stick cleaner things. they work really great. but really need to find why you are getting so much algae. its a sign of excessive nutrients in your water. Quote
corbie Posted February 13, 2016 Report Posted February 13, 2016 +1 for nerites. They don't mess around. Quote
OMG Aquatics Posted February 13, 2016 Report Posted February 13, 2016 I find that the key to combating algae is adding healthy established plants into the tank. One of my tanks had green dust and spot algae. I added one of my huge fissdens fontanus on rock into the tank. Within 2 weeks, the algae on the wall was all gone. The fissiden still lush green and algae free. h4n and EricM 2 Quote
Mr. F Posted February 13, 2016 Report Posted February 13, 2016 Another +1 for nerites. And they're a pleasing addition to the aquarium, visually. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
NeMox69x Posted February 13, 2016 Author Report Posted February 13, 2016 I'm not really a fan of merited bc they leave those white eggs EVERYWHERE. I might go the more plants route and I have floaters..(salvania). I might look into ug and moss Quote
Mr. F Posted February 14, 2016 Report Posted February 14, 2016 I've also kept hillstream and Borneo loaches with my shrimp and never had a problem with them eating my babies. They'll eat some algae and would also clean up nerite eggs, so you could make them a tag team. On a semi-unrelated-yet-still-somewhat-relevant note, the loaches won't eradicate a planaria problem, but they'll prevent it and keep the flat worm population at bay! And they're some of my favorite fish for their look! Also maybe SAE, ABN pleco, and I think someone already said otos. They're not as pretty as hillstream/borneo loaches, but they'll do the trick too! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
DETAquarium Posted February 14, 2016 Report Posted February 14, 2016 The best solution in my opinion is to raise your light about 4-6" if possible. The problem sounds to be derived from excess lighting. If you are not fertilizing or have a CO2 system then the one property out of balance is light. Try this solution and it should fix or at the very least reduce your problems. Fishprinceofca 1 Quote
NeMox69x Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Posted February 14, 2016 I might pick up an Otto or two today. I'm gonna give detAqauriums suggestion a try because I've read that several times. Just have to find a way. I'm already using the leg mounts for the finnex... Quote
Wygglz Posted February 14, 2016 Report Posted February 14, 2016 I've also kept hillstream and Borneo loaches with my shrimp and never had a problem with them eating my babies. They'll eat some algae and would also clean up nerite eggs, so you could make them a tag team. On a semi-unrelated-yet-still-somewhat-relevant note, the loaches won't eradicate a planaria problem, but they'll prevent it and keep the flat worm population at bay! And they're some of my favorite fish for their look! Also maybe SAE, ABN pleco, and I think someone already said otos. They're not as pretty as hillstream/borneo loaches, but they'll do the trick too! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I don't want to hijack this thread, but I'm wondering if you know if yoyo loaches are shrimp safe. We have a couple of them but are new to loaches. Quote
Mr. F Posted February 14, 2016 Report Posted February 14, 2016 I don't want to hijack this thread, but I'm wondering if you know if yoyo loaches are shrimp safe. We have a couple of them but are new to loaches.I would NOT keep them with shrimp. The general rule of thumb is: if their mouths can fit the shrimp inside, they'll probably try. I had a pair of gold Burmese botias in a community tank, ended up killing like 3-5 fully grown (2"+) macrobrachium right in front of me. Having said that, they're very cool fish, with very fun personalities! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Wygglz 1 Quote
Wygglz Posted February 14, 2016 Report Posted February 14, 2016 Thank you. I didn't thino they were compatible but didn't know any loaches were. Mr. F 1 Quote
Soothing Shrimp Posted February 14, 2016 Report Posted February 14, 2016 General rule of thumb shrimpers usually use is ottos are the only fish shrimp safe. Shrimp may be bigger than tetras for instance, but it won't stop tetras from biting off body parts or harassing shrimp to death. Mr. F and Wygglz 2 Quote
Mr. F Posted February 14, 2016 Report Posted February 14, 2016 Thank you. I didn't thino they were compatible but didn't know any loaches were.Definitely no to yoyos or any other Botia loaches. Even clown loaches. I've heard sumo loaches if they are smaller as well as baby khulis will handle detritus worms, but you gotta take em out after they start to get big or they WILL eat shrimplets. But I think the smaller hillstream varieties (smallest I know of is the Borneo sucker/loach). They have tiny little mouths for scraping up detritus and algae. And they're a blast to watch scoot around cleaning the glass. They just need a high D.O., so make sure to drop in an extra airstone.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Wygglz 1 Quote
Jynn Posted February 14, 2016 Report Posted February 14, 2016 I might pick up an Otto or two today. I'm gonna give detAqauriums suggestion a try because I've read that several times. Just have to find a way. I'm already using the leg mounts for the finnex... I don't know how large your tank is, but Ottos are schooling fish and will be happiest with a school of 5+, if you have room for them. Quote
NeMox69x Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Posted February 15, 2016 It's a 8.6 gallon.. I use to keep them in a shook of 3 in a 5 gallon (obviously outgrew it) but that worked well. My local Petco didn't have any so I am just gonna have to clean it for now.. Quote
Crackhead Johny Posted February 16, 2016 Report Posted February 16, 2016 7 otos polished my 55 in a few days. Be prepared to blanch spinach and feed frozen zucchini when your algae is gone (I blanch it then sink it to the bottom on a bulldog clip on a string, so I can pull it out in a day and replace with a new batch). If you buy 5 I would guess your tank will be clean by the next day. 1 otto cleaned a really coated fluval spec 3 in 2-3 days and then it went back to the 55. Quote
californiashrimp Posted February 17, 2016 Report Posted February 17, 2016 Problem with nerites is they can leave little white eggs all over EVERYTHING that are almost impossible to get off. I suggest ottocinclus. Quote
ctaylor3737 Posted March 15, 2016 Report Posted March 15, 2016 Have kids and a magnet, mine cleans mine just because It's there lol. I only clean my front, it's good for them to have it Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote
Vpier Posted March 17, 2016 Report Posted March 17, 2016 I might pick up an Otto or two today. I'm gonna give detAqauriums suggestion a try because I've read that several times. Just have to find a way. I'm already using the leg mounts for the finnex... Elevateshrimp.com sells taller legs for finnex. I think Mayphly told me he uses them. http://www.elevateshrimp.com/collections/plant-holders/products/oem-finnex-light-risers-fits-planted-ray2-fugeray-etc Quote
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